Hi Mark, thanks for the reply!
Update 1:
The gas cap still leaks, but the leak is much slower. This is what I've done:
I removed the "not bad" cork gasket and replaced it with a foam gasket from a plumber's gasket kit. The foam gasket was a close fit, but not perfect. It leaked.
Then I stacked the old cork gasket on top of the foam gasket. Still leaked.
Then I removed both gaskets and re-installed only the old cork gasket and snugged it good.
The vent circuit is free flowing in both directions. I learned on this forum that the duckbill is rubber (not metal) and it melts away. That explains the goo I blew out. So my vent circuit is wide open right now.
This is my cap:
I cut a 3/8" long piece of sewing machine oil wick and pushed it into the brass stem where the duckbill goes. This oil wick is like thick felt string, it comes in 3 sizes, I used the smallest size which is about 1/8" diameter. Compressed air can still get through the wick, and fuel can too, but only very slowly.
End result - I still have a gas cap leak, but it is a very slow leak. No more running gas, just a thin film of spreading gas.
To fix it right, I need a new gasket and a duckbill and maybe a spring.
Update 2:
I broke the fuel hose off at the carb nipple. It broke too easy. Old hose.
I used .425" OD pvc hose to replace it. Lucky tight fit through the hole in tank wall and on carb nipple. I smeared Yamabond #4 on the pass-thru section and cured overnight. It doesn't leak.
The tank end of the hose has a small metal NAPA full filter stabbed into it.
#3 - The old oil plate gasket barely leaks, a slow film. I'll use sealant once I get the oiler working. The o-ring under the plate screw does not leak.
The auto oiler still does not work. I need to pull the plate and back the adjuster screw out and try it again.
#4 - The saw runs.
Idle is good.
The LO screw is good but not perfect yet. Still a slight bog in the middle sometimes.
The HI screw is about perfect, it 4-strokes when you lift it out of a deep cut.
The saw doesn't smoke so my oiler gasket apparently is not leaking oil into the motor.
#5 - My biggest current problem is the saw only runs on the HI circuit for 8 seconds, then it dies.
Not bogs. Starves and dies at WOT as though you hit the kill switch.
I either have an air leak at WOT, or a needle-height problem, or a carb gasket problem where the lower gasket doesn't suck enough fuel to keep up, or something else.
Is there a "most common cause" for these old saws to cut out at WOT in the middle of a good strong cut?
I think my next steps will be to start buying stuff, like a carb kit, fuel hose, tank gasket, oil plate gasket.
Thoughts?
Thanks!
This the saw all cleaned up:
Update 1:
The gas cap still leaks, but the leak is much slower. This is what I've done:
I removed the "not bad" cork gasket and replaced it with a foam gasket from a plumber's gasket kit. The foam gasket was a close fit, but not perfect. It leaked.
Then I stacked the old cork gasket on top of the foam gasket. Still leaked.
Then I removed both gaskets and re-installed only the old cork gasket and snugged it good.
The vent circuit is free flowing in both directions. I learned on this forum that the duckbill is rubber (not metal) and it melts away. That explains the goo I blew out. So my vent circuit is wide open right now.
This is my cap:
I cut a 3/8" long piece of sewing machine oil wick and pushed it into the brass stem where the duckbill goes. This oil wick is like thick felt string, it comes in 3 sizes, I used the smallest size which is about 1/8" diameter. Compressed air can still get through the wick, and fuel can too, but only very slowly.
End result - I still have a gas cap leak, but it is a very slow leak. No more running gas, just a thin film of spreading gas.
To fix it right, I need a new gasket and a duckbill and maybe a spring.
Update 2:
I broke the fuel hose off at the carb nipple. It broke too easy. Old hose.
I used .425" OD pvc hose to replace it. Lucky tight fit through the hole in tank wall and on carb nipple. I smeared Yamabond #4 on the pass-thru section and cured overnight. It doesn't leak.
The tank end of the hose has a small metal NAPA full filter stabbed into it.
#3 - The old oil plate gasket barely leaks, a slow film. I'll use sealant once I get the oiler working. The o-ring under the plate screw does not leak.
The auto oiler still does not work. I need to pull the plate and back the adjuster screw out and try it again.
#4 - The saw runs.
Idle is good.
The LO screw is good but not perfect yet. Still a slight bog in the middle sometimes.
The HI screw is about perfect, it 4-strokes when you lift it out of a deep cut.
The saw doesn't smoke so my oiler gasket apparently is not leaking oil into the motor.
#5 - My biggest current problem is the saw only runs on the HI circuit for 8 seconds, then it dies.
Not bogs. Starves and dies at WOT as though you hit the kill switch.
I either have an air leak at WOT, or a needle-height problem, or a carb gasket problem where the lower gasket doesn't suck enough fuel to keep up, or something else.
Is there a "most common cause" for these old saws to cut out at WOT in the middle of a good strong cut?
I think my next steps will be to start buying stuff, like a carb kit, fuel hose, tank gasket, oil plate gasket.
Thoughts?
Thanks!
This the saw all cleaned up:
