You can buy them directly from Elder Rubber Company in Texas but the have a minimum order of 20 pieces. If you only want one or two is it better to get them from Bob Johnson.
Mark
Mark
I decided to go out and cut some with the 4-10. I made 2 cuts and realized I forgot my tuning screw driver in the garage. Walked back to the garage with the saw running in my hand, grabbed the screwdriver and headed back to the log pile. The saw died on the way to the log pile and i couldn't get it to restart. Back at the garage, spark would jump a spark plug but not my spark tester unless I spun the motor quite fast with my drill. I figured the chip died (have heard all the warnings) but wanted to try it anyway. So I cleaned up the original points and put them back I and gapped them. Had great spark. Put it back together and it fired right up. Great!! Had to go in for dinner, came out after dinner, saw fired but would die when I tried to rev it. Checked spark again and it is inconsistent unless I spin the motor fast with a drill. What am I missing here? Is this a coil issue? I've always had coils either fail or not.
Also, is this fuel cap repairable?![]()
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I worked on a few small saws this week so I will have some ready for sale when the uninitiated come through the shop.
This one needed fuel lines and a stop switch. Photos are before a thorough cleaning.
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I suspect someone left the brake on and could not understand why the chain wouldn't move even though they held the throttle wide open.
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This one has been sitting around for a while, like most of these 32/35/38cc models I had to replace the fuel and oil lines.
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Mark
Not to butt in here, but as others have said, check the wiring, and try a different plug. But something to check, is the coil lead. Make sure it doesn't have any wear or "bald spots" on it.
I remember working on a saw, that would do the same thing. It had good spark when testing (sometimes) but intermittent, or weak/no spark after running (unless pulled incredibly quickly). At idle, it would stall, try to rev it up, it would stall. After that, It would be difficult or just refuse to restart.
Turns out the lead had some slight wear, and was arcing off the cylinder, causing the whole problem. I'm not saying this is your problem, it's just something that's easy to check for.
I replaced the plug lead when I rebuilt the saw, the original was trashed. I used bulk 7mm solid core wire which was to big to fit in the coil socket so i had to strip some of the insulation. I also broke a chunk out of the coil socket trying to remove the old wire. I may be better off just finding another coil at this point.Not to butt in here, but as others have said, check the wiring, and try a different plug. But something to check, is the coil lead. Make sure it doesn't have any wear or "bald spots" on it.
I remember working on a saw, that would do the same thing. It had good spark when testing (sometimes) but intermittent, or weak/no spark after running (unless pulled incredibly quickly). At idle, it would stall, try to rev it up, it would stall. After that, It would be difficult or just refuse to restart.
Turns out the lead had some slight wear, and was arcing off the cylinder, causing the whole problem. I'm not saying this is your problem, it's just something that's easy to check for.
What solid core wire are you using?I replaced the plug lead when I rebuilt the saw, the original was trashed. I used bulk 7mm solid core wire which was to big to fit in the coil socket so i had to strip some of the insulation. I also broke a chunk out of the coil socket trying to remove the old wire. I may be better off just finding another coil at this point.
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The stuff I have came from tractor supply. It was a universal tractor wire set. It is braided steel core. I bought it off the clearance rack for 10.00 with no ends figuring it would be good for small engine plug wires.What solid core wire are you using?
Yup I've only been successful with 1 coil at not breaking the socket hole but the other 2 are good, just held in with epoxy or ultra black permtex.
I usually steal a condenser from 1 of the many mini mac series I find.
Accel racing wire fits in the socket well ,copper core . Its alittle pricey so if you want to try it again pm me and I'll ship you a peice.The stuff I have came from tractor supply. It was a universal tractor wire set. It is braided steel core. I bought it off the clearance rack for 10.00 with no ends figuring it would be good for small engine plug wires.
I used permatex and a small zip tie to hold the wire into the coil.
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Hiw are you getting that wire to fit the socket? The stock wire seems to be more like 6mm.Accel racing wire fits in the socket well ,copper core . Its alittle pricey so if you want to try it again pm me and I'll ship you a peice.
I ordered it from summit racing, but it messed with my radio too much. It's silicone coated, seems like the solid core wires don't have to have very thick insulation.Hiw are you getting that wire to fit the socket? The stock wire seems to be more like 6mm.
I guess I dont really understand what would be wrong with this wire, its braided, plenty of insulation, what more is there to it?
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I ordered it from summit racing, but it messed with my radio too much. It's silicone coated, seems like the solid core wires don't have to have very thick insulation.
North East Tennessee Saturday MAC Report
Conora virus concerns has cost us our inmates and has kept many of us at bay. Earlier this week I was asked to load wood today so I headed out early this morning in a slight drizzle. We have had rain off and on all week but I wasn't aware that we had an additional inch last night. I was one 4' log from a full second load when the Deere sank in the mud. Had to winch out, so I called it a day without even firing up a saw. Brian worked the lot with some success.
Some of you may have noticed the activated chain brake on my PM800 in last week's photos. My old nemesis has returned - the rivet had loosened. I did most of my cutting manually holding the chain brake back. I usually use some flagging tape for that purpose. Somehow I managed to lose the rivet and the trigger even though it sit flush against the brake band. Not sure how or where it happen. I didn't notice it until I got home so these parts are surely long gone. I salvaged replacement parts from another brake but the rivet would not tighten so I drilled and safety wired it. Not sure how long it will work before it too becomes too loose or the wire breaks, but it works for now. Also I am not sure how the previous owner managed to eat up the housing other than running a really loose chain. I assume that the rivet has a taper and the loss of housing thickness is why the replacement rivet won't hold. For now I am going to carry a spare old style trigger and spring in the tool box for future quick repairs.
Repair
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Quick repair parts
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Be Safe Out There.
Ron
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