McCulloch Chain Saws

[Timdog]

A couple of mine and that's what the chain looks like

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[Huskybill]

I’m thinking about there history? Yup that’s it.

 

[heimannm]

Bob Johnson has them available, 607 638 9297.

Mark

 

[Brian Thacker]

Well part of Blind Squirrel Felling was out at the wood lot today cutting. I have been under the weather lately and was needing some chainsaw therapy, Some MAC therapy. Cut for a while but it got just too hot to cut. I only used my 10-10S but it felt great to have a saw back in my hands. Was not cutting big stuff, just had the 20" bar on it, but what a saw. I really like that saw.


I have been working on Ron's SP125C. Needless to say it had a few leaks. I am replacing all seals and gaskets. It should be 100% for the up coming firewood season. This is Ron's favorite 125 so it has to be right.

It's in a bunch more pieces right now but should be as good as new when I finish.

Speaking of Ron. What a great and wonderful person. This is my reward for going down to Mississippi and getting his new to him firewood tractor. When he get's it setup setup, it will be great. Very nice tractor.

A PM805. with very few hours. I was going to take it with me today but I want to give it a good cleaning and the manual oiler rod seams like has came out of socket and needs to be put back into place. Nothing big, just a few mins fix and it will be a great saw. I so love the MAC 82cc saws. Ron turned me onto them a few years ago with a PM800 and they have been my favorite saw ever sense. He also threw in a brand new 24" MAC bar. Can not beat that combo. Thank You Rom.

Brian

 

[rarefish383]

Well I'm working on a 1-41, put the new coil kit in it ... Haha no spark.
I believe that leaves the points , even though I filed ,gapped and set them its the only original part in the ignition system left. I have a ignition chip but I'm hesitant to use it after reading others misshaps.View attachment 743711 View attachment 743712 View attachment 743713 View attachment 743714

For what it's worth. Someone over at HOH complained they had several chips go bad almost instantly. It's been a while so I'm short on memory. I think he mentioned that the instructions said not to mount it too close to the coil. Then he said he couldn't find a place to mount it, so he mounted it on top of the coil. I put one on one of my Super 1050's more than ten years ago and it still runs fine. I ran the wire out from under the flywheel and screwed it to a small hole that was already in the case. Then my JD 265 started running bad and the guy I bought it from said it was the electronic module. He also said not to get it from JD they were very expensive. I told him I had an extra Nova II. He said that it would work. I ran that tractor 4-5 hours a day all mowing season for almost ten years, and it just went bad. Got a new Nova II for $16, and the tractor is running fine again. So, the 3 chips I've used worked flawlessly. Just try to mount them as far from the coil as you can.

 

[rarefish383]

 

[Brian Thacker]

Well here is my experience with the Nova II chips. When I first got into the MAC biz was when I first heard of them. At that time I had 2. 10-10's and a PM-55. I thought heck get rid of the points, that would be a great thing, so I put them in each of my saws. They worked great and seamed to have a hotter spark and started better. I placed them where the capacitor was mounted. I got the PM-55 out and it was great until it just shut off, no spark. Got one of the 10-10's out and it ran good for a while and quit. No spark. Both was the chip bad so I went back to the points. A couple years later I wound up with a 510 that had no spark and it was the points and they were burnt up. Well I had the chip out of the 10-10 that was the last 10-10 that I had switched back to points that the chip was still good. I thought until I found a set of points for the 510 I would put that chip in, just to start it and hear it run. I also had read somewhere that heat would kill those chips so I mounted it in front of the fuel tanks where there was little heat. It has ran 2 years with that chip in it without a problem.
So I do believe that heat will kill them and where I had them mounted on the first 10-10 and the PM-55 was just too much heat. I see them on mowers coming from the factory and they work well for a long time. I think I just mounted the ones on the 10-10s and the PM-55 in an area where there was too much heat. I have thought about giving them another try, but for now the points are working fine and I do not want to get out and have problems.

Brian

 

[edju1958]

For the longest time I was a chip advocate simply because they were the newer of technology compared to points which have been around for well over 100 yrs.I also didn't know how to properly clean & set the points till my good friend Tim (fossil) showed me how.Now I'm a points advocate,simply because they're tried & true.Some of the saws I've got I'm sure have the original set of points in them for well over 50 yrs.,& after tey were cleaned & re-gapped I'm sure they'll be good for another 30 + yrs.I'm a firm believer in - if it ain't broke don't fix it.So if the points are still working after all these yrs.,why change to something that could be uncertain?The original reason why the chip was developed was to replace points that were NLA.In this instance I can see using a chip.
Ed

 

[Huskybill]

Unpackaged another mcculloch/ Montgomery’s wards today. With a short bar. The little eager beaver. I have another one in the mail with a stone sharpener.

