McCulloch Chain Saws

[sawfun]

Usually not on bigger trucks. Our 72 pick ups had smog pumps, but our 1 tons and up didn't. That particular particular Ford had a little 330 v8 in it and was the devil for dieseling. Dad used Amoco high test in every thing. Maybe that's why those saws from back then are still in such good shape, High Test, No Lead, and Amoco 2 stroke. The Amoco high test back then was called a White Gas and was certified for use in Coleman lanterns. Now adays I don't think I'd want anything in a lantern out of a gas pump.

I agree on gas being questionable in lantern as far as safety goes, though I have two colmans that are supposed to safely burn it. And yes, I remember in 79 that the Chevy 3/4 ton trucks had a catalytic convertor & burned unleaded. The 79 one tons had no cat so had no filler restriction in the filler spout.., and probably no EGR or charcoal canisters either.

 

[rarefish383]

Yeah, Dad had a local Ford dealer make him a "DEAL" on a 78 F600 and F250, that was so good he switched over from Chevy's. Dad gave me the old Chevy C30 12 foot stake body when he retired in 86. I took it to the auto parts store because the fan belt was all shredded and getting ready to brake. The guy asked which one I needed? I said there is only one on it, gets the fan and power steering pump. He argued that it was a 72 so it had to have a smog pump. I said nope, not on the C30's and up. He finally walked out and looked, one belt and no smog pump.

 

[sawfun]

Yeah, Dad had a local Ford dealer make him a "DEAL" on a 78 F600 and F250, that was so good he switched over from Chevy's. Dad gave me the old Chevy C30 12 foot stake body when he retired in 86. I took it to the auto parts store because the fan belt was all shredded and getting ready to brake. The guy asked which one I needed? I said there is only one on it, gets the fan and power steering pump. He argued that it was a 72 so it had to have a smog pump. I said nope, not on the C30's and up. He finally walked out and looked, one belt and no smog pump.

Nowadays, i cannot find a parts guy who doesn't insist I need auto transmission fluid for my 97 dodge with the 5 speed truck transmission. Even in the late 70's, I generally had to figure out what I needed at parts stores and often had to go behind the counter and show the clerk what it was and where to lookin the old parts catalog.

 

[heimannm]

"I remember reading stuff from years ago that some early 700s were points ignition. Have you ever seen this confirmed?"

I have a 1977 PM700 IPL pn 93714 that shows both points and electronic versions of the PM700. It states the electronic ignition was used on models with the serial number prefix 12-.

Mark

 

[rwoods]

@sawfun and @rarefish383, I am sure you heard about the parachutist who had a malfunction and with only a 1000 feet left he sees another man shooting upwards. As they closed in on each other, he yells in desperation, “Do you know anything about parachutes?” The other quickly replied, “No, do you know anything about lighting a Coleman stove.”

White gas appliances can be scary..

Ron

 

[Marvin Booysen]

Its got a right hand pull muffler on it and needs Mark sawdust shield.

@Jethro 2t sniffer, just curious, why do you call it a right hand pull muffler?
I don't know these box/reed type mufflers (3 holes in one corner), but have seen one on a Super 2-10 I think, and more recently on a purported "PM55" listed in the local classifieds (pic below, though mine has holes at the top). Both these saws have pull starters on the left side. Were these mufflers originally fitted to the older right hand pull saws?

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

"I remember reading stuff from years ago that some early 700s were points ignition. Have you ever seen this confirmed?"

I have a 1977 PM700 IPL pn 93714 that shows both points and electronic versions of the PM700. It states the electronic ignition was used on models with the serial number prefix 12-.

Mark

Interesting Mark.

@Jethro 2t sniffer, just curious, why do you call it a right hand pull muffler?
I don't know these box/reed type mufflers (3 holes in one corner), but have seen one on a Super 2-10 I think, and more recently on a purported "PM55" listed in the local classifieds (pic below, though mine has holes at the top). Both these saws have pull starters on the left side. Were these mufflers originally fitted to the older right hand pull saws?

View attachment 880614

It may not be the exact rule but those types sit flush with right hand starter. Vs a left they kinda stick out. I spose the boxy shield part could be removed

 

[heimannm]

That muffler cover is upside down.



Mark

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

That muffler cover is upside down.

View attachment 880749

Mark

Awww hahaha I never looked at it closely thought it was a rusty old busted 1

 

[rarefish383]

Bob called yesterday and said the parts for the 7-10 are on the way. I know it's been asked 100 times. Is there a consensus on what sealant to use on the case?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

DirkoHT or ThreeBond 1184 would be my choices for the case. Getting back in (if/when necessary) is much simpler with these products than some of the others.

Of course it depends on which oil you plan to use.

 

[vinnywv]

Dirko is popular.
Mcculluch used silicone. (Lasted many decades, hard to argue with success)

Either way use a very thin layer to coat both halves.

 

[mogulmasher]

Yes whatever you use make sure it's a thin layer to avoid a mess. I also lightly run a file across both surfaces to make sure you have a nice even mating surface. This also ensures a small amount will seal well.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

'Silicone' covers a whole universe of products. Just to be clear, only specifically formulated high temp/petroleum resistant silicone/rtv type sealants and gasket makers should be used if going the silicone route. Dirko is silicone based as are a variety of others. ThreeBond is a non-hardening synthetic liquid rubber based product. Both are exceptionally high quality solutions when properly applied.

 

[rarefish383]

When I pulled the case apart on the 7-10, the crank stayed in one half. There is a snap ring on the inside of the big bearing. I presume it is to keep the bearings from walking. Since the ring is on the inside, I presume the method is to set the crank in the journals, piston in cylinder, and then torque it down? Do I put a thin layer on the bearings also? Or am I missing something? I'll run a straight edge across all mating surfaces to make sure they are still square. Bob told me the torque spec for the rod is 65-70 inch pounds. The piston he's sending me has a new rod on it. He also said he would press the piston off and use the original crank and rod. What are the torque specs for the block? Thanks, Joe.

 

[mogulmasher]

No don't put sealer on the bearings. The crank/bearings are sealed at the crank seals.

 

[Goinwheelin]

Every 10 series Mac I’ve taken apart has had clear silicone sealant on the bearings. So I did the same during reassembly

 

[heimannm]

I can confirm that all 10 Series, 600 Series, Mini Mac, Power Mac 6, and 300 Series saws I've taken apart had the sealant, normally a clear silicone product in the seal and bearing bores as well. I like to use a thin coat of sealant in the bores since that is the area they will sometime leak. I have replaced the PTO side seal on 10 Series saws without disassembling the saw and had the O.D. of the seal leak. I resolved that issue using some green wicking grade LocTite (290?).

Mark

 

[mogulmasher]

Guess you learn something everyday....the few I've been into didn't have any obvious sealant around bearings.

 

[rarefish383]

Thanks guys.