McCulloch Chain Saws

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That is the best kind of problem/solution in any case, isn't it?

Mark

P.S., Be sure to wear your chaps when running that saw, the temptation to rest it against you leg is great and the spinning cover will burn a hole in your jeans if you don't watch it. My chaps were brand new at the start of the day, then I ran Hoss's 73 and voila!

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It was not the innocent Homelite that did the dirty deed, but the big old McCulloch, really.

Does that thing have a harvester bar on it? Holy crap :chainsaw:
 
McCulloch service bulletins

I know about the swap thread and I will list my wants there also, but this is a McCulloch related item.
I have two McCulloch volume 4 service bulletin and one volume five. I would like to swap one of the volume 4 bulletins for one that I do not have. If anyone has a duplicate and would be interested in swapping please let me know. Any help would be appreciated. Tom
 
That is the best kind of problem/solution in any case, isn't it?

Mark

P.S., Be sure to wear your chaps when running that saw, the temptation to rest it against you leg is great and the spinning cover will burn a hole in your jeans if you don't watch it. My chaps were brand new at the start of the day, then I ran Hoss's 73 and voila!


It was not the innocent Homelite that did the dirty deed, but the big old McCulloch, really.

10-4 on that. Lucky for me it has the A-spec goalie mask on it!
 
I have an old McCulloch I would sale anybody intersested i would send pics

Im looking for a later model 10-10 or 10-10s parts saw that i could rob the rear handle and crank out of.....if it has a bar that would be a bonus! Anyone got a 10-10 they're are going to throw away? It would be for a good cause...as it would resurect an old mac back to cutting wood. a parts promac 55 or a 555 would be good and a promac 70/700 would be the best....lol. Thanks Pm me if you can help me out.
 
I am looking at the old fuel lines (yes I kept them). The filtered line goes to a larger brass fitting on the carb on the side opposite the carb from the needles. On the needle side is a small brass fitting that went to the primer and then a short line from the primer into the tank with no filter on it.

Could it be that the Primer is on the return side of the loop? :deadhorse:

Brian: I also have a 2014 that I'm trying to hook up the fuel lines correctly.:bang: They looked like just some crushed dry macaronie when I got him.

Which fitting on the carb did you determine is the fuel inlet.

I suspect the tech at the farm store told me wrong as mine dies when the end of the "vent" line in the tank is above fuel level.:confused:

Thanks
Carl
 
Brian: I also have a 2014 that I'm trying to hook up the fuel lines correctly.:bang: They looked like just some crushed dry macaronie when I got him.

Which fitting on the carb did you determine is the fuel inlet.

I suspect the tech at the farm store told me wrong as mine dies when the end of the "vent" line in the tank is above fuel level.:confused:

Thanks
Carl

It goes like this when viewing the saw from the top with the bar pointing away from you:

Filtered inlet fuel line goes from tank to the low right side of the carb with the large brass tube with a bend in it. Then you need a slightly smaller i.d. fuel line that goes from the smaller brass tube on the left side of the carb to the short tube on the primer (this one needs to be twisted so it forms an "S" so the line goes below the throttle linkage and curves back straight into the primer). Then the same size line that is on the inlet goes from the long fitting on the primer into the tank. Look below from ZAMA tech manual, primer is a seperate piece on the 2014 but schematic is the same:

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I will try to remember to snap a picture tonight at Dad's...
 
Be sure to wear your chaps when running that saw, the temptation to rest it against you leg is great and the spinning cover will burn a hole in your jeans if you don't watch it. My chaps were brand new at the start of the day, then I ran Hoss's 73 and voila!

It was not the innocent Homelite that did the dirty deed, but the big old McCulloch, really.

Your chaps will be safe with the 77 Mark. It has the beefy alloy grill over the cheese grater fan.:biggrinbounce2:

Does that thing have a harvester bar on it? Holy crap :chainsaw:

Your eyes don't deceive you. There are a couple harvester bar mounts that will bolt right up to the Big Homelites.:cheers:
 
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mac 250...

well, thanks to sefh3 i got a bar and chain to try out "my new saw",,, i just realized the bar plates are missing,,, it will be pretty easy to make a set from a piece of sheet metal or stainless,,, can any one measure the thickness of original plates for me?
i know,, i can buy a set from someplace, but i'm really wantin to put this thing in some oak,,, maybe tomorrow.............
tahnks,
john
 
The originals are only .020 or .030" thick and are made from a type of spring steel which makes them pretty tough.