 

[2broke2ride]

For the longest time I was a chip advocate simply because they were the newer of technology compared to points which have been around for well over 100 yrs.I also didn't know how to properly clean & set the points till my good friend Tim (fossil) showed me how.Now I'm a points advocate,simply because they're tried & true.Some of the saws I've got I'm sure have the original set of points in them for well over 50 yrs.,& after tey were cleaned & re-gapped I'm sure they'll be good for another 30 + yrs.I'm a firm believer in - if it ain't broke don't fix it.So if the points are still working after all these yrs.,why change to something that could be uncertain?The original reason why the chip was developed was to replace points that were NLA.In this instance I can see using a chip.
Ed

I'm starting to think I need a lesson too. I struggle with them. My pioneer 600 that I'm worki g on has good strong spark and I got it running but it needs crank seals. I'm hesitant to go near the points for fear of losing spark. My 1-52 ran when i got it but i wanted to proactively replace the cranks seals, all i did was remove and reinstall/gap the points and it never made spark again. Got frustrated and put a module in it.

 

[edju1958]

I'm starting to think I need a lesson too. I struggle with them. My pioneer 600 that I'm worki g on has good strong spark and I got it running but it needs crank seals. I'm hesitant to go near the points for fear of losing spark. My 1-52 ran when i got it but i wanted to proactively replace the cranks seals, all i did was remove and reinstall/gap the points and it never made spark again. Got frustrated and put a module in it.

If the condenser was original it probably went bad.I'll just bet if you put those points back in with a new condenser you'd be back in business again.Do you have a capitance tester?It'll tell you if your condenser is bad.
Ed

 

[rarefish383]

Well here is my experience with the Nova II chips. When I first got into the MAC biz was when I first heard of them. At that time I had 2. 10-10's and a PM-55. I thought heck get rid of the points, that would be a great thing, so I put them in each of my saws. They worked great and seamed to have a hotter spark and started better. I placed them where the capacitor was mounted. I got the PM-55 out and it was great until it just shut off, no spark. Got one of the 10-10's out and it ran good for a while and quit. No spark. Both was the chip bad so I went back to the points. A couple years later I wound up with a 510 that had no spark and it was the points and they were burnt up. Well I had the chip out of the 10-10 that was the last 10-10 that I had switched back to points that the chip was still good. I thought until I found a set of points for the 510 I would put that chip in, just to start it and hear it run. I also had read somewhere that heat would kill those chips so I mounted it in front of the fuel tanks where there was little heat. It has ran 2 years with that chip in it without a problem.
So I do believe that heat will kill them and where I had them mounted on the first 10-10 and the PM-55 was just too much heat. I see them on mowers coming from the factory and they work well for a long time. I think I just mounted the ones on the 10-10s and the PM-55 in an area where there was too much heat. I have thought about giving them another try, but for now the points are working fine and I do not want to get out and have problems.

Brian

I haven't put a chip in a saw since the 1050. If points are available, I stick with the points too. I've found that original points last darn near forever. But, I hate sanding and filing them. Maybe I don't get them smooth enough. Seems filed points don't last long. Just saying my limited use of the chips were good experiences.

 

[sawfun]

If the condenser was original it probably went bad.I'll just bet if you put those points back in with a new condenser you'd be back in business again.Do you have a capitance tester?It'll tell you if your condenser is bad.
Ed

This + 1 Some of us grew up on points and know they are reliable. Old coils, or more often, condensors go bad, new ones are almost never a problem. Back in the day condensed rarely gave an issue. Chips bother me a lot more than points. Points must be clean and free of oil. Be aware that some electical spray cleaners have a lubricant that should be removed from the surface of the points or they won't work.

 

[Huskybill]

We’ve used the atom chip for decades. I have an old blue c5 homelite I’d like to put a chip in it.
Let no saw die before it’s time. I like the smell of the old 30wt oil when these old timers first start up. They smell like a saw perfume........chip it and run it then shelve it. I love America.

 

[rarefish383]

We’ve used the atom chip for decades. I have an old blue c5 homelite I’d like to put a chip in it.
Let no saw die before it’s time. I like the smell of the old 30wt oil when these old timers first start up. They smell like a saw perfume........chip it and run it then shelve it. I love America.

My C72 smells like Stihl 50:1 synthetic.

 

[sawfun]

We’ve used the atom chip for decades. I have an old blue c5 homelite I’d like to put a chip in it.
Let no saw die before it’s time. I like the smell of the old 30wt oil when these old timers first start up. They smell like a saw perfume........chip it and run it then shelve it. I love America.

I had an Atom module on an 1130g that ran well until in wood then it would cut out with a strange regular miss.

 

[ncrile]

Not sure if this is the correct place for a"please help Identify this old McCulloch" Moderator may want to relocate.

Ive got this old

Mac w

ith a bore of 2.27" and

stamping of 66019 on the case. Any info appreciated.

 

[ncrile]

I am not good at this

 

[heimannm]

The bore would suggest a 797 but I don't see the automatic oiler on the top of the oil tank. The block has obviously been replaced but the number does not agree with what I have for the 797 (66251). Saw has been reworked a time or two...

Mark

 

[ncrile]

The bore would suggest a 797 but I don't see the automatic oiler on the top of the oil tank. The block has obviously been replaced but the number does not agree with what I have for the 797 (66251). Saw has been reworked a time or two...

Mark

It does have an auto Oiler simelar to the 795, 797. It doesn’t have the decompression valve.