McCulloch Chain Saws

[2broke2ride]

Are you OK? Better make sure that's not a concussion....Seriously,you just don't know.

Ya, not the first time, wont be the last. I've got so many scars on my head it could be a road map. My wife is a nurse so shes tending to me.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

I like semi chisel chain it's a tad slower but overall chains last longer. I find when cutting bluegum I end up smashing the corners up and need to file a heap off the teeth and it's usually dirty too so semi makes sense for that.

You're on to something with the self feeding though 2broke it doesn't need a heap of weight but just a gentle push to help it along you can drop the rakers down further and it will self feed nicely but becomes grabby especially in gum. I tend to save the full chisel for pine and other soft woods

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I find that for whatever reason, I cannot get a semi chisel chain to self feed like full chisel.

You're right. Lower rakers helps, but it doesn't have that hard corner working for it like full chisel. Pretty well established that full chisel is faster chain.

I believe safety chain is best for a casual user/homeowner or the weekend guy for obvious reasons.But its pretty much worthless to those more experienced when you're trying to get something done instead of fighting it.

To be clear, just because a chain is semi-chisel doesn't make it safety chain. Far from it. On the other hand, there's also plenty of safety chain out there that's full chisel.

When I want to keep cutting in dirty wood, I use semi-chisel. If I'm cutting cleaner wood I use full chisel. My preference based on experience.

Last but not least, even safety chain can cut well when sharpened properly and the rakers are adjusted correctly.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

How does full chisel deal with oak? Haven't cut it for years n years.

I had a safety chain on my 800 and I couldn't stop it chattering real bad in gum until I cut all the bumpers off hehe good now.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Didn't mean to buy it eather was online by accident

 

[2broke2ride]

How does full chisel deal with oak? Haven't cut it for years n years.

I had a safety chain on my 800 and I couldn't stop it chattering real bad in gum until I cut all the bumpers off hehe good now.

Red oak is 90% of what I cut. Full chisel cuts it like a hot knife through butter.

 

[rwoods]

What he said ^. Square filed is even faster. Ron

 

[rwoods]

Brian, I saw your pictures in the 1010 thread. Thought maybe you posted there as an F150 is to trucks as a 1010 is to chainsaws. BTW your truck goes better than mine in 2wd. Ron

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Would love to learn square sometime just because.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I primarily use full chisel in red oak as well. Cut a lot of it, too.

 

[ThistleIA]

You're right. Lower rakers helps, but it doesn't have that hard corner working for it like full chisel. Pretty well established that full chisel is faster chain.



To be clear, just because a chain is semi-chisel doesn't make it safety chain. Far from it. On the other hand, there's also plenty of safety chain out there that's full chisel.

When I want to keep cutting in dirty wood, I use semi-chisel. If I'm cutting cleaner wood I use full chisel. My preference based on experience.

Last but not least, even safety chain can cut well when sharpened properly and the rakers are adjusted correctly.

I'm well aware of the differences between full chisel,semi chisel & safety chain. Main reason I don't bother with safety chain because I'd rather spend my time cutting instead of using it to modify something that don't work properly outta the box. The only exception I'll make to that rule is ripping chain,I know what works for me without fail & that is full chisel,round file.I've used square chisel some,but it does dull quicker in hard,dirty stuff,so I stick with round ground chain.Every 4-5 filings I bring the rakers down 2-3 strokes with a small triangular or flat file also.

I don't mind filing,gives me time to take a break,my back & shoulders are ready for one by then anyway.We all have different preferences,locations & woods so that's cool.

 

[heimannm]

Sunburst Yellow is a good match for the later PM saws, I found some Industrial Yellow (Krylon?) that was a pretty good match for the older yellow saws. I have found it necessary to apply one color first then a light coat of a darker (or lighter) one to try and match to old saws.

I like semi-chisel for all day cutting, particularly on the bigger saws when I will be cutting a large trunk that may have some rotten spots as they always seem to collect some dirt. Chisel is faster initially, but it falls off pretty quickly if the wood you are cutting has any dirt in the bark. When cutting big old cottonwood trees I may resort to chopping the bark off with an axe rather than dulling a chain or two just to block off a large round.

I am currently going through a Titan 50 for one of the fellows at work, looks like someone may have replaced the fuel lines but the oil lines were disintegrating like they always do on these Italian Mac's.



All cleaned up now, hopefully I will put it back together on Monday. The first time you work on one of these you swear you will never look at one again, but once you learn how they work they are not so bad. The coil wire was pretty loose so I will have to fix that.



