I have a KMS4 that will run about 5 minutes, then the coil gets hot and it stops. Let it set for 15 minutes or so and you're good for another 5 minute run.
Mark
Mark
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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usmcbuckwild
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Received and replied. Thanks again
Willeywoodcutter
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Ok guys this saw is killing me...I put NOS bearings in it put it back together and it seized again because the pin slid over and the needles fell out again..
I don't get what I'm doing wrong I've put the saw together 3 times everytime the same thing happens..
So how are you supposed to install the piston pin so it doesn't slide out cause I don't know apparently..I just press it in with a c clamp but it always seems like it presses to easy and i can push it with my finger so its not a tight fit any tips are appreciated..btw I used Lil red barn pistons and pins maybe they are junk Idk hard to say if its the parts or the installer(me). End rant
I don't get what I'm doing wrong I've put the saw together 3 times everytime the same thing happens..
So how are you supposed to install the piston pin so it doesn't slide out cause I don't know apparently..I just press it in with a c clamp but it always seems like it presses to easy and i can push it with my finger so its not a tight fit any tips are appreciated..btw I used Lil red barn pistons and pins maybe they are junk Idk hard to say if its the parts or the installer(me). End rant
Either the wrist pin or the connecting rod have too much wear. You don't have enough interference to hold the wrist pin in the proper position; the fact that it moved easily should have tipped you off.
The service manual says if a new piston is used, the wrist pin should be replaced as well. In your case I expect you need to start with a new connecting rod too.
Mark
The service manual says if a new piston is used, the wrist pin should be replaced as well. In your case I expect you need to start with a new connecting rod too.
Mark
If you used a new pin then try the old one to see how tight it fits. Ron
Beetlejuice
Addicted to ArboristSite
Just being funny here, but sounds like a loose nut behind the controls
Can anyone guess what this model is? Photo from an upcoming auction
I don't think I'd try em a third time. Compare the original OEM pin with the LRB pin as Ron suggested. I'll go out on a limb and guess the LRB is significantly smaller in diameter. And how are the needles seizing the top end without damaging the cylinder beyond use-ability?
1-72?
Beetlejuice
Addicted to ArboristSite
I do believe that is a 1-70.
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Here's a 1-72 that I have. The saw in the auction pic could also possibly be one of the larger 7x's. Pic references for those seem scarce but I believe they may have had a yellow airbox cover?
I looked through a lot of pics and I thought it might be a 1-72 as well. Yours sure looks like the one in the pic.
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I remember the Omark testing area which you could clearly see from the road in the 70's and early 80's. It appeared that they used mostly what looked like 3 to 4 foot logs. Those were common log sizes by that time. Funny, I still drive by the same area every day.
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790?
Beautiful day to cut with a cool breeze, clouds and the mountains in the distance:
But it got hot quick - low 80's. I didn't bring any MACs as I was planning to cut small stuff. Not to worry, our local MAC man Brian brought some of his.
But even he got too hot - MAC was fine.
Ron
But it got hot quick - low 80's. I didn't bring any MACs as I was planning to cut small stuff. Not to worry, our local MAC man Brian brought some of his.
But even he got too hot - MAC was fine.
Ron
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