Was told some type of hickory but I don’t really know. Not too good at identifying trees.
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McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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Was told some type of hickory but I don’t really know. Not too good at identifying trees.
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Haha that was my only option, I swapped to 3/8 pitch and I don’t have a chain yet for my 36” roller nose.
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As the supply of MAC bars dry up, a man has to improvise.
I usually try to keep it out of sight.
Tempted to buy a stencil and repaint it. Ron
PS No new pictures today due to no cutting - rain.
That's why I put an Oregon power match on mine. Btw, if your looking for something that mounts up without mods, the new echos run the d176 mount that most Macs use
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I just picked up a like new 27 year old CS-8000 with a never mounted 36" bar - looked to me to be a bolt on - just a little long for my use on the PM800 as I have these already mounted bars at my disposal 33", 36", 42" and 50 something":
Ron
usmcbuckwild
ArboristSite Operative
Is there a breakdown of parts that are interchangeable between models? I am working on my 840 and those specific model parts are hard to come by.
Thanks!
Thanks!
OldDeadWood
ArboristSite Operative
Got my 125 up and running today! Missed her!
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"STIHL" Paint it black! Nice saw though.
Willeywoodcutter
ArboristSite Lurker
So guys in having a hard time with my mac..I put the thing back together and it ran but then it seized up...great so I take it apart and the needles fell out of the dam piston bearing mind you I tried reusing them.
Im just wondering if anyone knows why this would happen Im gonna get new bearings and try again but I really don't want this to happen again if Im installing them wrong or something anybody got any advice for me really want to get this saw running and cutting
Im just wondering if anyone knows why this would happen Im gonna get new bearings and try again but I really don't want this to happen again if Im installing them wrong or something anybody got any advice for me really want to get this saw running and cutting
Wwc, did you determine why it seized again? Bearings or leftover aluminum transfer? As to the bearings replace the them with NOS. Be careful to support the piston surfaces so you don’t break it:
Ron
Ron
New project picked up today. My first front tank. Got it home, gave it a shot down the carb and it popped. Won't run on it's own though. So a carb job and I guess these have a pump inside the gas tank??? Idk. But under all the grime she looks to be in great shape.
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Had one of Ron's 101b saws do that same thing. Had new bearings in it. When I pressed the piston pin in place it felt like it used the same amount of force as others I have pressed together but the piston pin slid to one side and let the bearings fall out locking it up.
Brian
Very disappointing when that happen to a 101.
Mark
Mark
Really appreciate the support, I’m sure you will love it! Unfortunately my supplier only has the one file size that’s comes with these for now :/
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Willeywoodcutter
ArboristSite Lurker
Yeah that sucks so hard..I hate the design I would love something more to hold the pin in place like some circlips or something this has happened twice now..Im lucky the cylinder isn't toast.
On my 850 the piston pin doesn't go all the way flush with the ends of the bearings either which doesn't make much sense to me..like you said Brian if it slides over the needles fall out..just scary to rely on nothing holding those needles or pin in place but a tight fit loll..someone should make some aftermarket kit with caged bearings and circlips I would buy it ha.
Are the needles supposed to have little pins on the end like in your picture if so mine are worn away..maybe that's the problem right there lol?
On my 850 the piston pin doesn't go all the way flush with the ends of the bearings either which doesn't make much sense to me..like you said Brian if it slides over the needles fall out..just scary to rely on nothing holding those needles or pin in place but a tight fit loll..someone should make some aftermarket kit with caged bearings and circlips I would buy it ha.
Are the needles supposed to have little pins on the end like in your picture if so mine are worn away..maybe that's the problem right there lol?
I have a document has the 840 in it and lists interchangeable parts . It is too big to attach here, so it is in your inbox in another forum O P E
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Thinknof it as a carnage debt paid to the god of Kart Saws. Reminds me of my drag racing days.
The needles in the 10 Series piston pin bearings do not have those turned down ends. There is a cage of sorts for the needles, but the are not actually contained in the cage, it just forms the outer race for the bearing and the piston pin is the inner race. It might be referred to as a "drawn cup" but I'm not sure if my terminology is correct.
By the book, you are supposed to use a new piston pin any time you press one out. Sometime I ignore the book...
Mark
By the book, you are supposed to use a new piston pin any time you press one out. Sometime I ignore the book...
Mark
Tomcurtis
ArboristSite Member
I had moment this weekend that made me.feel dumb. Been having an intermittant prob with pro mac 610. If im running it steady at the end of the first tank after you fill it its a no.go to start for bout ten min. Acts flooded even wetting exhaust screen with unburnt fuel. So I usually touch up chain smoke cigarette and take sip of coffe. Saw then fires right up and rjns until next long heavy run. Cutting by myself it never seems to have pronlemn cause of frequent stops to move brush split and load etc. Have been thru fuel system and seals etc no improvement. Finally light went on chainged ignition module. Problemn gone all good. Amazing how easy it is to over look something lol
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