McCulloch Chain Saws

[heimannm]

I was cleaning up my 55 to put it back in the museum after the weekend show and noticed the extra brace on the full wrap handle bar for the first time. I've only owned and operated this saw for 10 or 12 years so I guess that excuses me.







I looked at one of my old photos to be sure someone didn't sneak this in place during the last outing and low and behold, it's been there all along.



It doesn't appear in any of the IPL's that I have for the 55/S55/S55A models so I am guessing it must have been a local adaptation like the spike on the bottom of the wrap.

Mark

 

[ThistleIA]

That's cool,first one I seen like that.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

#1. Let it soak for another few weeks and keep trying?
#2. Try heating the Cylinder with a Heat Gun the next time I try to free it up?
#3. Use a small impact gun the next time to try and free it up?
#4. Start dismantling and go from there?

Everything except #3 are reasonable approaches. The zerk fitting method is certainly the most robust if you're able to fashion such an adapter.

One other possibility that hasn't been addressed is that something else (or combination of things) has the saw locked up. While your description certainly fits a seized piston, there could be other issues (probably internal) prohibiting the crank from turning. That would sorta lean toward #4 as your next (or simultaneous) logical step while awaiting any possible progress from the latest solvent approach.

 

[edju1958]

Greetings everyone! It's been a while since I've been working on the yellow & black.I got one of my 10-10 saws out yesterday & got it fired up again I noticed that the saw is difficult to start in that I need to hold my finger on the throttle to start it.Last yr.after I got this saw cleaned up & running again,someone here told me to put a throttle lock on,which I did,but it doesn't work.The other thing that I noticed was the chain would run continuously which usually means it has a dry bearing for one.I pulled the clutch & drum & found the bearing to be dry,but there was a problem with one of the pawls on the clutch (it's a RH start saw).Whoever had the saw previously had possibly replaced the pawl or pwal spring & hammered the rivet in a bit too tight so it couldn't return to center.There's a lip where the shaft goes through with a raised lip.I had another clutch om hand,but instead of having the downward crooked pawls it had the straight,curved inward pawls I called Bob J.to see if these clutches were interchangeable - he said no.I figured as long as I had the clutch out I'd try the other one & see if it did work,& it does.
Now the next problem was in the recoil.There werte 4 fingers that protruded from the pulley that engage the pawls & they were worn down so they were barely engaging only one pawl.I found another recoil that was useable & tried it.Both recoils had a worn adjuster pin that wouldn't engage the hole in the bar.I finally remembered that I had a brand new recoil (totally black) that I bought from Bob 3 yrs.ago.I'd tried it on a saw once before & it wouldn't fit,it would hit the front handle bar.This time it worked,thank God.So,2 out of 3 problems were addressed.The only problem with the saw is the throttle lock not working.Oh yeah,almost forgot,whoever had the saw was using bar plates from I don't know what.I put a nice set of actuasl Mac bar pl;ates on it.

 

[edju1958]

I started working on another 10-10.It fires on a prime,but the manual oiler doesn't work.When I push on the oiler button it acts like it's plugged & has resistance,nothing comes out at the bar pad,but there is seepage at the small cotter pin.I have 2 pics,one shows a small shiny copper colored ball,the other I'm pointing at the cotter pin.I do have a spare manual oiler that I can change out if necessary..I'd rather not pull the tank handle off if I don't have to though.I did pull the tank cover off & all looked good in there,the screen isn't plugged.

 

[heimannm]

The cotter pin is the tank vent, the ball is a plug. Look carefully and you will see that leads to the outlet at the pump and you can see where it is cross drilled directing the oil to the bar pad. If operating the manual pump builds pressure in the tank it seems the outlet is plugged or it could be the disc check valve is not working.

Mark

 

[edju1958]

The cutter pin is the tank vent, the ball is a plug. Look carefully and you will see that leads to the outlet at the pump and you can see where it is cross drilled directing the oil to the bar pad. If operating the manual pump builds pressure in the tank it seems the outlet is plugged or it could be the disc check valve is not working.

Mark

Where would the disc check valve be located?I did see where the outlet is on the bar pad & it's dry as a bone.What can I use to unplug the opening to the bar pad?I do have some small fine wire,but I don't want to be jamming something in there that's gonna cause damage.

 

[heimannm]

The disc is under the manual oil pump, you have to remove the fuel tank to access it. The other check valve is in the tank in the automatic oil pump or a separate block if the saw is manual only.

Mark

 

[super44]

Just the way I found it Poge...

I finished putting the 5-49 back together today. I think a fellow needs a little practice on these to remember the proper sequence so you don't have to back up and start over so often.

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It does run on a prime but the metering diaphragm is so hard there is no chance of it running on its own. I hope to have someone work on some diaphragms for the two man saws once I get a few other projects buttoned up.

Mark

That one is much nicer than mine.

 

[edju1958]

The disc is under the manual oil pump, you have to remove the fuel tank to access it. The other check valve is in the tank in the automatic oil pump or a separate block if the saw is manual only.

Mark

Looks like I'll be taking the fuel tank off & putting the other oil pump on.This saw isn't manual only oiling.I did notice that when I took the carb off,a nice SDC37,that it didn't have the gasket between the carb & the spacer,a good reason why it wouldn't start or pull fuel.I need to get the oiler working first before I can proceede with the carburetion.Thanks Mark!