A lot of saws are run without the bar plates, just keep your chain properly tensioned so you are not flopping around under the clutch cover cutting things up.

There are certain later model bars that are thinner than the originals, in which case you may need a spacer on either side of the bar in addition to the bar plates.

Mark
 
It goes like this when viewing the saw from the top with the bar pointing away from you:

Filtered inlet fuel line goes from tank to the low right side of the carb with the large brass tube with a bend in it. Then you need a slightly smaller i.d. fuel line that goes from the smaller brass tube on the left side of the carb to the short tube on the primer (this one needs to be twisted so it forms an "S" so the line goes below the throttle linkage and curves back straight into the primer). Then the same size line that is on the inlet goes from the long fitting on the primer into the tank.
I will try to remember to snap a picture tonight at Dad's...

Ah-Ha! Bozo at Orscheln Farm & Home told me wrong. :buttkick: This has been driving me nuts (just a short putt actually). Could have saved two, three hunnert pulls on the starter rope.

Ended up skipping the primer bulb and running both carb lines directly to bottom of tank just to get it to run.

Thanks much.
Carl.
 
my new mac 250 update...

well, i got a lot of help from members with my first mac,,, thanks to chris j for teh clutch cover; sefh3 for teh bar and chain; mark h for diagrams of teh spike & answering a bunch of questions; deprime for the ipl,,,and everyone else that helped me get this old beast running again....... so here are some more pics, and some more questions,,,

1. the bar measures 22 1/4" overall and is about 16" usable, is it a 16" bar, or 22"? if i want a bar to cut thru 22" logs, what size do i need?

2. i got the bar mounted, but had to stretch it to teh point that its too tight to run, i think it has a 7 tooth 404 spur, and there is no more room to adjust it,,, i was thinking i could grind another 1/4" out of one side of teh clutch cover for a little clearance, as its an original mac bar, and a 70 dl chain,,, i want to run it a little before i invest in a longer b/c....

3. is 7/32" the right file for 404 chain?

thanks again guys!!
 
Those are some aggressive dog teeth. Looks like they may have been exaggerated for the looks.. I haven't seen problems with the low profile teeth that jonsereds have.
 
Wrist pin bearings

Just opened the package for my NOS piston that I bought on EBay to put on the shelf as a backup. Unfortunately, the wrist pin bearings have been robbed. Any source available for these bearings - SP81, PM850 ,etc? Thanks, Ron

ps MO made it west today so SP125C goes in box to come east. Or more precisely Northwest and Southeast. :chainsawguy:
 
Those are some aggressive dog teeth. Looks like they may have been exaggerated for the looks.. I haven't seen problems with the low profile teeth that jonsereds have.

I have several super 250's and would not run them with smaller dawgs!!!!!!!
They a torque monsters, back breakers, make a boy a man saws!
Smaller teeth would only make you work harder getting around timber or trees!

If it was a 044-046 with them big dawgs and you were only bucking wood I would agree! But after spending the later of my free time the past 2 weeks bucking firewood with my 250's I will disagree with that statement towards the 250's! They are big for a reason, and they are not catchy or grabby like you would get from a 044-046 style larger dog working around or in a wood pile.

I have also ruled out me being a man and using my 250's as a firewood saw! They have been put away and will be brought out for show and tell only, due to my weak back and tired arms! I have resorted back to my Stihl 460 for dailey duties!!!
 
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Those are some aggressive dog teeth. Looks like they may have been exaggerated for the looks.. I haven't seen problems with the low profile teeth that jonsereds have.

they are exact copies off teh drawings mark h sent me,,, if anything,, they may only be 98% to size........

they are also the reason i'm losing over 6" in bar length!!!
 

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