brandonstc6
Addicted to ArboristSite
Yes, i believe my saw has a hole in the intake block instead.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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More log dragging and no MAC cutting today.
I visited with Brian later in the day and we went over how he got the SP125C going - he replaced the DSP. The old one was shot - not carboned up - just worn out. I don't know why but if I understood and saw it correctly there was not enough valve left to seat. I didn't think to take a picture. I hope he enjoys the old MAC as much he does the PM800. We have an old large mount 36" Stihl bar for it. Any caveats that we should know when converting it?
Ron
I visited with Brian later in the day and we went over how he got the SP125C going - he replaced the DSP. The old one was shot - not carboned up - just worn out. I don't know why but if I understood and saw it correctly there was not enough valve left to seat. I didn't think to take a picture. I hope he enjoys the old MAC as much he does the PM800. We have an old large mount 36" Stihl bar for it. Any caveats that we should know when converting it?
Ron
brandonstc6
Addicted to ArboristSite
Thanks for the expert help. I'm pretty sure the missing cap screw is the problem. Pretty much everything rubber is new on the saw.
Yep. No Impulse line on the rigid mount saws.
Yes to Brandon - you can see the screw installed in Poge's photo above. I think it is an 10-24 socket head cap screw 1/4" long.
Poge - On this saw and all of the "rigid" models with the fuel tank / air box hard mounted to the cylinder the impulse comes through the carburetor flange as shown on the right below. For the anti-vibe saws the impulse is delivered by an impulse line via the nipple shown on the left below to a nipple on the air box.
Mark
Poge - On this saw and all of the "rigid" models with the fuel tank / air box hard mounted to the cylinder the impulse comes through the carburetor flange as shown on the right below. For the anti-vibe saws the impulse is delivered by an impulse line via the nipple shown on the left below to a nipple on the air box.
Mark
One thing I found helpful for checking seals under vacuum is to spray oil on the seal. It squeals if it leaks a fair bit.
Chalk up another MAC rescue to Mark and Company. 
Ron
Ron
I see the difference in the impulse passage. Haven't torn a rigid all the way down yet. 'Bout eight of em sittin' here needing it, tho!
And +1 on the oil around the seals to check for vac leaks. It'll draw into the seal and indeed sometimes make a whistle. Will also occasionally stop a small vac leak temporarily, so don't be fooled. Watch the oil closely as you pull vac. You'll see it getting drawn in.
And +1 on the oil around the seals to check for vac leaks. It'll draw into the seal and indeed sometimes make a whistle. Will also occasionally stop a small vac leak temporarily, so don't be fooled. Watch the oil closely as you pull vac. You'll see it getting drawn in.
Okay for all you who have been looking for a coarse thread DSP valve for the late model 82cc MAC here is one. Please buy it before I do. http://m.ebay.com/itm/NOS-McCulloch...%3A7893f5f515a0a78574234b1bffe93edf%7Ciid%3A2 Ron
astnmacgto
Carnac The Magnificent
Cheaper than I had figured too, better just get it! I could probably use it but I don't need it.
I kinda like it, decent power in a smallish package, much like the homies you mention. had 130, and worked on & test rode a 76.
I have several in inventory already. They are very hard to find.
Personally I am a big believer in using them - easier and usually safer for you and much less stress on the saw. And much cheaper than a new flywheel cover.
Simple to convert a non-DSP 82cc MAC. Just remove the muffler bracket bolt, drill a small port if not present, and screw in the valve.
Ron
I'm going through some fuel caps for the 10 series and the service manual indicates they are service-able by separating them or pulling the center plug to access the vent assembly. I'm guessing the caps in the pics are not the type that pop apart by design, but the center plugs aren't budging either. Since the caps are super brittle, I'm reluctant to apply much force trying to get to the vent. I seem to recall another type with a serrated brass washer/insert that could be removed with a pic and the cap drilled out slightly to accept the Stens duckbill (either the Homelite or Poulan, don't remember). Will I need to do something similar to salvage these caps? The guy in Ky. has Fel-Pro gaskets cheap with no shipping and I was going to get some unless I need to get new caps to replace these instead. They currently all leak through the vent when tested with a good gasket.
Poge,
I am pretty sure I removed one of those vent tubes a couple years ago on a 10-10. I want to say I tapped it and threaded a machine screw into the hole a few turns. I used a fender washer with a large enough hole to pass the tube placed against the body of the cap. I put the head of the screw in a vice and used the claw of a hammer between the washer and the vice to lever the washer. Tube let go and the cap popped off. The fender washer distributes the force and minimizes the potential for cracking the (Bakelite/phenolic) cap.
I know for certain I have done this on a couple of older Homelite caps with similar set-up. Worked like a charm.
I am pretty sure I removed one of those vent tubes a couple years ago on a 10-10. I want to say I tapped it and threaded a machine screw into the hole a few turns. I used a fender washer with a large enough hole to pass the tube placed against the body of the cap. I put the head of the screw in a vice and used the claw of a hammer between the washer and the vice to lever the washer. Tube let go and the cap popped off. The fender washer distributes the force and minimizes the potential for cracking the (Bakelite/phenolic) cap.
I know for certain I have done this on a couple of older Homelite caps with similar set-up. Worked like a charm.
astnmacgto
Carnac The Magnificent
Anybody know if you can rebuild a Tillotson hc with hl parts kit?
Great idea, Cory. Thanks. What was your solution to securing the vent innards and a new duckbill, (if you actually did)? Was there still enough of the plug left after tapping to re-use it for the purpose?
Here's an HC IPL for a start
http://tillotson.ie/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/HC-Series-Parts-List.pdf
It looks like Tillotson is starting to make parts for some of the very old carbs. You might call them and talk to them.
astnmacgto
Carnac The Magnificent
Sounds like a good idea, I'll have to check it out
joeymt33
I bleed YELLOW!
I should have done a better job taking pics! All I can do is promise that a PM8200 cut the tree down, a PM800 cut it up and SP40 did all the trimming.
It's been half way down since the April 2011 tornadoes that ripped through here. The tree is still green and was producing leaves.
It will now be a new dining room table and several other things. It will be milled with a PM850.
I'll try to do better with the pics and vids when milling.
It's been half way down since the April 2011 tornadoes that ripped through here. The tree is still green and was producing leaves.
It will now be a new dining room table and several other things. It will be milled with a PM850.
I'll try to do better with the pics and vids when milling.
Coupla bad ass saw horses ya have there!
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