 

[edju1958]

Looking at an IPL from 1972,which is LH start,I see where the check valve is & I can't understand how it couldn't be working,unless the oil sat in there for a very long time & became hardened or like glue (I've seen that happen).I don't know if just putting on a different pump body will do anything.At this point I don't know if the check valve is on the other pump or not.The pump body is part # 84156 & the check valve is part # 62909,correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Looks like I'll be taking the fuel tank off & putting the other oil pump on.

Make sure the rod isn't deformed or maybe just out of proper position..., though I gather there's no auto oiling either?

 

[edju1958]

Looking at an IPL from 1972,which is LH start,I see where the check valve is & I can't understand how it couldn't be working,unless the oil sat in there for a very long time & became hardened or like glue (I've seen that happen).I don't know if just putting on a different pump body will do anything.At this point I don't know if the check valve is on the other pump or not.The pump body is part # 84156 & the check valve is part # 62909,correct me if I'm wrong.

Make sure the rod isn't deformed or maybe just out of proper position..., though I gather there's no auto oiling either?

As far as I can tell the rod is in place.I haven't torn the tank handle off yet to find out anything.In order for me to find out if the auto-oiler is working the saw would have to be running,hard to do without a carb on it.

 

[edju1958]

I took the tank handle off & the manual oiler & all was in fine working order.I moved on to the automatic oiler & as soon as I got it out I found the culprit.The pump diaphragm was stuck like it was welded into place,there was no way the engine impulses were ever going to move it.I pushed down on it slightly & it'd only go down about 1/8 in.at most.I had to put a pen screwdriver up under the metal part of the diaphragm & gently pull it back up.I could hear crackling going on as I did this.I ended up pulling the diaphragm right out & had to pull the spring out too.I put them both back in & it's working freely now,but I don't know as I'd trust it the way it is.I'll do more cleaning on it with maybe some Simple Green first.Someone had been in this saw before me trying to fix it,it was spotless.It should've been covered in grime.As soon as I get it back together it SHOULD work again,then I can move on to the carb..

 

[edju1958]

Sorry,I was using the wrong terminology.I was referring to the oil pump piston as the diaphragm.Probably had a few of you gurus scratching your heads,Lol.

 

[edju1958]

I finally got the manual oiler to work after taking the pump off twice.I put the original pump back on & saw that it was leaking on one corner.It must've gotten warped as it was made of metal.The replacement pump was plastic.Once I got it primed the oil shot out of the bar pad about 2-3 in.I did replace the automatic oil pump with a good plastic pump.I can probably get the original auto oil pump working again by soaking it in some Seafoam or Simple Green.
Now I'm haviong a helluva time getting the tank handle back on.I was doing some thinking on this 10-10 & it seems to me that I changed out the tank handle about 2 1/2 yrs.ago for some reason.I wish I'd have known the oiler was on the fritz back then so I could've addressed it when I had the handle off.This tank handle still requires the curved air filter,but I'm fairly sure I have one here.One step at a time,first I must get the tank handle back on,then rebuild the carb.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Just poke in the rod sit it down make sure its happy then lift it up a bit sneak in ya block and gaskets and get the screws in and started then check the pump action then crank down ya screws. Easy peasy

 

[edju1958]

Easy peasy my butt.There's no way I'm gonna "sneak the gaskets & insulator in there".I don't know how the "brilliant"engineers at McCulloch thought that a person with only 2 hands can pull this off.Ya gotta put the rod in while lining up the front & rear bolt holes & hold the gaskets & insulator on all at the same time..Sorry,I'm not having a good day.I just deleted half of what I was originally gonna post.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Easy peasy my butt.There's no way I'm gonna "sneak the gaskets & insulator in there".I don't know how the "brilliant"engineers at McCulloch thought that a person with only 2 hands can pull this off.Ya gotta put the rod in while lining up the front & rear bolt holes & hold the gaskets & insulator on all at the same time..Sorry,I'm not having a good day.I just deleted half of what I was originally gonna post.

Well what can help is smear a little anaerobic sealant on the gaskets so they stay put. Seriously though poke the rod in check its in the right place and works the pump then ya can just lift up the tank keeping the rod in plonk down ya stack of insulator n gaskets n lower down the tank. Use a little screw driver of bit of wire or whatever n line up ya goodies and poke a screw in then do the same with the other side. Check again the pump is happy then button it up.

Ya can also poke the screws through and slide over ya "stack" and poke in ya rod drop down ya tank n done. Do it it upside down if ya want so the "stack" stays on.

Once ya get the hang of it they are great to work on. Especially the rigid saws

 

[edju1958]

Well what can help is smear a little anaerobic sealant on the gaskets so they stay put. Seriously though poke the rod in check its in the right place and works the pump then ya can just lift up the tank keeping the rod in plonk down ya stack of insulator n gaskets n lower down the tank. Use a little screw driver of bit of wire or whatever n line up ya goodies and poke a screw in then do the same with the other side. Check again the pump is happy then button it up.

Ya can also poke the screws through and slide over ya "stack" and poke in ya rod drop down ya tank n done. Do it it upside down if ya want so the "stack" stays on.

Once ya get the hang of it they are great to work on. Especially the rigid saws

If you recall Jethro,I did this on a couple of 2-10s about 2 1/2 yrs.ago.I did just like you said,poke the rod into the manual oiler pump & line it all up & drop a screw down.Every time I go to drop the screw down the damn tank moves on me.I had a helluva time back then & I'm still having a helluva time.At this point I'd rather work on a Homelite any day of the week,so much easier to work on.If this keeps up you might just see a flying 10-10.