McCulloch Chain Saws

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I deal with Mark also. Super nice guy and he does hate doing blind cylinders. Like Lee said if they are gouged past the plating he cannot get in there to repair. Now on a 101B or others that have open cylinders he has a better chance of fixing them. He also threatens me that he is going to quit doing blind cylinders but every time I ask him he says to send them. But super nice and easy to work with, will help you if he can. The cylinders that he has done for me have always been flawless when I get them back. I have used them for many motorcycle cylinders through out the years. I have also thought that if their is a gouge that went into the aluminium you could find a piston that is big enough to go past the gouge and just have them bore it to that size to get past the gouge and then plate it. Just a thought.

Brian

That's what I did on a Sachs Dolmar 166. I sent them a cylinder but it had a good gouge
right to the crown and it could not be fixed. They can fix gouges but when it get that far
in the welder can't get in far enough. I modded a 084 Stihl piston which is 4mm bigger
than the 166 piston so sent the cylinder back and they bored and plated it. That saw
went from 118cc's to 136cc's and pulls like a freight train.
 
No offence but that saw ain't even a Mcculloch. May say it on it but
In my opinion Mcculloch disappeared back in the 80's or 90's when
they focused on cheap consumer saws.
Robert Mcculloch would be turning in his grave if he saw what his
company became.
No argument from me
 
Mark,
I know where there is a super 250 yellow top, but you would have to pry it from the guys hands after you killed him!

Brian V.
 
I don't think I posted this here. Be very careful what fuel you buy. I own a small motorcycle shop and a guy brought in a sport bike that had leaky carbs. I cleaned the carbs in my heated ultrasonic cleaner, put in new float valves and all rubber components and gaskets, put everything back together. It ran great. It took the guy 2 weeks to return and pick up his bike. When he started it up it started leaking fuel out of the over flows again. I took the carbs back apart again and this is what I found.
100_5659.JPG

I have been having trouble with fuel all summer long. The fuel came from a station that advertises ethanol free fuel. I had rebuilt my PM800 in February and put new fuel line on it. I started sawing with it the other day and had about a half of a tank of fuel. I turned it up on it's side to make a cut and it acted like it was out of fuel. I got it back to the shop and found the fuel line was as hard as a rock. Where some of the fuel had leaked out of the bike I had fixed it bubbled up the 10 year old paint on my floor that nothing else I had spilt on it had touched, it bubbled up the paint. I took some of the fuel that I drained from the motorcycle and put it in a old genset I have had for years thinking it could not hurt it. The old tank on the genset had developed a leak back in the winter and I used JB Wield to repair it and lined the tank with redkote which I have used for years. It ate threw the redkote and the JB Wield felt like clay. I also got some fuel at the beginning of the summer that ate the fuel lines off both my weedeaters and my blower. Also had a guy bring in a CanAm quad. On a CanAm it has grommets for the fuel lines to pass threw going into the fuel tank. The fuel he had gotten had ate the fuel lines up and also the grommets up that went into the tank and the fuel lines passed threw. Don't know what to tell you on where to get fuel but the junk we are getting around here must be pure acid. The fuel that spilled on the floor from the quad also ate the paint up off my floor. I have spilled everything you could think of on that floor and it had not ate the paint up. Brake fluid you name it and up to now it had never ate the paint up. Don't know what the answer is but watch your fuel.
Here is a pic of the carbs after I cleaned them the second time. They looked this good the first time I cleaned them. All four float valves were stuck.

100_5667.JPG
Good Luck buying fuel. I now have a sign in the shop that states their is no warranty on carb repairs because of poor fuels.

Brian
 
Good Luck buying fuel. I now have a sign in the shop that states their is no warranty on carb repairs because of poor fuels.

Brian
It's too bad what they are doing with all this ethanol and other garbage. I worked on a saw this summer and got it running nicely on my gas and low and behold less than a week later I get it back with more carb problems. I was able to retune it for the mix he was currently running but man is it ever annoying. Then I end up looking stupid because the saw initially worked better than new upon completion of repairs, but worse than much worse thereafter. Little irritating to say the least.
 
This old CP70L is a runner. Fresh gas in tank couple squirts into carb later she runs on her own. Amazed how well it starts and runs with the decompression lever on. Runs a lot perkier with it off of course. Now to get a b&c it deserves. Hoping to use the one off my jonsered as i have lots of good chain for it
Having fun here in sunny Alberta
 
I've never heard of a cylinder (on a saw not used for racing) burning through in area lacking plating..., especially below the ports. Additional flaking occurring, possibly (but not necessarily imminent, either). Bare aluminum cylinders with plated pistons were common not that many years ago. I may be all wet, but have never worried about small areas of missing plating.

I would not use acid to clean up any cylinder with questionable plating or aluminum exposure. It will eat any exposed aluminum and destroy an otherwise perfectly salvageable cylinder that may only have some incidental streaking or gouges along with the typical aluminum x-fer that can be easily removed by any number of simple methods. Traditional honing should be avoided as it is too aggressive. 220 grit paper would be a good start to see what you can remove easily just using a drill with a split mandrel for the paper. You may be surprised at how well it cleans up while also putting a much more positive (and economical!) spin on the matter.

I tried a flap of 220 sandpaper on a mandrel last night to see if I could clean things up. Though the main part that I originally called 'pitting' does act like aluminum transfer (a pick rubbed across it catches on the outer edge, not 'in' it) the sandpaper didn't seem to do anything to it. I didn't go too long since I really don't know what I'm doing and didn't want to wreck anything.

I'm going to run by a cylinder head repair place later today with it and see what he thinks.

Thanks,
Rob
 
I just received back from US Chrome my SP125c cylinder. Man Mark does such good work. I was checking the ring end gap and it was spot on if not a little on the tight side. This saw is going to be a beast when I get it back together. I am going to say that the compression will be close to the 200psi range. I just wished I had a machine shop and the knowledge to be able to shave the cylinder down and get the squish good and tight. This thing would rock.

Brian
 
Being a uniblock it's impossible to shave the cylinder down. Although i'm sure
a good machinist might be able to cut the head off and make a new one that
would bolt on like a Kart motor. I spoke with a guy a few years ago that used
to race 797's and he used to make a insert that he glued and screwed in the
head dome to increase comp. He was racing in stock classes from what I seem
to remember.
 
Cutting the bottom of the cylinder is doable. The problem is now you have messed with the port timing. I have not looked at the port timing on these saws but as many people that have tried to improve these saws with little to no success my bet is the timing is on the edge now and messing with it would only hurt it rather than help it. But like I said I wished I could somehow get the squish down to about .008 or find a domed piston and that saw would really rip. Finding someone that could forage you a piston then you could cut the block down.

Brian
 

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