The latest Mac I bought.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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Run it without a filter and see what happens. I'm going with massive air leak vs. fuel starvation. The Stihl filter should pass plenty of fuel.
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I would think the same, but I've been through the whole saw and this is literally the reason why I rebuilt it in the first place. And I did not find a smoking gun when I tore it down.
I will try running it without a filter and get to building some block offs for a pressure/vac test.
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Camperspecial
ArboristSite Member
I noticed that the pull rope was oily and oil was coming out of the hole in the starter cover (RH start) on this 5-10G.
Assumed there was a bad seal on the crank letting gear oil past.
I found this. I don’t understand how the gear oil is supposed to not pour out into the clutch and out the bottom of the saw.
It’s a new saw to me. I’m just getting into it but had to stop and get some input.
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Assumed there was a bad seal on the crank letting gear oil past.
I found this. I don’t understand how the gear oil is supposed to not pour out into the clutch and out the bottom of the saw.
It’s a new saw to me. I’m just getting into it but had to stop and get some input.
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On the Mac15,how do I pull the oil pump plunger out?I pulled the tank off which gives me access to the assembly,but do I unscrew it out,or just pull it out?I hate to do something wrong & break it beyond repair.The "gland" was shot,letting the used black engine oil leak all over the entire saw.I've got a bunch of new parts coming from Bob J.
The other thing is if I let the saw sit for a lengthy period of time it won't start unl;ess I prime the carb,otherwise it runs great.It has a Tillotson HC carb on it & I saw one kit on Feebay for $40,I think that's ridiculous.
The other thing is if I let the saw sit for a lengthy period of time it won't start unl;ess I prime the carb,otherwise it runs great.It has a Tillotson HC carb on it & I saw one kit on Feebay for $40,I think that's ridiculous.
My latest addition, it’s missing a starter prawl spring (anyone made one of these, or could a LH start one be modified?)
I haven’t tried starting it, but really like it, it’s my first RH start
There’s no tag in the airbox, but the lid says it was made in Belgium.
I haven’t tried starting it, but really like it, it’s my first RH start
There’s no tag in the airbox, but the lid says it was made in Belgium.
Camperspecial
ArboristSite Member
In contrast to my last pictures, this is my G70 without the clutch. Basically the same saw. Don’t know why they’re so different.
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Has anyone had trouble with the proline Viton fuel tank gaskets for the 10 series? I used one in my customers PM55 build that I just completed and he called today telling me it's leaking like a sieve!!! He brought the saw back to me (a 2 hour drive!!) And I took the fuel tank apart to find the gasket all puckered and swollen. I'm not to happy and neither is my customer. I have ordered another Viton gasket as well as an original style cork gasket. I'm thinking I will go with cork this time around.
Also worth noting, if anyone caught the ebay deal on 10 series fuel caps NOS 4 for $30, just beware the duckbills in them are goo. They are still a great deal for the price but expect to rebuild them.
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Also worth noting, if anyone caught the ebay deal on 10 series fuel caps NOS 4 for $30, just beware the duckbills in them are goo. They are still a great deal for the price but expect to rebuild them.
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Camperspecial
ArboristSite Member
You can use only the RH start pawl springs as far as I know.Once you get her running you'll really enjoy it,nice 'n light,yet packed with 70cc of power.My latest addition, it’s missing a starter prawl spring (anyone made one of these, or could a LH start one be modified?)
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I haven’t tried starting it, but really like it, it’s my first RH start
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They do swell with gas exposure but that usually helps them seal?
Myself and a few others have discovered that if you need to disassemble a tank with one you have to let it shrink back down before reassembling it.
Yokosukadweller
ArboristSite Member
I got one taken apart with the cork seal. I read somewhere (here?) that you can make a new gasket more easily than trying to cut one, just remove the cork seal and then carefully fill the groove with some permatex seal maker and let that cure, and that way end up with a new gasket. Or, should I try to reassemble with the old cork seal first?
I've only had to replace one tank gasket & I used Buna square O ring material.It worked great & the cost is minimal.I think it was Brian Thacker who told me about it.
I don't know what I was thinking on the throttle lock. I have 3 other macs with the same lock, but I hadn't used any of them since March.
I've been drop starting for 50 years.
emf123
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Are you sure it wasn't leaking past the fuel line where it passes through the tank into the carb box? Did you wrap it with Teflon tape? That is SOP on any 10 series for me.
I can't speak on the Viton gasket but I use 3/32" square O-ring stock, Buna N. Fit it into the groove, trim long, then coat the groove with some moto-seal, push it in back in, trim to exact length, a little moto-seal on the top, and put the halves together. I usually put the seam to the front, in case I have a leak, I'd see it. But I've never had a leak and done many tanks like this. It gets messy like this, so have rags and some cleaner handy.
Eric
Viton rubber is THE fix for Corvair push rod tube ‘O’ rings.
There are twenty four of them.
And, two more at the oil cooler.
Twenty six potential leaks.
I suggest that the gasket you got isn’t really Viton material.
There are twenty four of them.
And, two more at the oil cooler.
Twenty six potential leaks.
I suggest that the gasket you got isn’t really Viton material.
I do the same with FelPro hybrid cork/rubber gasket material. Cut a strip instead of attempting to copy the shape of the gasket and simply put a dab of sealant at the butt joint, button it up, add fuel. I figure you can get a couple hundred 10 series tank gaskets from a $13 roll.
MotoSeal Grey 29132 (not Ultra Grey) is also a good solution applied several ways, including to simply seal a tank using the old gasket. Stays relatively pliable as a fuel resistant gasket/sealant. Ultra Grey Rigid 82194 on the other hand will harden.
I do my fair share of drop starts , but my shoulder was beat about a week ago and I'm thankful for the throttle lock.
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Definitely the tank gasket. It was leaking all the way around, literally dripping when the tank was full. I have gotten away from the molded McCulloch fuel lines in favor of a Buna-N grommet in the tank and genuine Tygon line. No leaks in about a dozen saws so far.
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