McCulloch Chain Saws

[sawfun]

Now so far the biggest challenge with the cp & sp 125g conversion is bending the oil pump push rod around the intake boot & rear AV mount. It takes a lot of bending & rebending. Using a smaller coat hanger rod will not work as it is smaller and too flexible. Sorry for the poor lighting but the shop lights are recently giving me troubles of their own.

 

[sawfun]

And here is the front mount which has to be moddified and fabricated in order to us the front AV mount. Instead of using the cp mount underneath, I will upgrade to the sp style AV mount which will require more fabrication than if I had stayed with the cp mount.

 

[sawfun]

I will post pictures of the fuel line solution when I get it figured out. Right now I am thinking of 1/4" copper or steel brake line tubbing bent at a 120 degree angle if I can manage that. If the tank bulkhead has enough material, I will use an 1/8 tap where the bulkhead is if there is enough material. If I can make this work, I will have 1/4 fuel line all the way to the carb.

 

[heimannm]

What did you do about the rear AV mount since the 101 block does not have those mounting holes available?

Mark

 

[heimannm]

A couple weeks ago I picked up a ProMac 55 covered in a thick layer of grease/dirt. I pulled it all apart, cleaned off all the gunk and I'm working on putting it back togeather.
The previous owner had tried installing a solid state ignition chip in place of the condenser but had butchered all of the wiring and none of the manuals seem to have a schematic.
Can someone give me a list of the wires in one of these with each of thier termination point?
My plan is to use some high quality copper wire and make new ones.

The condenser and primary ignition lead connect to the screw coming out of the points box. The primary lead terminates at the ignition coil on the same terminal as the stop wire. The opposite terminal on the coil goes to ground. The ground connection is not shown in the drawing below.




Mark

 

[heimannm]

Jeff - Joey used some automotive type trim adhesive tape, I don't remember the specific number or type.

Ted (Warped5) had one of the saws repaired that way, perhaps he will pipe in.

Sometimes just leaving the tanks filled with fuel for a while will allow the cork gasket to swell up and stop leaking.

Mark

 

[sawfun]

For the rear mount on a 101, you can either drill and tap the fins on the head, weld a piece to them and drill & tap, or cheap out like I did and just anchor to the sheet metal cylinder cover. I got a 101b that a dealer had done this way so while not ideal it will work. I did this with my other 101 which uses the SDC 20 carb and it worked fine. I ran that saw with a 36" bar a good bit and a 50" bar buried in Doug Fir for several hard cuts and have seen to issues with the shroud at all. The AV worked just fine. This one with the BDC however has a lot of the rear AV mount cut away in order to sandwich the carb in between the two sides of it.
Also most of the shroud must be cut away for the bottom of the carb to fit as well as either trimming the bottom of the carb (left side) and one allen bolt or trimming some fins. I chose to trim the carb as it is $50 to replace where the 101 blocks are worth money when unmolested as this one is.
I will try to post some pictures of this as well. Wish I still had my mill, but this is being done with an 1/4" carbide bit and air die grinder.

 

[Zack_M]

Awesome thank you!
I'll be putting this to good use once I get a new coil.

McCulloch 200
ProMac 700
ProMac 55
Stihl MS250
Husky 235

 

[Zack_M]

The condenser and primary ignition lead connect to the screw coming out of the points box. The primary lead terminates at the ignition coil on the same terminal as the stop wire. The opposite terminal on the coil goes to ground. The ground connection is not shown in the drawing below.


View attachment 394906

Mark

Awesome. As soon as I get a new coil, I figured out the one I have is bad, I'll be putting this to good use.

Now to find oversized piston and rings for my 700.

Awesome thank you!
I'll be putting this to good use once I get a new coil.

McCulloch 200
ProMac 700
ProMac 55
Stihl MS250
Husky 235

McCulloch 200
ProMac 700
ProMac 55
Stihl MS250
Husky 235

 

[jeff76]

Jeff - Joey used some automotive type trim adhesive tape, I don't remember the specific number or type.

Ted (Warped5) had one of the saws repaired that way, perhaps he will pipe in.

Sometimes just leaving the tanks filled with fuel for a while will allow the cork gasket to swell up and stop leaking.

Mark

Thanks for the reply mark. I will try leaving them filled with gas first as I hadn't thought about it swelling the cork. The saws in question had been sitting with no gas for quite some time as I usually leave them empty if possible. Would be great if that does the trick. I was thinking Joey used some sort of 3m product but couldn't remember for sure.

Jeff

 

[sawfun]

Here is the picture of the rear 101 mount cut away and the shroud cutout and dimpled in where the fuel line must go. Its kinda a shame as I once had the shroud painted and stickered like new, oh well, this saw will get scratched up and run.

 

[sawfun]

Here is the copper tubing that is bent to sort of clear the shroud and will work. I sure wish the fuel port was in a friendlier location on those BDC's for this angled application.

 

[sawfun]

Finally, are a couple of bulkhead solutions to a larger fuel line size. I would I like to run
1/8" line all the way to the carb as the factory 125 line gets much smaller than that. I can drill and tap a 1/4" pipe thread as the hole is too big for 1/8" pipe thread, or cut off the ends of a Mac factory fuel line and drill out the rubber for a double ended connector. This way l have a sealed makeshift bulkhead
would require no metal modification and should seal fine. I like the second option a lot more and will try that.

