They're absolutely right.I've replaced the lines on 3 different models & they're all the same - E.B.2014,3816,& 3216.The only thing you gotta be watchful of is the throttle assembly,but once you've done one they're easy.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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Thanks! It's third in line on my workbench after the SP40 and my gas-leaking Mini Mac 25.
Ha! I dismantled my similar model to ascertain why it was leaking bar oil and not oiling the bar. There was no line from the oil tank to the pump.
The fuel and oil lines on those models are notorious for failing. Oil leaks are almost always due to a broken line from the oil tank to the mechanical oil pump located under the flywheel. While you are in there, always replace the fuel lines at the same time.
Still blocked from my notebook computer at the house: "Internet Connection Blocked" is the message I get. I have received some suggestions and will try again this evening...
Mark
Still blocked from my notebook computer at the house: "Internet Connection Blocked" is the message I get. I have received some suggestions and will try again this evening...
Mark
As long as you're that far,pull the flywheel & check the pump gears to make sure they're not stripped & check the line that goes from the pump to the bar pad,it routes itself behind the fuel tank.It's a very common problem for the line that goes from the tank to the pump to disintegrate.You should find a portion of the line along with the pick up inside the tank.
Yeah, there was some line in the tank with the filter on the end.
I didn't go any further dismantling it; I was eager to get it running again and no longer have it in pieces spread everywhere.
Now the oil comes out of the power head but the oil hole on the bar blocks up and it's not getting to the chain.
It could be one of 2 things - the pump has crud in it from the broken line,or the little passage has been blocked with crud from the broken line.You might be able to clear the oil passage by using a fine wire & feed it up in there,or you might be able to use something like PB Blaster to spray up in the oil passage too.If all else fails I think you'll have to pull the saw apart again & this time pull the flywheel to inspect the line that goes from the pump to the bar pad.I know how it is to pull a saw apart & think you've solved the problem fairly easily,but things can be disheartening at times.Too bad Mac (Jenn Feng) didn't use a better quality line.
Those saws were "genuine" McCulloch built after they moved to Tucson, AZ
Mark
Mark
My 3818 says Assembled in Mexico (Mac must have been outsourcing some work), so once it's fixed I am planning on calling it "El Choppo".
To clarify - the oil flows freely when the bar is not on. The little oil hole in the bar blocks up with sawdust/oil.
I'm thinking of drilling the hole out a little bigger.
Could it be the family? ( sabotage)Do they want to spend more time with you?
Can anyone help me decode the numbers on the chainless bar shown below? The only markings are "Made in Canada" followed by an 8 over 3207. I'd like to run .404 on it but I don't know if it's .050, .058, or .063.
Thanks for pointing that out to me Mark.I always thought the late model saws were made by Jenn Feng.I do know they took over the Mac name around 2000.I was told that Mac filed bankruptcy in '92,so from '92-2000 who was minding the store?
I've got a pair of E.B.2.0 (100 series) from the '70's that only have a manual oiler,but it doesn't work.I talked with Bob J.about this & he told me that if the saw was machined for the auto oiler,then it must have the auto oiler canister on it in order for the manual oiler to work.If there's supposed to be an auto oiler on the saw then there'd be a Y for the oiler to hook into by the bar pad on the inside by the oil tank,there is none.I don't know if there was an auto oiler canister on it at one time & it was removed to try to have a manual oiler only?How would I get the manual oiler to work?I've got a pic,but the quality sucks.
There's a thread going on with issues blocking you similar to what you are experiencing. It looks like some computers are being identified as hackers. Maybe you could join in if it would help.
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/403-forbidden-from-google-chrome.343225/
Well I got the 3216 all together today & can't tune it to save my life.It's in need of seals,so I'll strip it down & use the new coil on a 3816 that I've had for a while now.If the 3816 needs seals I'll be putting that nice new coil up for sale.
I find these plastic Macs hard to tune because it's so hard to get the screwdriver in the right place.
Some way of extending the screw would help.
Some way of extending the screw would help.
I didn't have a problem getting the screwdriver in the right place till it got dark out.Lol I'd put seals in the damn saw if I knew how to do it,but I don't know how,& I'm not about to sink more good money into bad.
Hey guys,
Would someone be able to help me to identify this McCulloch. It says Pro Mac and then the sticker with the number is damaged.
It has great spark, obviously cannot check compression without the side cover and rewind assembly.
If so would some have a IPL and a workshop Manual for it ?
Cheers
Would someone be able to help me to identify this McCulloch. It says Pro Mac and then the sticker with the number is damaged.
It has great spark, obviously cannot check compression without the side cover and rewind assembly.
If so would some have a IPL and a workshop Manual for it ?
Cheers
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What you have there is an 800. That ones gonna need some major TLC. I don't have manuals for that one. Most parts from 81, 805, 850, and DE80 will interchange.
