McCulloch Chain Saws

[edju1958]

There's gotta be something wrong with my phone co.I sent the pics of the model 15 3 times & they all came in on my email today at the same time.I sent the first batch about 3 or 4 days ago.Anyway here they are.

 

[edju1958]

BTW,Acres' site is totally wrong about the carb that's on the Mac15.He says it has a Tillotson HC carb.I pulled mine off today & it's a Walbro SDC7.I talked with Bob J.about it too & he said that Acres' was full of sh*!.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

My IPL's indicate Tillotson HC's came on those until later '68 models.

 

[edju1958]

My IPL's indicate Tillotson HC's came on those until later '68 models.

Well Poge,you probably know as well as I do how Bob J.can be,rather set in his ways,Lol.

 

[edju1958]

Would anyone know how to get the oil pump plunger out of the saw?I already have the fuel/oil tank removed.Did Mac require a special wrench for this? The plunger works fine,but the knob is missing & according to Bob J.they didn't sell the knob separately.

 

[clint53]

I do my fair share of drop starts , but my shoulder was beat about a week ago and I'm thankful for the throttle lock.

I very seldom use the throttle lock. Old habits are hard to break.

 

[edju1958]

Thank goodness Ray Benson sent me 3 IPLs for the Mac15.Mac did indeed make a replacement button for the oil pump plunger - part # 19970A,so I won't need to replace the entire plunger.According to Acres' site the Mac15 was made from '62-'88,that's a 26 yr.run!
When I took the carb off yesterday I found something very interesting - the SDC7 had no fuel pump diaphragm or cover.The orfices were either plugged,or never machined.Since this was a gravity fed fuel system it wasn't necessary to have an all position carb.I'm still wondering though how it could fell a tree?

 

[rocketnorton]

will still gravity feed on their side w/nuff fuel
tilly on mine

 

[ThistleIA]

Mac 15 produced Dec 1962 to March 1969.That page with the 1988 date is a major typo.

 

[edju1958]

Mac 15 produced Dec 1962 to March 1969.That page with the 1988 date is a major typo.

I thought it was rather strange that they made those dinosaurs till almost 1990.

 

[Marvin Booysen]

Hi guys, I recently got this bar with my 5-10. I was on my way out when the package arrived, took one look at the bar and thought “no way this is right”, so put it aside and just grabbed the saw to look over on the way. The mount pattern didn’t look like that on my Mac 10 and Speed Mac bars.
I’ve now had a closer look, and it’s a Mac bar, PN 63542.





I’ve searched around a bit, and it appears it might indeed be the correct bar.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/McCulloch-mac-5-10-dsp-20-bar-chainsaw-part-only-bin-200-/323764081273

It came with a cruddy Oregon chain with “45” stamped on the drivers (though lots of life left, looks like it’s never been sharpened). I can’t find much on it, looks like .354” pitch. Anyone familiar with these, which file to use, currently available replacements? The saw has a solid/welded rim sprocket-clutch drum, so seems consistent. Just curious, I’ll probably have to change it for a removable 3/8” rim anyway at some point.

Also, I found a broke RH start clutch locally on eBay. Not cheap, but it’s got both starter pawl springs and other bits, so I’ll get it. I’ve read that these clutches are quite fragile, do they break when attempting to remove them?

 

[edju1958]

If your new chain is indeed a .354 pitch you'll need the same pitch sprocket.The pitch should be stamped on the clutch drum somewhere.You can't put a .354 chain on a .375 (3/8) sprocket & vice versa.You can put the chain on the sprocket without the bar & rotate it by hand,it should spin around freely without catching or skipping.If the saw has an original clutch drum it may very well be .354.
As for the clutch being fragile,I think that's misinformation.I've had to pull several clutches off old 2-10 & 10-10 saws that had thge .354 pitch drum/sprocket on & have never had a clutch break.You just take the nut off that holds the clutch on,then put a gear puller on the clutch drum & tighten down the center bolt.It'll ping when it breaks loose.It's been a while since I've pulled one,but there may be a Woodruff key on the crankshaft.

 

[vinnywv]

Hi guys, I recently got this bar with my 5-10. I was on my way out when the package arrived, took one look at the bar and thought “no way this is right”, so put it aside and just grabbed the saw to look over on the way. The mount pattern didn’t look like that on my Mac 10 and Speed Mac bars.
I’ve now had a closer look, and it’s a Mac bar, PN 63542.

View attachment 919930
View attachment 919931
View attachment 919932

I’ve searched around a bit, and it appears it might indeed be the correct bar.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/McCulloch-mac-5-10-dsp-20-bar-chainsaw-part-only-bin-200-/323764081273

It came with a cruddy Oregon chain with “45” stamped on the drivers (though lots of life left, looks like it’s never been sharpened). I can’t find much on it, looks like .354” pitch. Anyone familiar with these, which file to use, currently available replacements? The saw has a solid/welded rim sprocket-clutch drum, so seems consistent. Just curious, I’ll probably have to change it for a removable 3/8” rim anyway at some point.

Also, I found a broke RH start clutch locally on eBay. Not cheap, but it’s got both starter pawl springs and other bits, so I’ll get it. I’ve read that these clutches are quite fragile, do they break when attempting to remove them?

They tend to break when overtightening the nut when putting them back on. Just be careful and itll be good.

.354 was exclusive to mac. It is not interchangeable with other chain. Match it all pitch to pitch.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Myself and others havr broken them putting them on with an impact driver, go old school use a wrench.

 

[Marvin Booysen]

Thanks guys, I’ll go with a torque wrench

Vinny, I’ve been looking around for info on that chain, and found this post:

I have a cross reference chart that lists Sabre 357a chain as .354 pitch. And crosses with Oregon 45C and McCulloch PM 358 chain. Here is some reading on .354 pitch chain.
http://www.arboristsite.com/search.php?searchid=3361759

It mentions a .354” pitch Oregon chain with “45” code, so I’m going to clean it up and see if it rolls on the sprocket by hand. Doesn’t look like it’s available anymore though.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

At least your only concern with that bar will be gauge and drive link count..., and possibly the guide plates if you don't have them.

Looks to be in pretty decent shape otherwise.

 

[2broke2ride]

Im happy to report that the bar I won on Ebay for the 4-30A showed up today. It appears in very good shape, it was modified to fit the saw it was on and it has a new loop of Oregon 1/2 chain on it, seems factory sharp and never been touched. Pictures to follow later.

Sent from my SM-G981U using Tapatalk

 

[Yokosukadweller]

Want to paint this part, but i cannot find out how to take off the choke and manual oiler buttons, nor how to remove the trigger. Seems there is some kind of stint (sorry my English is not right here), like a small pin. How to get those out without destroying them?

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Want to paint this part, but i cannot find out how to take off the choke and manual oiler buttons, nor how to remove the trigger. Seems there is some kind of stint (sorry my English is not right here), like a small pin. How to get those out without destroying them?

They are called "roll pins" they are spring steel rolled into a circle but have an open seam.
They can be driven out with a very small drift or punch, you will not be able to destroy them.
The oiler button will pull right off the push rod once the pin is removed, the choke rod can be removed before you drive the pin out.
There is a larger roll pin holding the trigger mechanism.
Work on a stable solid surface, once you have the pins driven half way through you can usually grab them with pilers or vice grips.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Seems there is some kind of stint...

"Roll pin." They can be simply and safely driven out with appropriately sized punches and driven back in for re-use. They don't even need to be completely driven out to remove the parts.