McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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Aaron Rybicki
ArboristSite Operative
Perfect. Thank you for the reference.
Tim - I compiled my list from the information in the McCulloch Engine Carburetors Usage Guide & Illustrated Parts List Revision 1, 2, and 3. Since McCulloch was always changing and updating there were later changes not addressed in the manual. I just threw the Zama on the list since I knew they used it on saws that came out after the last guide was published.
Ed - 3/32x3/16", get real Tygon if you can. I order it from McMaster Carr 25' and a time.
Mark
Ed - 3/32x3/16", get real Tygon if you can. I order it from McMaster Carr 25' and a time.
Mark
By the way - I am still having issues with the computer at home giving me an error, I think it actually says "Internet Blocked" or something like that when I try to access ArboristSite. No problems from my phone or from the computer in the museum office but I generally try to catch up at the end of the day and I am unable to do that currently. I am able to visit the other site, e-Bay, etc. from home without issues, only ArboristSite has this problem.
Mark
Mark
Aaron Rybicki
ArboristSite Operative
Is there any easy way to re-thread the threads on a crankshaft? I was attempting to remove a flywheel by tapping on the nut method (which has never ever failed me in the past) and it messed up some of the threads.. now the nut won’t screw all the way on...
That's weird...usually you'd mess up the thrrads on the end, not toward the middle.
Would the threads clean up with a die?
Which saw Aaron? I think the large frame saws are 7/16-20 and 10 Series are 3/8-24, you may be able to run a die over them to clean them up enough to work. Consider using a tall nut in the future.
Mark
Mark
Aaron Rybicki
ArboristSite Operative
Aaron. You might consider getting a thread repairing die. McMaster Carr has some reasonably priced ones. These dies straighten out the threads instead of recutting them.
I have a set I picked up at an auction and they work great. Really nice for cleaning up bar studs
https://www.mcmaster.com/rethreading-dies/thread-repairing-dies-for-tight-spots/
I have a set I picked up at an auction and they work great. Really nice for cleaning up bar studs
https://www.mcmaster.com/rethreading-dies/thread-repairing-dies-for-tight-spots/
Aaron Rybicki
ArboristSite Operative
Gonna give this a try. Thanks for the help guys!
Found me a complete set of vintage Craftsman thread cutting dies & taps,great condition in their sturdy plastic cases on ebay a while back,wouldnt be without them.Nice addition to my regular tap & die sets.
That looks fixable. Always have the nut virtually flush with the threaded shaft whenever tapping on it. And use a brass or polymer mallet.
I have an entire tool box of modified pullers now, because of my fear of messing up a crank that can't be bought" down the street ". There's a few not even shown in the box! I figured it was cheap to break pullers than cranks.
I have used the "smack with heavy object " method but I used a 2 lb brass drift.
The thead restoring tools do work well, and I've used them on lug studs.
I have used the "smack with heavy object " method but I used a 2 lb brass drift.
The thead restoring tools do work well, and I've used them on lug studs.
Mark,I found out by sheer dumb luck today the size of the fuel line for the 3216.I was at the "belt store" to get a new belt for my riding mower & just happened to ask if they carried any small fuel line.The attendasnt said "we sure do" & I hauled out a piece out of my pocket about 3 in.long & asked "this small"?He said yes & went & got a box of genuine Tygon fuel line.I asked what size it was & he told me 3/32 IDx3/16 OD.I took what he had which was 8.75 ft.,& it was cheap too at 78 cents/ft.I managed to scrounge up just enough to do the 3216 yesterday,but I had no more of that size left.
You can try a thread file for about 14.00
If you read my email reply to your question your would have known on Monday.
"Mine is a Power Mac 225-16. Is that the same thing?"
At that point we weren't sure if your model saw was the same as my 3216.
I should note this, it's probably the same as my garbage-picked 3818, which will almost certainly need fuel lines.
Yes,I have a 3816 (same engine,just different size bar) & it takes the same size line.I actually have 2 of them & one has a bad ignition module.A new module is $40 from Bob J.,but I'm not sure it's worth putting $40 into.
I checked out my roadside-special out a few weeks ago.... Has a bright spark and 150psi compression. Score.
It's just leaking bar oil all over the place, and some kind folks here told me about the oil line that always breaks.
