You didn't mention the washer...
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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Ed - Does your starter have a nylon bushing or the brass bushing in the housing? The nylon bushings have a "key" that must be seated in a slot on the guide. If it is not seated it would cause the starter to bind as you describe. Is the screw holding the starter pulley to the shaft correct? Should be a flange/hex head 10-24 screw. If the head it too tall that could contact the starter cover when it is fastened down tight.
Mark
Mark
It would be an integrated bushing according to the illustration above from the DE80 IPL. No bushing(s) listed.
On the off chance the saw has an earlier style assy with the nylon bushings (#10)....
And to check if the shaft is bent, just insert it into the housing and spin it without assembling anything else. It should be pretty obvious if it's deformed enough to bind the entire mechanism. May also want to ensure clean and slightly lubricated surfaces between the shaft and housing.
OK Mark & Poge,the screw that holds the pulley (drum) on is correct.It was missing when I got the saw,but I bought one from Bob.As far as a bushing & a washer - the recoil has neither of them.Poge,I don't see a washer listed in any of the parts.Are you referring to #8?The IPL I have for the saw doesn't show it having a bushing (either nylon or brass).When I took it apart last yr.there were no bushings in it.It'd seem to me that if it needed a bushing & didn't have one there would be play in the shaft & it'd wobble.I have no wobble.As for being clean,I don't think I've ever seen a cleaner recoil.
The brass bushing is pressed in so difficult not to notice it missing, but a nylon bushing misaligned is exactly what it sounds like to me , as I have had the same issue happen with the shaft binding on it and not recoiling.
Tabs must align with the housing notches 
Kinda hard to order a bushing when there's no part # listed for it.
emf123
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I've had to file down the heads of quite a few of these screws. Not a bunch, just a flat file and get those raised outside edges off. Look at the inside of the starter cover, it could have a circle worn into it where it was contacting, that would be the evidence you need.
Eric
Nope,nothing like that.I had to chuck the original screws & use regular slot head screws for a 10 series saw.They're the same length,so no problem there.The recoil is like new,just involved in an accident with the rest of the saw.
Camperspecial
ArboristSite Member
I’ve ordered these for 10 series saws.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MCCULL...-/192015303648?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286
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I just got one for a 5-10 starter from Bob Johnson & I think I paid $1 for it (new).Why would anyone pay $8 for that tiny plastic bushing?
Anyway,I don't know if this is the correct bushing.Mark said it had to be "keyed" into place.
Anyway,I don't know if this is the correct bushing.Mark said it had to be "keyed" into place.
Yes and no.
Something very obvious is being overlooked here.
For all intents and purposes, there is no replaceable bushing in this assembly as previously noted. As for the 'washer', my bad again on terminology. I was actually referring to the 'spring retainer'..., (the part that looks like a washer in the illustration). And yes, a very obvious oversight on my part.
Does this recoil have the correct length of the correct rope? And did you spin the shaft in the housing by itself to check for binding? Everything in order at the flywheel end of the shaft? At this point, that's what I'd be investigating next.
Poge,first of all thanks for your time with this,& Happy Father's Day!
The recoil doesn't have the recoil spring shield.I don't know if that comes into pl;ay here at all.Actually what I did with the spring was put a new hook on the end of the old spring,so I'm sure that the spring that was in the recoil was the original spring .As for the rope - I remember asking Bob J.what length it needed to be & he told me to just wind the pulley with rope till it was full.
I spun the shaft around in the housing & it doesn't have a wobble to it,so I'm assuming it isn't bent.After considerable thought,it'd take a helluva lot of force to bend that shaft.I do have another flywheel with pawls off the parts saw that I could swap onto the saw & see if that makes any difference (?)If you need me to take this recoil apart again & take some pics let me know.I'm completely stumped here.
Well guys,you'rer not going to believe this,but I changed out the flywheels for kicks thinking it certainly couldn't do any harm.The recoil went on easily,whereas with the other flywheel on it didn't want to line up at all.I put in a couple of screws & no binding,With each screw I put in the recoil I checked & had no binding at all.I gave it the ultimate test & pulled on the rope 8-10 times & it works perfectly! There was one difference & that was with the pawl screws.The pawl screws on the original flywheel had the torx type heads & the pawl screws on the parts saw flywheel had a hex head,but that shouldn't have made one bit of difference.I checked for up & down play on the pawls & they were the same on both flywheels.Both pawl springs on each flywheel were set in the same position.I don't know what the problem was,or what I did,but problem solved! Thanks for your help guys!
Count the number of fins on the flywheel, the 18 fin flywheels were different and required a shorter crankshaft. Someone may have changed the crankshaft and installed the original 18 fin flywheel and that will not work.
FYI- just saw this on eBay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/402923850079?hash=item5dd022095f:g:SQEAAOSwuMVgyVzN
Mark
FYI- just saw this on eBay
https://www.ebay.com/itm/402923850079?hash=item5dd022095f:g:SQEAAOSwuMVgyVzN
Mark
Lol,you want me to take the recoil back off to count the fins after I finallt got it working again?Sorry,no chance.I will count the fins on the original flywheel that was on the saw though.I believe both flywheels were identical though.
I took it from your earlier posts that recoil worked fine originally.
Ron
Mac dirty. Pm55
It's been super busy over here but I finally got around to doing a little saw stuff. Picked up a bar adapter so I could put a good 28" oregon bar on the sp81. Thanks for the suggestion maintenance supervisor! I made a quick alteration to the bar so the oil would feed in properly and the tensioner would fit. I'm curious as to how you fellas do it? I thought about taking a thin cutting wheel into the groove of the rail just above where the oil would normally feed in. So mimicing the function of thr original mcculloch bar. I ended up modifying it to mimic the function of some of the earlier Mac bars though. Should have looked closer because the back plate isn't quite flush with the bar, so I may lose a little oil here and there. It works though and the sp81 is rippin'. An overall good condition saw, everything works great. The Jethro spike adds a touch of class as well! Need to put a proper fuel line and grommet in there though, the 036 line I put in is a little too long and the fuel filter needs a weight on it.
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