McCulloch Chain Saws

Wesspur
Rugged made
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Kevin,if you need oiler parts I'm pretty sure that Bob Johnson has them.He'll get you going.I found that he knows the Macs pretty much inside & out.If you've got a problem that you can't figure out,he'll talk you through it,a very knowledgeable guy.
Ed
 
As I posted earlier,I'm having problems with my Timberbear not wanting to pull fuel.Yesterday I pulled the muffler off to see what the P&C looked like.Other than the piston having a yellowish-brown color to it there was no scoring that's worth mentioning.I then checked the fuel line by disconnecting it from the carb & sucked on it.After getting a mouth full of fuel I deterrmined that there was no blockage.Next I was told that the choke tab could not be sealing properly & just bend it down a tad,so I did that.The impulse hole is clear.I've eliminated everything but the carb.I'm thinking of putting a different carb on it & see what happens.
Ed
 
2broke2ride said:
Yup, I dont think I've had a Mac project go right on the first try yet, but it keeps it interesting lol.

So I'm hoping someone has a parts carcass they can rob the manual pump from for me. It would be much appreciated.
Click to expand...

Here's a pump I scavenged from a 10-10. Part# 62261A in all the early IPL's and the '70 Master 10-10/10-10A IPL. 7-10 IPL's say 84156. Internal parts are the same except the 'o' ring number. Did find 84156 listed for later 10-10's. I'm guessing it'll probably work just fine. Shoot me a PM with your particulars and it's yours.

0312191454_resized.jpg
​
Also rescued another orphan 10-10 runner yesterday. 20 bux. Somethin' about em I can't resist..., kinda like a lost puppy.

0312191443_resized.jpg

0312191443a_resized.jpg​
 
Well the Timberbear is getting a littler more interesting.I pulled the carb today with intentions of puitting a different one on,but I noticed that the mounting gasket was covering up the impulse hole.I thought I had the p[roblem solved.Yeah right,I put the same carb back on & once again it won't pull fuel.I'll try a different carb tomorrow.
I'm converting an old 2-10 over to a PM10-10 tank handle to eliminate the air filter problem,or lack of I should say.This 2-10 must've been one of the early ones because it didn't have a DSP on it & no hole bored out for one.The oil tank reservoir didn't have the hole in the top for an allen screw to attach to the tank,so after careful measurement I drilled a hole for one.I guess I got lucky because it lined up perfectly.Now I'm trying to get spark on the old girl.I pulled the points out to have a look & they're burnt beyond being usable anymore.I tried to clean them up with emery cloth,but you can only sand them for so long before they're toast.
Ed
 
PogoInTheWoods said:
Here's a pump I scavenged from a 10-10. Part# 62261A in all the early IPL's and the '70 Master 10-10/10-10A IPL. 7-10 IPL's say 84156. Internal parts are the same except the 'o' ring number. Did find 84156 listed for later 10-10's. I'm guessing it'll probably work just fine. Shoot me a PM with your particulars and it's yours.

Also rescued another orphan 10-10 runner yesterday. 20 bux. Somethin' about em I can't resist..., kinda like a lost puppy.

Click to expand...
PM sent
Thank you!!!
 
@2broke2ride and @Brian Thacker I discovered that my unused adapter puts enough squeeze on the filler cap to hold it tight. In fact it was a little difficult to get the threads started. No cutting required. Just cram the filler cap into the adapter and screw on the jug. Now if TSC would just put their oil on sale. I probably have less than a day's worth of oil left. I read the oil specs on TSC's website - mineral oil between 10-15 weight. Their winter blend is 10 weight mineral oil. MAC calls for 30 weight IIRC. Ron

IMG_4197.JPG IMG_4199.JPG
 
Ok experts, I think i need a reality check here before I smash this 7-10!!!!!!
Sorry in advance for the novel.
The fuel line arrived today so I did a temporary repair on the manual.oil pump and installed the fuel line and headed out to tune.
I seem to have it running OK but I am struggling with the low speed mixture and idle speed adjustment it has always been my understanding that if you have a hesitation coming off idle you need to open the low needle till it goes away. The problem I am having is that if I tune the low rich enough to eliminate the hesitation, the saw wont idle and the hesitation never really totally goes away. I actually went so far as to bend the little tab on the throttle arm that the idle speed screw pushes on to get a little more idle speed out of it.
To me, it is still acting like a air leak but I swear, if I have to pull this saw down one more time and buy one more gasket set, I'm gonna lose it.

