McCulloch Chain Saws

[joeymt33]

Indeed they are, I keep thinking they're going to collapse. Those two sawhorses have held many logs over the past for five years The log will be up there for the next few days before I can start cutting. If you can make it that long, maybe it won't fall on me!

 

[joeymt33]

Btw, I pinch the bar on the SP40 and bent it plus the tensioning screw.

The PM8200 has a leaky gas cap.

I believe both PM8200 and PM800 are burning bar oil. :-(.

However, they all started great and ran very strong.

 

[joeymt33]

Anyone got a better idea for an air filter for my PM850 when milling? The fine dust seems to find its way in.

I've sealed around the carb adjustment screws, and linkages with some tar like goop called Aviation gasket maker. I don't feel like it comes through there.

I have an air filter with a rubber frame that is twice as thick as the others and it seems to almost eliminate all the dust last time I milled.

That filter will be completely caked from the filter to the bottom side of the airbox cover after 3-4 cuts in that fine dust. Maybe I should set up a leaf blower aimed at me to keep the dust away. [emoji848]

 

[joeymt33]

I have not been looking for McCullough parts in quite some time. Can someone point me in the direction to find some of the spring plates to prevent the oil pump from leaking bar oil into the cylinder?

 

[rwoods]

Joey, somebody made up a bunch of clips awhile back. Mark mentioned them in the last month or so in this thread I believe.

Ron

 

[heimannm]

Need a bar for the SP40 Joey? I probably have a spare... PM me with your new address and I can send you a few of the spring clips that Steve Anderson (Steve in NW WI) made for me a while back.

Austin - HC is and HL without the fuel pump so yes, the metering diaphragm and other parts will work.

Ron - I have a few spare coarse thread poppet type compression release valves as well, never want to get caught without one if I need it. Good price

Poge - I have not had any success with those style fuel caps. The brass insert will twist right out, either the red Homelite or green Poulan duckbill valves drop in. FWIS, some plastic Jenn Feng McCulloch saws used the same green duckbill valve on the fuel and/or oil tanks.



This plastic insert will also come out easy enough but must be drilled out to 5/32" diameter x 1/4" deep to allow the alternate duck bill valves to be used.



Mark

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Joey, somebody made up a bunch of clips awhile back. Mark mentioned them in the last month or so in this thread I believe.

Ron

Mark was kind enough to send one to me that was fab'd up by Steve NW WI. Not quite as rigid as the OEM from my understanding. Had a time trying to get it in place without it folding on me. I'd go OEM if you can find one cheap...., or make one. Tim (Fossil) suggested steel pallet strapping as a possible choice for the metal. A little snipping and a little grinding and you have a similar wedge if it's strong enough material.

 

[rwoods]

Ron - I have one like that and would love to have a copy of the manual/instructions if you have access to a scanner or copier.

Mark

No problem. I'll make you a copy when it gets here.
Have you used yours? If so, is it pretty straight forward? I have a well used (not by me) Foley Belsaw spinner and separate punch. I usually have a wrestling match with the chain when using the punch.

Ron

I too have one of those breaker spinners so if you could spare a manual copy I would be very grateful!

No problem, if I can scan and post it. Otherwise you will need to pm a mailing address or email address.

Not sure when I will get it as seller didn't seem to be in any hurry in our dealings.

Have you used yours?

Ron

Gentlemen, I am sad to report that I just got a message through eBay that the Seller has refunded my money since USPS has returned my purchase to the Seller as it was damaged in transit. I have send a message to the Seller asking the extent of the damage.

Ron

 

[heimannm]

The secret to the spring clip is not how stiff the material is, but how well you wedge them in place.



Mark

 

[astnmacgto]

Gentlemen, I am sad to report that I just got a message through eBay that the Seller has refunded my money since USPS has returned my purchase to the Seller as it was damaged in transit. I have send a message to the Seller asking the extent of the damage.

Ron

Shipping had to have gotten pretty rowdy with it to damage that cast breaker.... of course, I guess they could have bent the handle or something

 

[astnmacgto]

Need a bar for the SP40 Joey? I probably have a spare... PM me with your new address and I can send you a few of the spring clips that Steve Anderson (Steve in NW WI) made for me a while back.

Austin - HC is and HL without the fuel pump so yes, the metering diaphragm and other parts will work.

Ron - I have a few spare coarse thread poppet type compression release valves as well, never want to get caught without one if I need it. Good price

Poge - I have not had any success with those style fuel caps. The brass insert will twist right out, either the red Homelite or green Poulan duckbill valves drop in. FWIS, some plastic Jenn Feng McCulloch saws used the same green duckbill valve on the fuel and/or oil tanks.

