McCulloch Chain Saws

[rocketnorton]

Thanks Pete - it appears all they did to make it work with the LH start saw was made it wider on the left side for added clearance. Could you get a measurement on the width of your full wrap. I am sure that I could work with the guys who fabricated the initial handles to make it wider on the left side and that takes care of the starter issue.

Others would have to be willing to modify the clutch cover unless you have a very early one like the one shown on Pete's saw and on the 7-10 in my photos.

Mark

inside measurement, upright to clutch side is 2 9/16" @ widest point.

 

[heimannm]

Thanks Pete, I will work on getting some wider ones made that would clear the LH starter. I will look into just how the later version of the clutch cover needs to be modified to accept the full wrap handle. I am sure it would be possible to have some made up with the "angled" modifications to clear the starter and match the notch in the clutch covers but I reckon they would cost more like $100 each due to the extra work involved.



Mark

 

[heimannm]

still working hard - (see what I did there?...) the regular 250 is an 80 cc saw with 2.125" bore and 1.375" stroke. The same clutch cover was used on saws from the 200 through the 550, 60133 or 60134; just make sure you have the chain/bar adjust screw in the clutch cover. Earlier saws had the same clutch cover without the chain/bar adjust screw and used a screw in the oil tank to tension the chain.

This 1-50 has the same style clutch cover but no adjust screw.



This is a 250 with the bar adjust screw in the clutch cover.



I have never seen a 250 with the long AF cover painted black. Most were yellow as you see above, and later model 250's had a short black AF cover. I can't find my photo of the 250 with the short cover but it's out there somewhere.

Mark

 

[heimannm]

Nick - thanks for posting the message RE: Bob. Now the guys over on SawHawgz will have to find someone else to pick on.

Bob had a lot of first hand information on McCulloch saws based on his time spent working in the McCulloch factory there.

Mark

 

[rocketnorton]

rip, mcbob.

 

[emf123]

I've learned a lot from McBob, and miss his website. He will be surely missed by all us McC-Holics. RIP and condolences to his family.

 

[Brian Thacker]

RIP McBob

RIP Bob

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Ditto on the sentiments about Bob.

A real shame.

 

[Mac&Homelite]

Ok, I know there were several conversion threads about changing Stihl bars to Mac, but all the pictures are gone and I'm lost about what to do about the oiler holes. Found a spring to take up the bar slop, and the adjuster fits perfectly, but the oiler is stumping me. Where do I go from here, aside from a NOS Mac bar.

 

[rwoods]

Ok, I know there were several conversion threads about changing Stihl bars to Mac, but all the pictures are gone and I'm lost about what to do about the oiler holes. Found a spring to take up the bar slop, and the adjuster fits perfectly, but the oiler is stumping me. Where do I go from here, aside from a NOS Mac bar.

Use the bar plate as a guide and drill a hole in top and a hole in the bottom that will show up in the slots. Then drill through the chain channel to meet the hole. Top channel to top hole and bottom to bottom.

Ron

 

[rwoods]

And you may need bar spacers if that is a large frame saw. Ron

 

[Mac&Homelite]

And you may need bar spacers if that is a large frame saw. Ron

Thank you! It's a Mac 250 so there was significant slop in the mount. Only took two trips to the hardware store and I found a spring that took up nearly all of the play in the bar space.

 

[rwoods]

I am talking about side spacers to space out the bar plates. The chain will ride lower with the narrower tail thus the cutters may hit the plates.

Ron

 

[rwoods]

http://m.ebay.com/itm/MCCULLOCH-BAR...%3A2f5f985e15d0ab4569478a0effe95067%7Ciid%3A1

Ron

 

[rwoods]

Use the bar plate as a guide and drill a hole in top and a hole in the bottom that will show up in the slots. Then drill through the chain channel to meet the hole. Top channel to top hole and bottom to bottom.

Ron

I should add to position the holes so they will stay within the slot as the chain is adjusted.

Ron

 

[Stihl working hard]

http://m.ebay.com/itm/MCCULLOCH-BAR-SPACER-GUIDE-PLATES-125-105-BOX292-/351649107750?hash=item51dfeb8f26:m:m07NeV0FDDZFaMVWBrZCvQA&_trkparms=pageci%3A99b86b38-65dc-11e7-acca-74dbd180bbc6%7Cparentrq%3A2f5f985e15d0ab4569478a0effe95067%7Ciid%3A1

Ron

Will this adjuster plate concept work on the 250 or will I need the aluminium one that sits inside the bar mount as I will be putting a Stihl bar on it

 

[rwoods]

Will this adjuster plate concept work on the 250 or will I need the aluminium one that sits inside the bar mount as I will be putting a Stihl bar on it

Two different issues: the side plate spacers only provide additional width between the bar plates. A spring or slot spacer only takes of the difference in the bar bolt diameter and the width of the slot.

You need both.

Ron

 

[Stihl working hard]

Two different issues: the side plate spacers only provide additional width between the bar plates. A spring or slot spacer only takes of the difference in the bar bolt diameter and the width of the slot.

You need both.

Ron

Thanks for that wasn't 100% sure

 

[Brian Thacker]

Well I have to brag a little on my old PM610. I had to cut a stump down yesterday and I had the 24" bar on it, buried all the way in a 34" red oak stump and it just kept on going. It choked down a little but never stopped, just kept on pulling. It kept the chips flying. I know a lot of people don't like them because they are very heavy, big and bulky, but they will perform and get the job done. It's dirty, it's ugly but it works.

Brian

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

You can also get pretty tight to the ground with one. I've long thought flush stumpin' was the perfect secret calling for that saw.

Glad to see someone else give it a shot too..., and actually brag about it!