Going a little "old school" here. I have and NOS carb diaphragm PN19164. I have tracked down that it will fit a 3-25 but am wondering if there are more saws that used it.
Thanks
Thanks
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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I've seen absurd prices all over the place but I've generally been around 100.00 for used condition and 350.00 for a cherry 700.
I believe some early model 47's had that style of carb. Maybe some of the early production 4-30's had them too? Mark would probably know.
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I believe that diaphragm is unique to the 3-25 carb which I also believe was unique to the 3-25 as the first all position diaphragm carb on any chainsaw. The only locations in my material that I could find that diaphragm are in both the 1950 and 1953 IPL's for the 3-25.
This is next to the end of the 82cc macs. Unique carb attachment. Its got a rubber skirt around the collar in the airbox. Very cool saws. Late 80s early 90s. They do share a muffler with the 800, 805, 8200 saws. Big mufflers for noise supression. Kinda tune down the saws, but these are really neat. Nice looking in my opinion. Mine wears an nos 28" roller nose. I must admit its a shelf queen. I run a tank thru a year. Thats it. But what a great looker. Nice find. They are not common.On a happier note: with all the 82cc action on here, I couldn't pass this up!
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I removed the clutch cover in the pics, but it's got a working chain brake. It's clearly newer than my other Macs (10-10A and frankensaw); funny how it doesn't have any Mac logos etc. the only reference is on the airbox lid in the small print. It has a home-made wrap handle attachment
I asked the previous owner for a piston shot, pic below. There appears to be some sealant/carbon gunk or something near the muffler gasket (yellow arrow)? I'd like to pull the (impressive!) muffler and check it out, and make sure the muffler's torqued down before running it. The muffler on this thing is quite large, and the saw has rubber anti-vibe pieces/additional belly plates that I know nothing about. Can someone refer me to a workshop manual? I've been looking around online, but haven't come up with anything.
Any advice would be much appreciated!
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What I found in a free 10-10A
Haha.
Haha.
The early 3-25 saws had a "hook" (maybe more accurately described as a "loop" on both sides of the diaphragm. Later ones had only one hook (or loop). This is a two hook version, I am not sure what the top hook linked with, you can see the bottom one engages the hook & pin that are part of the ball and seat mechanism. At best I can determine this is part number 19164.
The diaphragms for the later saws look like this. Part number is 19619. This one was used on several of the large, old saws including the 73 and 77 but they changed the part number to 28696. I think they changed it again later on, McCulloch was pretty good about changing the part numbers, sometimes with no discernable differences in the parts.
Mark
The diaphragms for the later saws look like this. Part number is 19619. This one was used on several of the large, old saws including the 73 and 77 but they changed the part number to 28696. I think they changed it again later on, McCulloch was pretty good about changing the part numbers, sometimes with no discernable differences in the parts.
Mark
Its a shame we can't get holley to sell sheets of their secondary vacuum material, its pretty top notch.
Thanks Vinny! Mine came with a 20” Mac bar, roller nose (“Speed-Mac” it says). Honestly, I’ll have to find work for it too
My 10-10 can handle everything I’ve got now.
I've dealt with crap like this before guys.
It's what is left of the machine screw (with a easy out broken off in it) to hold the throttle handle strap and the bottom of the cylinder cover on a 10-10A.
I tried sticking a welding rod to it. That didn't work. So I ended up drilling two holes beside it. I got it out finally. I grinded the hole out bigger and filling it with JB Weld. I'll try drilling and tapping it. If that won't hold I have two more plans.
I'm sure some of you feel my pain.
Before I broke off the easy out.
It's what is left of the machine screw (with a easy out broken off in it) to hold the throttle handle strap and the bottom of the cylinder cover on a 10-10A.
I tried sticking a welding rod to it. That didn't work. So I ended up drilling two holes beside it. I got it out finally. I grinded the hole out bigger and filling it with JB Weld. I'll try drilling and tapping it. If that won't hold I have two more plans.
I'm sure some of you feel my pain.
Before I broke off the easy out.
I'm okay on the screw. I have two 10-10 parts saws.
Thanks anyway.
Today was the day I decided to tear into my 1-43 and replace the scored piston only to find out the piston looks like it could easily be re-used with some new rings. While I was in there I decided to port the saw as well and drilled out the third intake port. And, like clint, I had a buggered up screw to deal with. Fortunately it was for the recoil and in such a spot a hammer, screwdriver, and a set of pliers could get it out.
More pics.
Dan - we will expect some "after" photos of that saw cleaned up before reassembly. I am counting on them to look like new.
Mark
Mark
Someone repainted it in times past, and there's a few "ugly duckling" parts on it, but I'll do my best. Like-new might be expecting a little too much though. Two questions, the new piston I have (supposedly a fit for this saw) looks like the one below with the square transfer ports, but the one in the saw has different ports (as shown above) and appears to have a smaller wrist pin diameter. The p/n for the new piston is 53941A, can anyone tell me if it will work in a 1-43, or if nothing else, will the rings will swap over? Also, does anyone have generic brands and p/n's for the crankshaft seals?
matt_lamb_160
ArboristSite Operative
I think these are what you want:
Crank seals ball bearing side: 50663 (Timken: 474261)
Crank seals needle bearing side: 104128 (Timken: 254270) - Can someone please confirm this side?
Your piston assembly (original) is p/n 50206 and is the same as the 200. The std. ring set is 55123. Your piston is for a 380 which has the same part number for rings.
Crank seals ball bearing side: 50663 (Timken: 474261)
Crank seals needle bearing side: 104128 (Timken: 254270) - Can someone please confirm this side?
Your piston assembly (original) is p/n 50206 and is the same as the 200. The std. ring set is 55123. Your piston is for a 380 which has the same part number for rings.