Mark

 

[rwoods]

Thanks for all the comments on chains. Dogged in I have no issue with semi chisel except in those fallings where speed is a priority - a barber chair prone tree. Can’t beat it for dirty cutting or the ocassional nail. It was just aggravating the hound out of me today cutting in the piles left by the line clearance guys. Kept bouncing and tossing wood instead of going into a cut when I cut with the tip of the bar like I usually do in those situations. Having to add down pressure in awkward footing was also problematic. Like most of life, it has its trade offs.

Can’t wait to get my 700 back from Brian. I last ran it around 2010.

Ron

 

[rwoods]

I looked on the TSC website and did not see it. I found it by the gas cans and funnels. The SKU number is 32157. Here is a pic of it.
View attachment 576597

View attachment 576598

It feels like it is made out of rubber.

Brian

Two years ago, Brian and I were touting this spout. Since then, we have both experienced them swelling to the point you can’t tighten them and you can easily knock them off. Save your money for something better. Ron

 

[Brian Thacker]

Thanks for all the comments on chains. Dogged in I have no issue with semi chisel except in those fallings where speed is a priority - a barber chair prone tree. Can’t beat it for dirty cutting or the ocassional nail. It was just aggravating the hound out of me today cutting in the piles left by the line clearance guys. Kept bouncing and tossing wood instead of going into a cut when I cut with the tip of the bar like I usually do in those situations. Having to add down pressure in awkward footing was also problematic. Like most of life, it has its trade offs.

Can’t wait to get my 700 back from Brian. I last ran it around 2010.

Ron

Just ordered a fuel line and carb kitfor your PM700, should be here this week and hope to have it in your hands by the weekend. Brian

 

[Brian Thacker]

Brian, I saw your pictures in the 1010 thread. Thought maybe you posted there as an F150 is to trucks as a 1010 is to chainsaws. BTW your truck goes better than mine in 2wd. Ron

I just have more aggressive tires plus mine is a long bed, plus an older truck which is heavier, plus that old tractor tire full of water that I keep meaning to throw out in your front yard....LOL, plus 2 SP125Cs, A PM800, A PM6A, A PM10-10S, a Ms660, Plus fuel jugs, saw chains, tools. Peavey, Chains and such. Plus it's an old junker and I don't care to put a few dents and scratches on it. You would never know them from the ones that are already on it. It blends in perfectly at the junk yard. Last time I was there they mistake it for one of the junkers and it almost wound up in the crusher.

Brian

 

[Brian Thacker]

Two years ago, Brian and I were touting this spout. Since then, we have both experienced them swelling to the point you can’t tighten them and you can easily knock them off. Save your money for something better. Ron

Ron, I have been thinking about your spout delima. What about if you cut the threads off of the spout, then took the cap from the jug that you want to screw the spout on. Drill you a hole in the lid big enough to fit the spout into and now you would have hard threads to hold your spout on. Just a thought.

Brian

 

[rwoods]

Thanks. As soft as it is I could make it work with the jug cap. I am down to my last quart or so of bar oil. Need to stock up again if TSC ever puts it back on sale. Bought 10 gallons last time at $5 a gallon. Ron

 

[Brian Thacker]

You know I like the Walmart brand better. It is thinner and seams to pump better in my McCullochs. I noticed when I was working on your SP125C that it was empty of oil. I put the last of my Walmart bar oil in it and man it threw it out my the cup full. I put the last of the Walmart oil in your saw and I had a gallon of Husky oil on the shelve. I used it today ( I poured it into the blue jug) and I had trouble oiling all day. I really like it in the winter where it's thinner it flows better where I have a lot of trouble in the winter out of other brands in my McCullochs. I bought some a year or so ago because I just happened to be at Walmart the night before I was going to cut and did not want to make a stop at TSC the next morning and found it was thinner and flowed better in my McCullochs, so I have used it ever sense. It seams to lubricate well.

Super Tech SAE 30 Bar and Chain Oil, 1 Gallon
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Brian

 

[2broke2ride]

Thanks. As soft as it is I could make it work with the jug cap. I am down to my last quart or so of bar oil. Need to stock up again if TSC ever puts it back on sale. Bought 10 gallons last time at $5 a gallon. Ron

If you are looking for a spout to fit a bar oil jug. Buy an ez pour spout kit and one of their metal can adapter kits. The gray adapter in the kit fits right on a bar oil jug.