McCulloch Chain Saws

[rwoods]

North East Tennessee MAC Report

Recently, I have been spending most of my spare time upgrading my tractor winch set-up after my winch grenaded. However, I was able to return to my little firewood honey hole today. Just one MAC worthy tree. I fired up one of my SP125Cs for fun and to utilize the longer bar which still came up just a bit short.

Beginning the face cut:


Bar was just a little too short.


White Oak on the ground.


They are hoping to sell the butt-end for whiskey/wine barrels.

Ron

 

[Syncop8r]

What's the story behind the duct tape?

 

[Woodslasher]

What's the story behind the duct tape?

Busted a/f cover bracket, if I recall right.

 

[job.ggy]

Hi guys! Job here from the Philippines.

I'm new on McCulloch chainsaws and I just acquired a Super LG-2. I want to know if I can put a 2-10 piston and cylinder kit on the SLG-2? I want to fix and get this chainsaw running again.

 

[heimannm]

Welcome Job, I still have a T shirt from my visit to Cebu years ago...

I have been successful on several saws installing a different cylinder/upper crankcase on the oil tank/lower crankcase. In your case you must reuse the oil tank/lower crankcase half to accommodate the gear drive. My advice would be to check the fit of the two halves very carefully and be sure to use a good sealer (Dirko HT, Threebond 1184, etc.) to make sure the crankcase will hold pressure and vacuum. I cannot think of any reason the 2-10 cylinder would not work. Do check to see if the 2-10 had the DSP valve, in which case you would need to plug for the compression release port since the SLG-2 does not have the mechanism to operate the DSP valve.

I have a 2-10G saw that does not get much use but it does run and cut well.



Could it really have been almost 10 years since that project?

Mark

 

[job.ggy]

Welcome Job, I still have a T shirt from my visit to Cebu years ago...

I have been successful on several saws installing a different cylinder/upper crankcase on the oil tank/lower crankcase. In your case you must reuse the oil tank/lower crankcase half to accommodate the gear drive. My advice would be to check the fit of the two halves very carefully and be sure to use a good sealer (Dirko HT, Threebond 1184, etc.) to make sure the crankcase will hold pressure and vacuum. I cannot think of any reason the 2-10 cylinder would not work. Do check to see if the 2-10 had the DSP valve, in which case you would need to plug for the compression release port since the SLG-2 does not have the mechanism to operate the DSP valve.

I have a 2-10G saw that does not get much use but it does run and cut well.

View attachment 908677

Could it really have been almost 10 years since that project?

Mark

Thank you sir for the info.

I think the 2-10 cylinder kit does not have a DSP same as the SLG-2. I found a used 2-10 piston and cyl kit there in the US and me living here in the Philippines will surely mean a lot of money to have one shipped to my country.

 

[heimannm]

McCulloch® brand products manufactured after January 2000 will have one of three possible serial number formats.

Please review the examples below with the product serial number to determine the date of product manufacture.

Example 1:

Serial Number 092301 (09) (23) (01)

This serial number reflects that the machine was manufactured in September 23, 2001.

Year 2000-2003 products will have a 6-digit number. This format is read directly as a date code. Format = MMDDYY.

Example 2:

Serial Number 309X7700001 (09) (3)

This serial number reflects that the machine was manufactured in September 2003.

Products were issued this style serial number in the fall of 2003 through June 2004. The first three digits will be the designators for the manufacturing year and month.

NOTE: There is no specific day of the month denoted in this serial number format.

Format = YMMXXXXXXXX

* X represents serial number coding unrelated to product date of manufacture.

Example 3:

Serial Number 1G224D00000

This serial number reflects that the machine was manufactured July 22, 2004.

Products produced after July 2004 will have an eleven-character serial number format. This serial number format designates the 2-5 characters for the date code. The second character is the month indicator (A=Jan., B=Feb…). The third and fourth characters indicate the day of the month. The fifth character is the year code.

Format = XMDDYXXXXXX

* X represents serial number coding unrelated to product date of manufacture.


Found this on line.

Mark

 

[McCullocutter]

1-1/4"

Mark

Thankyou

 

[Yokosukadweller]

A local McCulloch enthusiast (SEAM) came to my rescue and sent me a keyed clutch which was exactly what need for my CP70 restoration project. See picture.
I am cleaning it up now, and I can see I need to replace the springs because they might be worn out. And since mine is a LH starter I really don't need the starter pawls either.

Would you recommend I remove the pawls or just leave them on? I don't think they will really get in the way with anything sitting inside the clutch drum like this, but they won't be engaged either so it they happen to come off they can ravage the area I guess... If removing those pawls, is there a good way to get them off without risking to break the clutch in the middle?

How to take the clutch apart I guess is my question. I mean I can have a go at it myself without any advice, but it is the part I originally broke and I want to avoid breaking another one of those rare clutches.

