McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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Not sure why blasting is not recommended...I do hit them with compressed air then wash down with clean solvent, brake cleaner, or carburetor cleaner before painting. I hit them with some Martin Senour self etching primer then painted with Krylon from a rattle can. First I coated them with Sun Yellow but thought it was too orange (very good match to the later saws like the PM700 and PM800, etc.) so I top coated with Krylon John Deere Yellow.
Some of the parts I painted first with Rustoleum Safety Yellow but it was too light/bright so I recoated them with the Sun Yellow before the John Deere Yellow. The solvents in Rustoleum and Krylon are different so the Krylon wrinkled some of the parts, you can see if you look closely. I am not impressed with the durability of the rattle can stuff so I will be looking for a new small spray gun so I can use some different paint in the future. Leeha uses some one part urethane he gets mixed at NAPA that is a much better paint.
I did make up a sort of simple, knock down portable paint booth that I connected to my dust collector so I will be looking to improve my paint & application process in the future.
When I am done painting, I can fold it back into the box size/shape and keep it in the attic until the next time.
Mark
Some of the parts I painted first with Rustoleum Safety Yellow but it was too light/bright so I recoated them with the Sun Yellow before the John Deere Yellow. The solvents in Rustoleum and Krylon are different so the Krylon wrinkled some of the parts, you can see if you look closely. I am not impressed with the durability of the rattle can stuff so I will be looking for a new small spray gun so I can use some different paint in the future. Leeha uses some one part urethane he gets mixed at NAPA that is a much better paint.
I did make up a sort of simple, knock down portable paint booth that I connected to my dust collector so I will be looking to improve my paint & application process in the future.
When I am done painting, I can fold it back into the box size/shape and keep it in the attic until the next time.
Mark
crazy4saws
ArboristSite Member
I like the paint box set up you built. It looks like it works well for small paint jobs. I read somewhere that sand blasting diecast magnesium or just plain magnesium could etch the metal surface and actually take away some of the metal. Others had suggested nut shells or even glass instead of sand. I believe I read that off AS or SH. not sure. Im sure not over doing it on the sand blasting is beneficial.
When I look at the pics of the 125 before painting all the parts seem extremely clean, as they should be. However you had to do more than just hit them with cleaner before painting? you sand blasted them, wired brushed them or something correct?
Have you ever tried powder coating?
Before you tear down the saw for cleaning and painting do you run it and cut wood,to make sure mechanically sound? This way you arent tearing back into it and possibly damaging the paint job? This seems the most logical thing to do.
Sorry for the all the questions guys. I want to research as much about restoration as possible before doing my own. You know, learn from others mistakes sorta thing. I searched restorations and painting on AS but it doesnt bring up much.
Leeha if you feel like it please chime in about your experiences.
Thanks
When I look at the pics of the 125 before painting all the parts seem extremely clean, as they should be. However you had to do more than just hit them with cleaner before painting? you sand blasted them, wired brushed them or something correct?
Have you ever tried powder coating?
Before you tear down the saw for cleaning and painting do you run it and cut wood,to make sure mechanically sound? This way you arent tearing back into it and possibly damaging the paint job? This seems the most logical thing to do.
Sorry for the all the questions guys. I want to research as much about restoration as possible before doing my own. You know, learn from others mistakes sorta thing. I searched restorations and painting on AS but it doesnt bring up much.
Leeha if you feel like it please chime in about your experiences.
Thanks
This saw came in pieces but I did check the bore pretty carefully to make sure it was worth the effort.
I soaked the cylinder in Chem Dip for a few weeks to loosen up the baked on carbon (I was traveling and working on other projects so it had quite a soak time), washed everything that needed it in the parts washer, and sand blasted everything prior to painting. I take care to cover all of the threaded openings, ports, etc. and stuffed rags into the cylinder to protect the bore.
If you think you can remove much material in the process of sand blasting, just try to reduce a dimension of a part...that said you can have a lot of control over the process with the size of your sand and the air pressure you use. I have even used the sand blast cabinet to clean up carburetors that were in rough shape. Others would suggest using soda blasting, but I use what I have and have had good success so far.
I have only done a total rebuild that required repainting on a few saws. As much as I can I try to keep saws original unless they are really badly corroded or most of the paint is already missing.
No powder coating for me yet but I won't rule it out for some future project.
Chainsaw parts are small paint jobs so the box works just fine.
Mark
I soaked the cylinder in Chem Dip for a few weeks to loosen up the baked on carbon (I was traveling and working on other projects so it had quite a soak time), washed everything that needed it in the parts washer, and sand blasted everything prior to painting. I take care to cover all of the threaded openings, ports, etc. and stuffed rags into the cylinder to protect the bore.
If you think you can remove much material in the process of sand blasting, just try to reduce a dimension of a part...that said you can have a lot of control over the process with the size of your sand and the air pressure you use. I have even used the sand blast cabinet to clean up carburetors that were in rough shape. Others would suggest using soda blasting, but I use what I have and have had good success so far.
I have only done a total rebuild that required repainting on a few saws. As much as I can I try to keep saws original unless they are really badly corroded or most of the paint is already missing.
No powder coating for me yet but I won't rule it out for some future project.
Chainsaw parts are small paint jobs so the box works just fine.