Just a recap. The saw is rebuilt, NOS piston and rings, all new gaskets, crank seals, OE walbro carb kit. I had similar but worse problems after the rebuild last year and got frustrated with it and shelved it. Fast forward to a week ago. Got it down and pressure tested it. Found the crankcase leaking where the motoseal didnt seal in several spots and the air box gasket installed wrong causing an impulse leak. Thought I had it, pulled it all the way back down, resealed everything another new set of airbox gaskets and this time I coated them with Indian head. And now here we are.
Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
 
And while we are on the topic of things not going right. I had the 1-86 running like a top last week, just needed to make some test cuts with it. Went out to do that tonight and its starving for fuel[emoji35] wont rev out have to feather the choke to keep it running etc. Has a new fuel wick, fuel line, and one of those Chinese Tillotson clone carbs that I was duped into buying by guys raving about them on the facebook groups.
At this point, I think I'm just gonna get a kit and rebuild the Tilly that came with the saw. Lesson learned.
 
2broke2ride said:
And while we are on the topic of things not going right. I had the 1-86 running like a top last week, just needed to make some test cuts with it. Went out to do that tonight and its starving for fuel[emoji35] wont rev out have to feather the choke to keep it running etc. Has a new fuel wick, fuel line, and one of those Chinese Tillotson clone carbs that I was duped into buying by guys racing about them on the facebook groups.
At this point, I think I'm just gonna get a kit and rebuild the Tilly that came with the saw. Lesson learned.
Click to expand...


I agree.While I admit never trying one of those Chinese knockoffs,I have rebuilt a few Tillotsons over the years & know what works.Sometimes ''shortcuts'' may work fine,but in my case I've had more bad luck than good trying various quick fixes or substitutions.I find that out too late it seems.
 
A different carb on the 7-10 may tell the tale. I generally adjust my lo jet with the idle adjust screw set to a fairly high idle then go for the highest rpm in each direction from about 1 turn out until it drops off on both sides and then dial it up about an 1/8 to 1/4 turn richer from the clockwise side if that makes sense. Then I tweak from there for the best throttle response. Usually end up pretty close to what the shop manual adjustment procedure recommends for any given carb, but there are always exceptions.
 
Yeah Kevin,I've not had very good luck with those Chinese knock off carbs either.The rebuild kits I've found that I've got to have the old gaskets & diaphragms laid out in front of the computer & go over therm one by one comparing them to the ones in the Chinese kits.Half the time they're not stamped out properly.I bought some HDB kits last summer & had to send them back because of that.The seller kept on selling them even though they weren't correct.
I'm having my woes with no spark on my 380.Originally the condenserr was fried because the wire had a bare spot & it shorted out on the frame.I believe this caused some kind of a back feed to the coil shorting out the secondary on it,but I'm not a certified electrical genius,so I can't prove my theory.Fast fwd to today.I put a new condenser on it a couple of months ago & got busy with other saws.The points got replaced today wioth new ones & a goodf used coil from Bob Johnson.I went to turn the flywheel over by hand & I have no spark.I've got a couple of things to check on tomorrow.
Ed
 
I feel bad about this 2broke, i had a great day cutting a blow down at my dads house. Cut up an apple tree with my 7-10a. First time i used it. Been tinkering with it for a few weeks. Had the wrong carb on it that needed rebuilt. Had an sdc 37 which is for a 10-10. Found a 38a on ebay for 20.00! Nos! Perfect fit. Had a good air filter, fuel line was fine. Has a few unique features.....roller style pull starter, has the start/stop/decompression switch like the 2-10 or 3-10, and its made in belgium. Has a large air filter cover for a cold weather duct. And says "super 7-10a" as the model. It runs great! Pretty clean. Put a old stock bar on it. I see what everyone likes about them. Great saw and 3 lbs lighter tban a pm700. Sorry again 2 broke but im excited. 20190313_193013.jpg 20190313_192034.jpg 20190313_192019.jpg
 
vinnywv said:
I feel bad about this 2broke, i had a great day cutting a blow down at my dads house. Cut up an apple tree with my 7-10a. First time i used it. Been tinkering with it for a few weeks. Had the wrong carb on it that needed rebuilt. Had an sdc 37 which is for a 10-10. Found a 38a on ebay for 20.00! Nos! Perfect fit. Had a good air filter, fuel line was fine. Has a few unique features.....roller style pull starter, has the start/stop/decompression switch like the 2-10 or 3-10, and its made in belgium. Has a large air filter cover for a cold weather duct. And says "super 7-10a" as the model. It runs great! Pretty clean. Put a old stock bar on it. I see what everyone likes about them. Great saw and 3 lbs lighter tban a pm700. Sorry again 2 broke but im excited. View attachment 722759 View attachment 722760 View attachment 722761
Click to expand...
Glad yours is running good for you.
Mine also has the roller starter cover and the combo start/stop decomp but not that crazy air filter cover LOL.
 
I saw a similar Super 7-10 two years ago, one recently sold on e-Bay for $422 + shipping. Very cool indeed. I have an SP60 with the cold weather kit including the duct.

Finished up the Titan 50 today that I have been working on for a fellow at work. Perhaps if it dries out a bit in the next few days I will make some test cuts before I hand it back.

I also picked up a couple of off color saws this week, the 044 is now a runner, I will try to look at the 045 tomorrow.

20190313_181613.jpg

Mark
 

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