I can confirm Dan's assessment, that saw is a 1-40. Interesting in that the original models did not have a chain oil tank, bar and chain lubrication was accomplished by "crankcase residue" being directed from the bottom of the crankcase to the bar. McCulloch recommended running a 10:1 mix on those. I have a couple of the conversion packages that replaced the fuel tank cover with a divider and an additional oil tank with manual pump at the front of the saw. The conversion also required drilling a hole through the bar pad to connect the manual pump to the oiler outlet. The final step in the conversion was to remove the valve from the bottom of the saw and plug the hole with a lead ball.
The 1-40 and 1-50 followed closely after the D-30 and D-36 with the center pull starter, that's why they have that cylindrical lump in front of the air box.
If I remember later on I'll post some photos of a saw with the conversion.
Be aware that the earlier 1-4X models did not have needle bearings in the pistons but utilized brass bushings instead. My observations are that more old saws were killed by carbon accumulations that scored the pistons and cylinders as opposed to lubrication failures. East to understand if you are running a 10:1 or 16:1 mix.
For oiler button repair, do what most enterprising saws owners did and just stick a wood screw into the stub so you can push on it. The more creative solution was to carve a new button from a convenient stick of hard wood. Carved oil caps were pretty common as well.
Mark
The 1-40 and 1-50 followed closely after the D-30 and D-36 with the center pull starter, that's why they have that cylindrical lump in front of the air box.
If I remember later on I'll post some photos of a saw with the conversion.
Be aware that the earlier 1-4X models did not have needle bearings in the pistons but utilized brass bushings instead. My observations are that more old saws were killed by carbon accumulations that scored the pistons and cylinders as opposed to lubrication failures. East to understand if you are running a 10:1 or 16:1 mix.
For oiler button repair, do what most enterprising saws owners did and just stick a wood screw into the stub so you can push on it. The more creative solution was to carve a new button from a convenient stick of hard wood. Carved oil caps were pretty common as well.
Mark