Thanks, Tim. I will try that. Ron
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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I can get it installed on 2 shoes then when I try using screwdriver to stretch spring into 3rd shoe the spring unhooks and it all comes apart. I even tried using 2 pairs of needle nose vice grips to hold spring in place in the 2 shoes, but then I just can't pry spring into place on a 3rd shoe. I honestly think if I could just get it on 3 shoes there would be enough installed that the 4th would be pretty easy.
Geeze, that's tight. I was also thinking of screwing together a small square box that would help hold everything from sliding around. This is where you need one of the guys to spill the secret, I'd like to know for future reference too.
Boxing it in is a good idea. The shoes do have to be pulled out slightly for spring to fall in groove then pushed in so springs stays down. That's what makes such a challenge. Also the hooks on end of spring don't stay together well. It takes about all my strength to stretch this spring, it's stupid tight!
Should I rering it or clean it up and go with what I've got. There was hardly any residue left of sealant at all.As promised here are the pics. No scoring in cylinder or on exhaust side of piston. Just a lot of carbon build up.
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Definitely re ring it while it's in bits for sure. Chuck the rings in the bore and measure I'm sure its going to be huge gap. The rings alone are cheap as
Put the ring in the bore and measure the ring end gap. There should be a spec in the manual that will tell you how much ring end gap is acceptable. If it is well with in spec I would not fool with it. If it is further than half way worn, I would replace it.
Brian
Brian
Aaron Baugher
New Member
Hi all, I'm new. I bought this bad boy at a farm sale last weekend. (I have the air screen and covers; they were just off when I took the picture.) Thanks to a link I found here to a chainsaw database, I was able to determine that it's a McCulloch 33B, manufactured in 1954-6. I only paid $12 for it, so I'd like to figure out if it can run before spending another $30 on a manual. The starter pulls well and feels like there's compression, and it'll fire if I pour some gas in the carb, but then it dies. So I'm thinking it doesn't get fuel up from the tank, but I'm not even sure if I'm trying to start it right, because I haven't identified a choke. The left-hand red arrow points to a flat arm that pivots back and forth behind the carb. Anyone know what that is? The other arrow points to where the spark plug is, and I can pull the boot off of it with a needlenose pliers, but I can't get the boot out of the way in there to get a socket on the plug. Seems like I'm missing something there too; is there a trick to getting at the spark plug? Thanks, really hoping I can get this thing running for the winter.
Go to the beg for manuals and they may have something.
Brian
Brian
You could try positioning three shoes and the spring in the clutch hub and then clamp it in a vise to hold it together while working the fourth shoe into position under the spring.
So the 10-10 I picked up the other week is running buuuut not tooo well though. It was kinda sluggish off the bottom so figured it needed a carb kit so threw on the fixed hi jet tilly I have off the 7-10 n still not good. The 7-10 ran like a demon with that carb but was getting a tad lean for my liking. The 10-10 is spitting a heap of gas out the throat and I'm thinking it's due for a refresh
it feels ok to pull over though but haven't tested it
it feels ok to pull over though but haven't tested it
I can't clamp my vise across 3 shoes because this is a right hand start saw, it's not smooth enough across the back side.
Id put the whole thing together in a lid/ mason jar and get a wooden cone from a hobby /art store and slide the spring down the cone.
Just my opinion so take it for what it is.
So the 10-10 I picked up the other week is running buuuut not tooo well though. It was kinda sluggish off the bottom so figured it needed a carb kit so threw on the fixed hi jet tilly I have off the 7-10 n still not good. The 7-10 ran like a demon with that carb but was getting a tad lean for my liking. The 10-10 is spitting a heap of gas out the throat and I'm thinking it's due for a refresh
Have you looked down the intake yet? And thanks for the pictures of milk tube I know a couple of dairy farmers I'll see what I can round up here.
What's that have to do with it?
Maybe someone here can help this guy - https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/mcculloch-sp81-ignition-module.334649/#post-7018242
Ron
Ron
I'm right below you in SC where did you end up getting your tubing?Jethro, that milk line tubing is fantastic!! It seems extremely durable and is a tad thicker than any factory rubber grip so its great to hold onto. I actually put that handle onto the 6-10 i used. I really like it. Highly recommend it to anyone!
Yeah worth a shot. That's the right size printed on the tube. The regular milk line is smaller id and thicker wall I couldn't get to go on at all.
Yeah checked the bore it looks okish I have a 700 in worse nick and it's a ripper the piston looks nice on intake but haven't pulled the muffler
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