Mark
crazy4saws
ArboristSite Member
Thanks mark, I appreciate your insight and help. I will post back when I start my rebuild process.
ODW - there is a brace with the anti-vibe mount parts on eBay right now for $39 + $13 shipping.
Mark
Mark
Nothing in 24 hours?
I started in on a new project last night while waiting for another batch of saws to arrive so I can finish up the DE80 and PM800 in process. Another 82 cc 10 Series saw, but this one is special.
I finally have an SP80 with the three shoe clutch...you can just make it out above the heavily oiled air filter in the last photo.
Other that being covered with sawdust and oil residue, it seems to be in pretty good shape. The inside of the fuel tank is a bit crusty so I will have to give it a good cleaning then another Red Cote job is in order.
Should make a nice running saw when I get done with it.
Mark
I started in on a new project last night while waiting for another batch of saws to arrive so I can finish up the DE80 and PM800 in process. Another 82 cc 10 Series saw, but this one is special.
I finally have an SP80 with the three shoe clutch...you can just make it out above the heavily oiled air filter in the last photo.
Other that being covered with sawdust and oil residue, it seems to be in pretty good shape. The inside of the fuel tank is a bit crusty so I will have to give it a good cleaning then another Red Cote job is in order.
Should make a nice running saw when I get done with it.
Mark
Craigwell
ArboristSite Operative
Yeah I'm almost ready to turn my attention to the macs in my collection. There's about a dozen I need to go over, and see what's required.
The 35 and D44 are of most interest, but a couple nice 10-10's and some little guys as well will be fun to catalog and sort out.
The D33 Le Sabre I have has been "restored", but I don't know precisely what was done. I think I'll need to dismantle it before I consider trying to run it. Probably will just stay on the shelf
The 35 and D44 are of most interest, but a couple nice 10-10's and some little guys as well will be fun to catalog and sort out.
The D33 Le Sabre I have has been "restored", but I don't know precisely what was done. I think I'll need to dismantle it before I consider trying to run it. Probably will just stay on the shelf
I do want to see a LeSabre running some day, I don't think it will be the one I have though. It was dripping water when I picked it up, I did my best to oil it up to prevent further damage but I cringe when I think about opening that one up.
Mark
Mark
Hey this is bob the newby
I seem to gravitate to yellow for some reason. I have many others but never pass on a Mac. I have only recently succomb to CAD but it does seem to be a severe case ( at least that's what the wife says)
My list for macs so far is
Pro- Mac 850 (2o$ Craigslist) now running
Pro-Mac 700 (60$) ran when purchased
10-1oa (8$ at auction) now running
200 (10$ craigslist) currently on the bench!
One little shaver not sure the model
One other 10-10 in seriously bad shape. Not sure if I want to tackle or not
I seem to gravitate to yellow for some reason. I have many others but never pass on a Mac. I have only recently succomb to CAD but it does seem to be a severe case ( at least that's what the wife says)
My list for macs so far is
Pro- Mac 850 (2o$ Craigslist) now running
Pro-Mac 700 (60$) ran when purchased
10-1oa (8$ at auction) now running
200 (10$ craigslist) currently on the bench!
One little shaver not sure the model
One other 10-10 in seriously bad shape. Not sure if I want to tackle or not
Show her this, either it will assure her you are O.K., or warn her of things to come...
No repeats, all different trips and hauls.
My wife never goes up in the attic of my workshop so she only sees part of what is really there.
Truth is there are a lot more hanging around my place.
Mark
No repeats, all different trips and hauls.
My wife never goes up in the attic of my workshop so she only sees part of what is really there.
Truth is there are a lot more hanging around my place.
Mark
Blondie says it looks like my pile.
I wish.........
I wish.........
Man, that is inspirational right there, Mark! Fields of gold, er, yellow... So... I'm guessing you would be a good person to talk to if I wanted to purchase a part I'm having trouble finding? Hasn't come up yet, but it is surely on the horizon. If their is one thing my experience restoring old wood and metal working machinery has taught me, it is that I tend to gravitate toward the most hopeless cases. Therefore, it's always good to know a guy who knows a guy who keeps a solid stock of unobtainium! Seriously enviable photos. We're moving into a larger space this spring, and I look forward to having a space dedicated to CAD, which will quickly fill up and spill onto every other space.
Cam
Funny stuff mark she got a kick out of it and I got that look. You know the one that says don't even think about!!!!
Dumb question of the day from the newbie.
A Mac 200 that has 118 lb compression... Should it at least run even if weak???
Go ahead and say it ... Dad blame rookies. I know I know. Ha ha.
Thanks in advance
Anything over 100 PSI and most of the old reed valve engines will run. They may not be as strong as they once were, but run...yes.
Try giving is a shot of mix right down the throat of the carburetor then pulling it over with the throttle held wide open, it should at least fire for a second or two. Sometimes it takes 3 or more attempts like this before the carburetor starts pulling fuel.
Mark
P.S. I do have a few parts and parts saws but I am getting stingy in my old age.
Try giving is a shot of mix right down the throat of the carburetor then pulling it over with the throttle held wide open, it should at least fire for a second or two. Sometimes it takes 3 or more attempts like this before the carburetor starts pulling fuel.
Mark
P.S. I do have a few parts and parts saws but I am getting stingy in my old age.
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