McCulloch Chain Saws

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I'm quitting for the day. Got other things to do. Pretty frustrated.

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Not sure who that's directed to fossil since we seem to have 2 saws here being discussed with somewhat similar no start issues.

On my 790 I did have flywheel off when I cleaned/adjusted points. No sheared key there.

As far as andrewsc 10-10 problem. I had a similar flooding issue on my sp81. Tell you what, that saw wouldn't fire no matter what I did until I sorted that issue. At first I cleaned carb to no avail. Then I took carb back off, pulled needle again to make sure seat was spotless. Then I adjusted the lever so it was even with the carb body like somebody just suggested. Problem solved and saw fires instantly. Of course then I learned saw has an air leak, so be revisiting that one later.
 
Not sure who that's directed to fossil since we seem to have 2 saws here being discussed with somewhat similar no start issues.

On my 790 I did have flywheel off when I cleaned/adjusted points. No sheared key there.

As far as andrewsc 10-10 problem. I had a similar flooding issue on my sp81. Tell you what, that saw wouldn't fire no matter what I did until I sorted that issue. At first I cleaned carb to no avail. Then I took carb back off, pulled needle again to make sure seat was spotless. Then I adjusted the lever so it was even with the carb body like somebody just suggested. Problem solved and saw fires instantly. Of course then I learned saw has an air leak, so be revisiting that one later.

Directed to Andrew. I asked about the metering lever height and he responded all was well there . I should have quoted his post to avoid confusion.
 
Not sure who that's directed to fossil since we seem to have 2 saws here being discussed with somewhat similar no start issues.

On my 790 I did have flywheel off when I cleaned/adjusted points. No sheared key there.

As far as andrewsc 10-10 problem. I had a similar flooding issue on my sp81. Tell you what, that saw wouldn't fire no matter what I did until I sorted that issue. At first I cleaned carb to no avail. Then I took carb back off, pulled needle again to make sure seat was spotless. Then I adjusted the lever so it was even with the carb body like somebody just suggested. Problem solved and saw fires instantly. Of course then I learned saw has an air leak, so be revisiting that one later.
I did that on my 10-10s

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Try another plug. Those rare things still happen now and then.

Ron
As Ron said, put a new spark plug in it. I have seen several bad plugs in my days.
I was having problems with my Arctic Cat. I rebuilt the carb thinking it was bad because it had set a few months without being ran. I could clean the plug and shoot it with a little starting fluid and it would pop and sometimes run for a second or two. I could take the plug out and it was wet. I could clean it up and it had nice fire. Put it back in and it would pop again and nothing. I checked everything, even cleaned the carb again and I have a ultrasonic cleaner. I tried everything except a new plug. I was in town getting a few parts and thought whet the heck, I will get a new plug for it while I am here. A few days later I put the plug in and it fired right up and ran like a clock. Needless to say I took that old plug and beat it with a hammer to make sure it did not ever get used again.

Brian
 
As Ron said, put a new spark plug in it. I have seen several bad plugs in my days.
I was having problems with my Arctic Cat. I rebuilt the carb thinking it was bad because it had set a few months without being ran. I could clean the plug and shoot it with a little starting fluid and it would pop and sometimes run for a second or two. I could take the plug out and it was wet. I could clean it up and it had nice fire. Put it back in and it would pop again and nothing. I checked everything, even cleaned the carb again and I have a ultrasonic cleaner. I tried everything except a new plug. I was in town getting a few parts and thought whet the heck, I will get a new plug for it while I am here. A few days later I put the plug in and it fired right up and ran like a clock. Needless to say I took that old plug and beat it with a hammer to make sure it did not ever get used again.

Brian

I had one of those NGK plugs in my Cat. It let me down way back in the bush. POS plugs but not much choice.
 
I've had no problems with NGK's and Stihl seems to favor them over Bosch these days as well -- probably price-based when you consider the millions of plugs involved. Not to say I won't run across a dud one day..., everyone does sooner or later regardless of manufacturer. A micro-crack in the insulator, lousy bonding, any number of little things can impede the function of a plug under various conditions. By no means should anyone consider a plug "good" just because it's new.

As the stories always seem to go..., "Good spark. Great compression. Rebuilt the carb twice. Used new mix. Checked flywheel key alignment. Did vac/pressure test. Even changed the ignition module just to be safe. Don't know what else it could possibly be."
 
I've had two plugs fail on me in ten years. Both were NGK's. I could care less on a chainsaw but on an ATV you had better have a spare.

I do remember back in the 60's and 70's when eight good plugs from Champion was cause to celebrate not having to return one.

They seem pretty good now.
We ran NGK's exclusively in my buddies alcohol funny car and my AA fuel.altered. They always ran great on my Yamaha sc500 and my cr500.
 
I'm right there with you Andrew. I wasn't able to make it to store today for a new plug, but robbed a champion DJ8 out of a known running saw. Nothing, no pop, no nothing.

I flushed motor with premix. Tried again nothing. Then rinsed some straight gas through motor trying to get out rest of storage oil. When I poured it out plug hole it looked nasty, came out quite oily. Did this a couple times and tried firing again on mix squirted down throat of carb. Still not even a pop.

Either I've still got too much crap in motor that's just smothering spark or this thing just don't have enough compression to pop it off.
 
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