McCulloch Chain Saws

[PogoInTheWoods]

Where did you get the seal(s)?

 

[Aaron Rybicki]

It’s SKF 6640 - 17x35x7. Got it new in box from eBay. I installed the same seal on a different 125 and had a similar issue. It’s almost like the outside diameter is just slightly too big and doesn’t really want to go in. With the other 125, the seal held but got pretty banged up on the way in with a non marring punch just to get it all flat. Never had a NEW seal give me as much trouble going in as these.

 

[Aaron Rybicki]

I actually was able to start it with a half handle (miracle) and this is what it sounded like.



Sounds okay to me but I still might get another new one and try again to be on the safe side. Has anyone else used a different kind of seal for the PTO side on a 125?

 

[Aaron Rybicki]

You can kinda see I tried to flatten it down with a non marring punch but it’s almost like folding over the outside of the bore.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

You shouldn't need to wrestle those seals in like that. And there's no way I'd even run a 10-10 with the seal like it is, let alone a freekin' 125! Get it straightened out and vac/pressure test that saw or find an OEM seal for it and vac/pressure test it anyway. Even if it seems to be holding now, the chances of it failing are way too great to take any chances. Spray some carb cleaner around it and see what happens.

 

[Aaron Rybicki]

You shouldn't need to wrestle those seals in like that. And there's no way I'd even run a 10-10 with the seal like it is, let alone a freekin' 125! Get it straightened out and vac/pressure test that saw or find an OEM seal for it and vac/pressure test it anyway. Even if it seems to be holding now, the chances of it failing are way too great to take any chances. Spray some carb cleaner around it and see what happens.

Yeah I’ll have to find an alternative replacement as that particular SKF 6640 seal is a bear to install. I actually did spray carb cleaner around it while it was running and it did not affect the rpms at all. So it probably is sealed for now but you’re right about it being likely to fail in the future.

 

[fossil]

Aaron,
You need to build the shaft up so it doesn't get caught on that step. You can turn the lip inside out and pop the garter spring on the seal off.

Use something to make sure it slips over that step. I use electrical tape but don't get any tape past the step.

Make sure you coat the seal lips with grease.

 

[Aaron Rybicki]

Aaron,
You need to build the shaft up so it doesn't get caught on that step. You can turn the lip inside out and pop the garter spring on the seal off.

Use something to make sure it slips over that step. I use electrical tape but don't get any tape past the step.

Make sure you coat the seal lips with grease.

I’ve been slapping the grease on liberally but I’m gonna buy another seal and give it a go again. I’ve done the electrical tape trick once before. I’ll definitely use it this second go around.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

I use a piece of microfiche for stepped cranks. Works great if you happen to have access to some..., or any old film / negative for that matter.
And ModifiedMark came up with a method of putting a chamfer on seal bores to accommodate stubborn aftermarket seals in similar cases. Not sure I'd want to experiment with it on a 125, but it may be an option to consider for at least getting the O.D. started below the case surface to minimize the flaring as the seal reaches 'flush'.

 

[2broke2ride]

Well she is all buttoned up. I did not get a chance to get out to the garage until around 9:30 tonight. I found another oil tank cover in my parts stash, made anew gasket, but it still leaked, so I took it back apart and gave it a light coat of Dirko.
The new bar came today so I spun a loop of chain for it and went to install it, realized I installed the clutch drum without the sprocket lol..... first time I've done that.
Anyway, the new Oregon 28" bar is sweet, cant wait to test and tune, its 10:30 now and dont really want to wake the neighborhood lol.

I would post pictures, but I cant seem to get it to work last few days. I'm wondering if it's my tapatalk app. It keeps saying "upload failed" every time.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk

 

[2broke2ride]

 

[edju1958]

Sweet lookin' bar & saw Kevin!

 

[rwoods]

I actually was able to start it with a half handle (miracle) and this is what it sounded like.



Sounds okay to me but I still might get another new one and try again to be on the safe side. Has anyone else used a different kind of seal for the PTO side on a 125?

Love that crackle. Ron

 

[mogulmasher]

After some clean up got the 380 running tonight. Didn't even open up the flatback, and the primer even works. Can't wait to try making a cut with it. Running Trufuel in this one, don't ever plan to put any ethy fuel in it.

 

[IHDiesel73L]

So my experiment of milling slabs with the PM650 is over. After doing 2 slabs it looks like I smoked the clutch. The saw revs up as normal but as the chain engages the wood it comes to a dead stop while the engine keeps going. First off-I have a 610 sitting in my shop with a good clutch. Do they interchange? Second, is possible to buy a new one? Can the existing clutch be adjusted at all?

 

[fossil]

The clutch is common to your 610. The clutch is held on via a taper fit like the flywheel but no key.

The clutches are pretty stout and are the same as those used in the 82cc 10 series models.

I wonder if yours has come loose and the crankshaft turning in the clutch happily tearing the crap out of something.

The nut holding it on should be torqued to 160 - 170 inch pounds.

There is no adjustment.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

The clutch is common to your 610. The clutch is held on via a taper fit like the flywheel but no key.

The clutches are pretty stout and are the same as those used in the 82cc 10 series models.

I wonder if yours has come loose and the crankshaft turning in the clutch happily tearing the crap out of something.

The nut holding it on should be torqued to 160 - 170 inch pounds.

There is no adjustment.

Reverse Thread, correct? Wouldn't want snap the end of the crank off.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

So my experiment of milling slabs with the PM650 is over. After doing 2 slabs it looks like I smoked the clutch. The saw revs up as normal but as the chain engages the wood it comes to a dead stop while the engine keeps going. First off-I have a 610 sitting in my shop with a good clutch. Do they interchange? Second, is possible to buy a new one? Can the existing clutch be adjusted at all?

Reverse thread.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

The clutch is common to your 610. The clutch is held on via a taper fit like the flywheel but no key.

The clutches are pretty stout and are the same as those used in the 82cc 10 series models.

I wonder if yours has come loose and the crankshaft turning in the clutch happily tearing the crap out of something.

The nut holding it on should be torqued to 160 - 170 inch pounds.

There is no adjustment.

My pm800 spun on the taper a bit. Heard a odd noise 1 day thought it was clutch slip. When I changed the rim sure enough it had spun and injured the crank a bit have tightened it up and used it a heap since with no issues so far but suspect it will bite me again 1 day and may need a crank or a skim on the lathe perhaps. Was thinking even grinding paste and work at it with the clutch maybe.

Everyone doing ok?

Nice 81 Kevin


Maint sup it was me with the hat that scored a mac. It was my hard hat n was using it at work the draughtsman saw it and yeah he had a pm10-10 in his mother in laws shed that he was sorting after hubby died. Was headed for the dump too.

Never thought of asking a clean clothed soft hand desk guy about saws but there ya go.

Dam nice 10-10 too the old boy had it new.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Good to see you, Jethro. Hope all is well down your way.