Hmmm maybe touch the head of the (screwed-in) screw with a soldering iron.....?
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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Yeah possibly enough. With the rc stuff (smaller) i slightly start the screw and then heat it with a lighter as it just starts drooping down i stop and screw it in hoping for the best
My way might mean the plastic around the top of the screw heats up too much before the plastic at the bottom does.
Yeah that's the worry really but worth a try though. An alloy screw would transfer quickly
Couldn't let Jethro have all the fun with a ProMac800 , had to get a little firewood supply.
The Mac 10-10 Automatic accompanied the 800 but the wood was pretty large so it did a small amount of cutting.
A combination of J-B Weld and Helicoil inserts should handle your woes quite effectively. I would stick to SAE hardware of the correct thread size to maintain conformity. I had similar issues with my SP81 and went with black hex head cap screws. I liked the look of the black hardware on the yellow. Subtle, but still kinda cool.
BTW, EZ-LOK / EZ COIL make decent individually sized insert kits. A little pricey, but good kits. https://www.ezlok.com/e-z-coil-threaded-insert-kits
My 110 has Helicoils in the muffler boltholes.
Yes, its some kind of oak , but there's several species of it common to the South, maybe water oak ? Theres a stem/trunk behind me thats as tall as my jeep on its side.
Good firewood anyway.
Was nice dealing with the radiata in the weekend it cuts nice splits nice its easy on ya back easy on everything and is dry in a year with a decent heat if its old n sappy
I think you are missing something behind that stripped hole. This is one of my PM800 saws.
This is one of my PM800 saws.
Mark
This is one of my PM800 saws.
Mark
LoveChainsaws
ArboristSite Member
https://www.ebay.com/itm/274638013065
Am I missing something?
Am I missing something?
I swung by a buddy’s to get a 2100 and ended up coming home with this as well! It has a 20 inch bar (not shown) and fired up and ran with gas down the carb, but it needs a new tank gasket and the old gas needs to be drained. It’s a bullfrog, so I’m hoping it’ll run fine without my having to touch it. I thought this was 70cc but Acres says the 5-10 (non-DSP) is 54cc, am I misremembering the displacement?
I'd screw a little plate down onto it and fill it with need it putty
Yeah pretty sure its a 70cc
From 10 Series Shop Manual:
Its got a decomp actived with the on off switch.
I know I feel a helluva lot better now.Originally I thought the 5-10 was 70cc as well,then I looked on Acres' site & saw it listed as 54cc & was a little bummed.
I had the saw running right after I got it back in Oct.It wasn't running right,so I pulled the carb for a rebuild & just got it back on last week.The switch is grounding out,so I disconnected the switch wire from the coil,put the plug back in (It had great spark after disconnecting the wire) & I can't get the saw to fire at all.I tried a couple different plugs.The compression feels weak when the DSP is working,but if I try to pull it over without the DSP it's very hard to pull over.Any ideas?
I had the saw running right after I got it back in Oct.It wasn't running right,so I pulled the carb for a rebuild & just got it back on last week.The switch is grounding out,so I disconnected the switch wire from the coil,put the plug back in (It had great spark after disconnecting the wire) & I can't get the saw to fire at all.I tried a couple different plugs.The compression feels weak when the DSP is working,but if I try to pull it over without the DSP it's very hard to pull over.Any ideas?