View attachment 560874

This plastic insert will also come out easy enough but must be drilled out to 5/32" diameter x 1/4" deep to allow the alternate duck bill valves to be used.

View attachment 560876

Mark

I had figured an hl kit would work but I wasn't sure.... dad just picked up a mono with an ah47, lime green bar, and an hc on it. We worked on cleaning the points to regain our spark, now we just have to kit the carb, the metering diaphragm had turned into a brittle plastic texture

 

[joeymt33]

I'm going through some fuel caps for the 10 series and the service manual indicates they are service-able by separating them or pulling the center plug to access the vent assembly. I'm guessing the caps in the pics are not the type that pop apart by design, but the center plugs aren't budging either. Since the caps are super brittle, I'm reluctant to apply much force trying to get to the vent. I seem to recall another type with a serrated brass washer/insert that could be removed with a pic and the cap drilled out slightly to accept the Stens duckbill (either the Homelite or Poulan, don't remember). Will I need to do something similar to salvage these caps? The guy in Ky. has Fel-Pro gaskets cheap with no shipping and I was going to get some unless I need to get new caps to replace these instead. They currently all leak through the vent when tested with a good gasket.

View attachment 560805

View attachment 560806​

Those you have pictured are tough. I was able to use an "easy out" damaged screw remover to twist out the inner piece. After cleaning the black goo out, I was able to put a new valve back in.

If I can remember, I'll try another next time I'm in the shop and see if i can replicate it and take pics.

 

[astnmacgto]

Anyone got a better idea for an air filter for my PM850 when milling? The fine dust seems to find its way in.

I've sealed around the carb adjustment screws, and linkages with some tar like goop called Aviation gasket maker. I don't feel like it comes through there.

I have an air filter with a rubber frame that is twice as thick as the others and it seems to almost eliminate all the dust last time I milled.

That filter will be completely caked from the filter to the bottom side of the airbox cover after 3-4 cuts in that fine dust. Maybe I should set up a leaf blower aimed at me to keep the dust away. [emoji848]

Is that your designated milling saw? Perhaps a k&n cone type filter would flow enough air it wouldn't create any kind of suction through the element, at least you could stop, flick the filter to knock off anything that has collected, and keep milling in about 5 seconds......

You could even wrap it in green foam for a pre filter, keep the fine dust from getting in the pleats

 

[joeymt33]

Is that your designated milling saw? Perhaps a k&n cone type filter would flow enough air it wouldn't create any kind of suction through the element, at least you could stop, flick the filter to knock off anything that has collected, and keep milling in about 5 seconds......

You could even wrap it in green foam for a pre filter, keep the fine dust from getting in the pleats

It is the designated milling saw. How would I attach the filter?

 

[acpat]

zip ties

 

[astnmacgto]

It is the designated milling saw. How would I attach the filter?

I'm working on getting some kind of a v stack designed to fit those saws, something similar to a bearing race with gasket and countersunk screws for carb

 

[astnmacgto]

I have a few irons in the fire right now (nothing unusual) but as soon as I get a few things done I'm gonna start on building one of those, if it come out good, I'd be more than happy to send you one to try out. Youd have to buy the filter of course!

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Those you have pictured are tough. I was able to use an "easy out" damaged screw remover to twist out the inner piece. After cleaning the black goo out, I was able to put a new valve back in.

If I can remember, I'll try another next time I'm in the shop and see if i can replicate it and take pics.

That would be much appreciated. Sounds like I don't have much to lose by taking a stab at one today myself using the tap and fender washer approach since I don't have an "easy out". I presume these style caps still have the spring assembly vent?

And on another subject; I'm guessing if I can't find a 'dot' or see a bevel on my SP81 rings they're probably in need of replacement? I have yet to find anything definitive on acceptable end gap in the documentation I've read so far, but there is a lot I haven't read yet. I also couldn't determine any difference between the two rings though I recall reading that the top ring was supposed to be chromed or stainless steel or something? I do have a brand new set of rings for a PM700 with no dots, no bevels, and no difference between the two.) Any clarification here would also be appreciated!

​

 

[joeymt33]

Please bear with me on the video below, it's not that easy to hold a camera and tools. I wanted to show you an unedited video so that you can see real-time what it took to get one of these out. It's a 5 1/2 minute long video.



I went ahead and took out the centerpiece on all three caps that I had like this. I found out that there's a small rubber O-ring below the metal piece and above the plastic piece. Looks like I need to go find some of these because I don't remember last time finding one and putting it back in.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Thanks a ton for that demonstration. Helps a lot in understanding what's involved. What size 'easy out' did you end up using? Certainly looks like the way to go to salvage this style cap.