Thanks

 

[McCullocutter]

I would leave the pawls on and replace the springs if they look shoddy. There may be pitting in the spring coils I can’t see. I don’t think those metal pawls will break easily under use. The pawls may add centrifugal force to the clutch. Maybe not to the clutch drums but to the inertia and momentum of the clutch hub. The springs May break if there is pitting. Just a glance at them I’d replace them with 10-10 springs if they’re compatible. Being a McCulloch it probably is. How exactly did you break your last clutch?

 

[Yokosukadweller]

I would leave the pawls on and replace the springs if they look shoddy. There may be pitting in the spring coils I can’t see. I don’t think those metal pawls will break easily under use. The pawls may add centrifugal force to the clutch. Maybe not to the clutch drums but to the inertia and momentum of the clutch hub. The springs May break if there is pitting. Just a glance at them I’d replace them with 10-10 springs if they’re compatible. Being a McCulloch it probably is. How exactly did you break your last clutch?

Cheers Cutter, yes you might be right the pawls probably better stay on there, as they are not really in the way, and who knows, then I can make a double sided starter saw one day also
The clutch is de-rusting now until tomorrow and I will try to take a closer look at the springs then to see their condition. But if needed I got some red springs from the old clutch that can serve as replacement springs if I have to.

I broke the other clutch out of ignorance I have to admit. On another forum I found a post saying that all clutches from McCulloch are definitely LH so I went with that and basically tightened the clutch instead of opening it, to the point of cracking the middle part. Lesson leant for the future for sure.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

If removing those pawls, is there a good way to get them off without risking to break the clutch in the middle?

Secure the assembly in a vise, grind off the peined end of the pins/rivets at the rear of the rotor and press them out or very carefully tap them out with a punch. Some heat would probably ensure less chance of damage to the rotor if the pins are stubborn. The process will be easier if the springs and shoes are already removed.

 

[SEAM]

No need to remove the pawls... just the pawl springs, those are in bad shape and not functional any more.

 

[super44]

I went to a snowmobile swap this last Sunday and came home with a 10-10A 600002G #15-17827. This saw has a chain brake on it and none of the pictures I could find on a short search show the chain brake. Did someone add this too it or is the brake correct? This one has been run but has good compression and should clean up real nice.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I went to a snowmobile swap this last Sunday and came home with a 10-10A 600002G #15-17827. This saw has a chain brake on it and none of the pictures I could find on a short search show the chain brake. Did someone add this too it or is the brake correct? This one has been run but has good compression and should clean up real nice.

Clutch covers are pretty much interchangeable for all the 10 series saws so it could be from anywhere.

 

[ThistleIA]

Near the end of that model's production run (Aug 1971 to July 1975) chain brakes were available on most of their saws.My 10-10A came with one,but couldve been added later

 

[heimannm]

McCulloch made the commitment to equip all of their chainsaws with chain brakes starting in 1975. The 15 prefix to the Serial number indicates it is a very late model so I'd say it is a pretty good chance that saw was equipped with the brake from the factory. I have a 7-10 A with a 15 prefix and it has the OPL and chain brake on the short clutch cover.



Mark

 

[super44]

Same chain brake as that but with the M in the middle of the circle. I will get some pictures of it soon.

 

[Woodslasher]

I found a new chain for my PM6 and a spare chisel chain for my 10-10 when I sorted out my chains today! Not the most exciting news, but I'm pretty happy!

 

[heimannm]

I am currently working on a CP125, the piston has a blind end so removing the piston pin can be a problem. I have the McCulloch piston pin removal tool, but it has been used & abused and does not function as smoothly as it should. In addition to that, I must have gotten hung up on something because it snapped the end (with the groove for the "C" clip) off with the pin about 25% of the way out. I was able to chuck the special screw in my lathe and cut a new groove with my home made tool post grinder using a Dremel tool. I decided to go ahead and try the piston pin removal tool from the Duke just to see how it would work.

https://www.sawsalvage.co/products/...ctor-removal-tool?_pos=2&_sid=4739cb59a&_ss=r
It was necessary to modify an M4 x 75 socket head cap screw by reducing the diameter of the head to fit through the hollow wrist pin and grinding part of the head down so it would slide in far enough to install the "C" clip used to pull the pin. In the end it worked very nicely. Since my McCulloch set did not have the "C" clip when I got it I had been using a 1/4" lock washer modified to fit over the extractor pin. I decided it was time to make a new "C" clip that was a bit heavier duty, I added a small counter bore on one side to keep it properly centered on the extractor pin and avoid any problems with it getting hung up again.

If you haven't had the need to work on one of these, here are some photos to show you what I am talking about. The Duke's tool on the left, the McCulloch tool with my recut groove on the right.



"C" clips installed



This photo shows how the extractor goes through the wrist pin and the "C" clip drops over the groove to engage the pin and pull it out. As you can see, I had already pulled the pin before I took this photo.



Here is my fixture to mount the Dremel in the tool holder, I used a different grinding wheel to cut the groove you see above.



Mark