 

[Zack_M]

Gentlemen

I pulled my PM700 apart and found scoring on the cylinder and piston, weak rings and grinding in the crank bearings.
I contacted Bill at Fayetteville Equipment and found out McCulloch never made oversized pistons/rings for these.
I really would like to put this one back together because all of the body pieces, to include enamel, are in really good shape.
I was thinking about having the cylinder bored out and using a piston from a different model but have no idea which models parts can be swapped between.
Based solely on bore size and stroke length an oversize piston/rings from a CP70, a factory D30 or factory 1-63 should dimensionally fit but I can’t find any detailed information on connecting rod dimensions or bearings.
Does anyone know if, and from what, I could transplant parts?

 

[awol]

They didn't make oversize pistons for the pm700, because it has a plated cylinder and cannot be bored. I think the std cp70 piston will work in your 700, but not positive.

 

[Guido Salvage]

This dirty PM60 bow saw arrived in the mail today.

 

[CamT]

New guy here with a pretty decent condition G-70 I picked up last week. Took a little while to ID, as all the decals/ badging were worn away, but there was a small metal tag under the air filter in the box... Anyway, I figured out what it was, and did some reading on these pages(not a ton in regards to the G-70), as well as Acres site.
What I know:
1. It's a G-70
2. It's a strong runner
3. It's got the gear reduction installed, set to run .404, which is nice.
What I don't know:
1. What "niche" this saw fits into, as in, what type of work was this saw "geared" toward(see what I did there?)?
2. As far as "convertible" goes... Well, I don't know diddly about that... I know that there were convertible Homelites, but they were sold as direct drive, with optional gear boxes(from what I understand, which isn't much.). It would appear that the G-70 came as a gear drive and could be converted to direct. What would be involved, parts-wise, in said conversion? Are the necessary parts unobtainium? I don't necessarily want to convert the saw, but as an old machine junkie, I want to know as much as possible and have as much as possible in regards to my tools. It's sporting a McCulloch 18" bar with appropriate mounting for gear drive and a fairly nice .404 semi skip comp chain. I'm kinda leaning toward a 28" hardnose, maybe .063? It's going to be used for processing logs into turning and carving stock, as well as occasional small capacity slabbing. I guess i need to find a manual or IPL and go from there. For now, I just like listening to the animal growl.
So, I guess this is an intro/ fishing for info post. Any and all thoughts, facts, opinions or insults are very welcome. Thanks!

Cam

P.S.: I will grab some flicks tomorrow. First day off work since I got the sucker.

 

[fossil]

New guy here with a pretty decent condition G-70 I picked up last week. Took a little while to ID, as all the decals/ badging were worn away, but there was a small metal tag under the air filter in the box... Anyway, I figured out what it was, and did some reading on these pages(not a ton in regards to the G-70), as well as Acres site.
What I know:
1. It's a G-70
2. It's a strong runner
3. It's got the gear reduction installed, set to run .404, which is nice.
What I don't know:
1. What "niche" this saw fits into, as in, what type of work was this saw "geared" toward(see what I did there?)?
2. As far as "convertible" goes... Well, I don't know diddly about that... I know that there were convertible Homelites, but they were sold as direct drive, with optional gear boxes(from what I understand, which isn't much.). It would appear that the G-70 came as a gear drive and could be converted to direct. What would be involved, parts-wise, in said conversion? Are the necessary parts unobtainium? I don't necessarily want to convert the saw, but as an old machine junkie, I want to know as much as possible and have as much as possible in regards to my tools. It's sporting a McCulloch 18" bar with appropriate mounting for gear drive and a fairly nice .404 semi skip comp chain. I'm kinda leaning toward a 28" hardnose, maybe .063? It's going to be used for processing logs into turning and carving stock, as well as occasional small capacity slabbing. I guess i need to find a manual or IPL and go from there. For now, I just like listening to the animal growl.
So, I guess this is an intro/ fishing for info post. Any and all thoughts, facts, opinions or insults are very welcome. Thanks!

Cam

P.S.: I will grab some flicks tomorrow. First day off work since I got the sucker.[/QUOTE

Rare saw

 

[mad murdock]

Welcome Cam. I have never played with a geared saw, so I won't be much help. Mark H would be one of the more "in the know" guys about all things Mac, and has a pretty respectable collection of saws to boot. Would like to see some pics of the beast or a video of it running.

 

[heimannm]

The 10 Series G saws were not intended to be converted to direct drive so there is no easy change over available. The direct drive 10 Series saws have the automatic oil pump in the oil tank at the front of the saw. The gear drive saws have a unique oil tank/crankcase that only works with the gear box, the automatic oil pump is driven off the output shaft in the gearbox. On the direct drive saws, the crankcase/oil tank is also the mounting point for the bar. On the gear drive saws the bar mounts to the gearbox. I won't say it can't be done, but it would not be easy and would require a lot of custom fabrication to make it work.

The G70 and other 10 Series gear drive saws were normally aimed at pulp wood cutters. I think because so much pulp wood was cut with bow bars, the extra pull was often appreciated.

If you are interested in trading the G70 for an equivalent direct drive 10 Series like a 7-10 or PM700 I think I could arrange something. I think you might enjoy the higher chain speed for blocking and milling. You might consider using 3/8 LP if you plan to do much milling as the smaller cutters are frequently employed for milling. I can set you up with a NOS 28" hardnose bar but I will have to check to see what gauge it is. A sprocket nose bar would be friendlier for milling though.

Mark