McCulloch Chain Saws

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Gary nice gear drive!!
Sure like the look, and the way they chew!
I still have a gangsta like limp from when one kicked me! LOL!!!
And to pooch is always good to see!
Like when he is in the vids, just chillin while you throttle up a old homey!!!

As for the carbs, you 2 make me laugh!!!!!
I have gone back to both of your guys threads a good 30-40 times when working on mine!
Now you 2 are helping each other! Just glad I don't have a 2-10 after looking at the carb!!!!!


Any one have IPL's for a super 250, 44-44a super, and 55 super?
Want to start really going over mine, as to the tanks, oilers and such.
Would make it easier ordering and hunting for parts!!!
 
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Thanks guys!

Jerry... I pumped the crap out of that oiler to get the chain nice and slick... But its maple syrup... makes the wood chips taste better. :laugh:

Gary

ha ha ha ha ha!!!

Like seeing these gear drives. Getting more excited for the weekend by the minute. The Super 55a is nearly done and I did a couple things on the 1-82 that I wanted to get done. Mac party comin'.
 
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Gary

Nice 640 Gary - she is in really good condition by the look of it. The old McCulloch gear drives are good looking beasts, and have the performance to boot.

Great saw.

Regards,

Chris.
 
That one has the 3:1 gear set in it.

I had one on a 1-60 Series saw with the 2:1 gear set so I swapped them out and put them in my 1-85. I really like the way that one works now.

As far as I remember, I have only the one 2:1 gear set all of the gear drive saws: Super 55, 1-85, 840, 1-60, 1-62, 1-63. I do have a 1-61 that I recently picked up, I haven't checked out the ratio in that one yet.

I don't remember what the gears are in the 650 or 660's but those are a different gear box altogether.

Mark
 
Had a couple of minutes to start the Super 55A this morning. Started very easily. Killed off whatever mosquitos have survived the freezes as it burned off the old crud still in the crankcase. Idles great, but refuses to wind up. Have an idea where the problem is. I'll fix that tonight hopefully, get all the shrouds and everything cleaned up and put on and she should be ready to go.

BTW how much end play is acceptable on the crank? It has some, just curious.
 
Gary - as a last resort, you can squeeze the "yoke" a little to prevent that movement if the idle speed governor does not work as intended.

CPR - exactly how are you seeing the end play on the crankshaft? I suppose in theory it should be "0" since the bearings are pressed on the crank shaft and should be a press fit in the crank case as well. If you have movement there you may need to look at the PTO side bearing and make sure the bore is not too loose. The Fastenal guys recommended green loctite (weeping formula) to me for that application but I'm not sure if that is the best solution. The flywheel side is generally just a slip fit anyway so you can pull the side cover off the crank case.

carybush - some more details please, model? condition? photo's? Where are you in MO?

Mark
 
Gary - as a last resort, you can squeeze the "yoke" a little to prevent that movement if the idle speed governor does not work as intended.

CPR - exactly how are you seeing the end play on the crankshaft? I suppose in theory it should be "0" since the bearings are pressed on the crank shaft and should be a press fit in the crank case as well. If you have movement there you may need to look at the PTO side bearing and make sure the bore is not too loose. The Fastenal guys recommended green loctite (weeping formula) to me for that application but I'm not sure if that is the best solution. The flywheel side is generally just a slip fit anyway so you can pull the side cover off the crank case.

carybush - some more details please, model? condition? photo's? Where are you in MO?

Mark

My "790" Saw of Mystery has some endplay too. If you tip the saw 90degrees towards the clutch, then flip it back towards the flywheel side, there is a definite "clunk" and you can see the flywheel move. Bad bearings I guess, unless the outer races are moving withing their bores like you suggested to CPR. It doesn't behave like the seals are shot when running. I'll pull it down and look at the bearings. Need to measure the bore anyways...:givebeer:
 
I don't know that I have ever seen the numbers or letters stamped on the gear box, but according to the IPL (for the 840) the following part numbers were used:

60464 - 3:1
60633 - 2:1
60463 - 3.6:1

I can confirm from experience that it is possible to change the gear set from one box to another to change the ratio but I don't think there was any external indication of the ratio. You just have to turn it over by hand and count the turns in vs. turns out of the gear box.

Mark
 
It's weird. it has the cheese grater fan on the flywheel and I could swear I saw it move quite a bit relative to the fan shroud, but when I went to check it, it barely moves. I didn't want to set up the whole dial indicator, I held a toothpick to the housing gaurd and attempted to move it, marking the toothpick with a razor. My marks were effectively the same even though I could feel it move. That's about the same as any of my other saws does.

Long-winded way of saying nevermind:monkey:.
 
That is the best kind of problem/solution in any case, isn't it?

Mark

P.S., Be sure to wear your chaps when running that saw, the temptation to rest it against you leg is great and the spinning cover will burn a hole in your jeans if you don't watch it. My chaps were brand new at the start of the day, then I ran Hoss's 73 and voila!

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It was not the innocent Homelite that did the dirty deed, but the big old McCulloch, really.
 
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