Lots of folks start a saw that way and you'll find the method detailed in most user manuals. Would be a little awkward with a RH start saw, tho.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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I've seen this method recommended in training as well. Your suppose to place left hand on top handle and pull with right hand. Not my preferred method either but if done right I don't think it's an unsafe way to start a saw?
If the saw doesn't have a chainbrake and the idle's set a bit too high, you're in trouble. If it works for some people, fine, but I'm not sticking the b/c in between my legs and starting the saw. If you shouldn't check the chain tension with the saw running, you shouldn't stick the chain near your privates to get the saw running, at least in my mind. Plus, if the saw "bites back" while you're pulling it over and you're pinching it in your legs, that seems like it would hurt a lot more than if you were ground or rip starting it.
Hold on....b/c between legs!? I thought we were talking about method of putting rear handle between legs? That's what I'm talking about, I can't imagine any safety training advocating sticking bar between legs.....
I start my little Echo saws like that. (Handle between legs) because they are so easy to pull and I don’t want to stoop over with the saw on the ground
Edit: I think the manual to my super ez shows starting it with handle between legs.
Edit: I think the manual to my super ez shows starting it with handle between legs.
Every modern manual recommends the method.
My bad, my mind's been going a dozen different ways at once the past few weeks and it's starting to get to me. I saw the "bar in between the legs" thing somewhere else recently and I must have mistakenly associated it with this thread. The handle in between the legs sounds much safer (although it still sounds painful).
I teach chainsaw safety classes and the handle is NOT supposed to be against your naughty bits.
Its called the leg lock method, its not as awkward as starting it on the ground but the handle is supposed to be locked under the thigh closer to the crook of your right leg with a kind of ballet stance so that the handle is not jerked up into your baby maker. Left hand on the top handle and cross torso pull of the starter .
Officially I am not allowed to show a drop start method.
Its called the leg lock method, its not as awkward as starting it on the ground but the handle is supposed to be locked under the thigh closer to the crook of your right leg with a kind of ballet stance so that the handle is not jerked up into your baby maker. Left hand on the top handle and cross torso pull of the starter .
Officially I am not allowed to show a drop start method.
Not the video I was thinking of but
Makes me want to go start a chainsaw
Drop starting is a proven way to break the pawls.
I start my saws on the ground,yeah it's a bit of a PITA,especially after 7 spinal surgeries,but it's better to be safe than sorry & have costly repairs on top of it.
I start my saws on the ground,yeah it's a bit of a PITA,especially after 7 spinal surgeries,but it's better to be safe than sorry & have costly repairs on top of it.
matt_lamb_160
ArboristSite Operative
That will work. Do you have the bearing out? I'd be interested to know what the diameter of the bearing surface in your block measures (knowing it will be 1" but interested to know more precisely).
I was given this Mac that someone had left setting outside with no carb or air filter cover.
Just something to do while waiting on parts. I had put penetrating oil in it for 2 months.
This didn't budge it.
Wooden dowel....nope.
Brass rod...yes
I'll clean up the cylinder and see if it goes on the parts shelf or not.
Just something to do while waiting on parts. I had put penetrating oil in it for 2 months.
This didn't budge it.
Wooden dowel....nope.
Brass rod...yes
I'll clean up the cylinder and see if it goes on the parts shelf or not.
I was gonna tell ya to rub some dirt on it & put it back in & see if it'll fire up,Lol.
Couple questions. I have an NOS drum PN 60917 404-7. What saws are these intended for?? Second question, I have a couple extra sets of 52046 rings if someone is interested.
52046 are intended for the Model 33/35/39 saws.
I don't have the parts in the new building to compare for certain but I expect based on the part number and .404/7 the drum is intended for the large frame McCulloch saws. Some saws had a 5/8" shaft and the drum would be fit with a bushing, others had a 9/16" diameter shaft and the drum would be fit with a needle bearing. The I.D. of the large frame drums is 3-1/8". There were a few .404/7 spur drums made to fit the 82cc 10 Series saws that had a bearing to accommodate the 1/2" shaft, I.D. on those drums is 3-5/16".
Mark
I don't have the parts in the new building to compare for certain but I expect based on the part number and .404/7 the drum is intended for the large frame McCulloch saws. Some saws had a 5/8" shaft and the drum would be fit with a bushing, others had a 9/16" diameter shaft and the drum would be fit with a needle bearing. The I.D. of the large frame drums is 3-1/8". There were a few .404/7 spur drums made to fit the 82cc 10 Series saws that had a bearing to accommodate the 1/2" shaft, I.D. on those drums is 3-5/16".
Mark
This one is for a 9/16 shaft and the ID of the drum is 3.110.
It has a 1 inch OD, a 3/4 inch ID, and it is 5/8 inch wide. If anyone can tell me how to find a similar, generic bearing that does not have loose "grease-type" needles, I'd really appreciate it. The automotive store I went to ordered a bearing with loosely held needles when mine needed to be solid, and I don't know what term delineates the two. I'll get caliper measurements from the block soon.
