Ran 3 tanks of fuel out of my 610 today. I know it is a heavy saw but it is still an impressive saw. Twice I had the 20 inch bar sunk all the way and baring down hard on it and it just kept going.
Brian
Brian
McCulloch Chain Saws
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I have a timber bear myself. I have exactly $0 into it and while a heavy saw, it does cut......... my only real complaint is they should slap the engineer that put the bar oil cap under the chainbrake flag.
You know I was thinking the same thing today. Ron found at TSC a spout that fits the top of a chain oil jug and it is small and flexible. I bought one Friday and boy does it make putting chain oil in those and other saws a whole lot easier. I also took one of my Pro 10-10 with me and cut a while with it and my PM6. Was not watching what I was doing and pinched my bar on the 610 so I thought sense I had the PM6 in the side X side and the 10-10 was in the truck on top of the hill I would just use it to get my saw out. Well pinched the PM6 also and had to get the 10-10 to cut both saws out. I was about to run out of saws...lol Just had my head up my butt and not watching. The log was laying half up on the hill and the top down on the road. I thought I would just under cut it and it would fall down but no it showed me different. Then took the PM6 and sawed from the top and stuck a wedge in to keep it from pinching and my wedge slipped out. Just one of those days.
Brian
Brian
fechtichmac
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Yes,thouse saws powerful (and heavy)
E.
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Strong enough to build a house out of and just about the right shape. McBricks are good saws but as you mentined, heavy.
By removing one nut, same wrench as the bar nuts, you can drop the brake flag out of your way to get a better shot at the oil tank.
Mark
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What should the pop off pressure be for the needle and seat on these Flatback carbs? Wondering if the metering lever spring is sacked out and it's over fueling rather than under fueling........
I don't know where they are supposed to pop off but the ones I've checked didn't release even at 10 or 12 PSI which is about all I can achieve with my bulb type tester.
Mark
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Thanks mark. Will check mine tomorrow.
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That might be why it was set higher than it should have been and ran. You may be on to something.
Brian
Brian
Can only speak for myself, but often when I work on frustrating MAC issues my pop-off pressure gets rather low. Sad to say that my family wouldn't limit that statement to just MAC issues. Ron
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I swear this saw is possessed!!!!! I got the Welch plugs (thanks Mark) and ever so carefully went through the carb making sure it was totally spotless. I put it back in the saw and it started in one pull after getting the primer to pull fuel. Was running but not well. Kept missing and backfiring. Then it stalled and would not fire. Found that I had lost reliable spark. So I dug into the points again[emoji35] filed, gapped, cleaned, rinse and repeat about ten times (getting tired of removing the flywheel) swapped coils from a running saw and still no joy. What am I missing with these points? I'm sure it's the points. Points are all I've ever had wrong with a points saw. But why can't I get this set to work?
I don' recall if you've tested the condenser or not. It might be worth swapping one out f a saw that runs well or I found this in House of Homelite
Testing a condenser
Although this won't give you the condenser's actual value, it will tell you if it is "Open" or "Shorted." In doing this test, you cannot touch both meter leads with your fingers or you will see your body resistance.
When you test resistance, you are using the battery in the meter to pass current through a circuit. Our circuit is just the condenser but a condenser will store an electric charge. You are actually charging the up the condenser with the meter to a few volts. When you reverse the leads, the condenser will discharge through the meter showing a momentary low resistance reading until it charges up with the opposite polarity.
If the condenser is shorted or leaking, you will see some constant resistance. If it is open it will read infinity all the time
Testing a condenser
Although this won't give you the condenser's actual value, it will tell you if it is "Open" or "Shorted." In doing this test, you cannot touch both meter leads with your fingers or you will see your body resistance.
- Place your meter on its highest Ohm scale
- Pinch your red meter lead with your fingers to the condenser wire and touch the condenser case with the black lead but don't let your fingers touch the lead or condenser.
- Your meter should show a brief reading and then display infinity. Different meters display infinity differently so what you see with the leads not touching anything is infinity.
- Now reverse the leads and you should see brief reading before the meter displays infinity. If you are using an analog meter, one with a needle, you will see the needle bounce to a low reading and then swing up to infinity. Analog meters actually work the best for this because you can watch the needle swing. Switch the leads back and forth a couple of time and watch this.
When you test resistance, you are using the battery in the meter to pass current through a circuit. Our circuit is just the condenser but a condenser will store an electric charge. You are actually charging the up the condenser with the meter to a few volts. When you reverse the leads, the condenser will discharge through the meter showing a momentary low resistance reading until it charges up with the opposite polarity.
If the condenser is shorted or leaking, you will see some constant resistance. If it is open it will read infinity all the time
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Thanks for the help, I have never experienced a bad condenser so I have no idea how it would act. Might be worth swapping a known good one. But not looking forward to pulling the flywheel from another saw[emoji35]
You can only file points so many times...
I think we all know that pull it off for the 10th time issue. Be thankful it's not a Pioneer P41.
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I agree, but to my eye there is plenty of meat left on these.
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In reality a cap should be tested with 400-600 volts and checked for no leakage current shown in microamps (Ua). I do it all the time and many are bad.
The problem is that a failing capacitor can still run and start a saw. A bad cap will not start the saw as good or easy. It may die and stop from heat. after a hour or more or a day it will magically go again.
I've done electric testing for 40 years
Tim's test is entirely valid for limited testing resources. But the final analysis IS...It can detect a bad capacitor, but not necessarily prove the cap is good. VOM don't really have enough poop with the 9V battery
I have bought NOS (real old) caps and some are junk right out the box but sometimes they are OK. Fresh and new is you best bet...
I saw your post over there Dave but figured us average guys wouldn't have a 400V source and still be alive.
