McCulloch Chain Saws

[Rockrash13]

View attachment 930335

Bottom of saw doesn't look like that. Here's mine a little cleaned up and like I said before only thing stamped on bottom is a B. Here's a couple more pics

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Bottom of saw doesn't look like that. Here's mine a little cleaned up and like I said before only thing stamped on bottom is a B. Here's a couple more pics

Possibly replacement part looking at lack of paint

 

[vinnywv]

Agree with jethro. Likely a newer cylinder.

 

[rocketnorton]

had same on my 797

 

[edju1958]

Good news on 2 of the 10-10s that gave me trouble over the weekend.One of them just needed a new plug & some SERIOS carb adjustments.I got the idle screw turned in all the way & the lo screw turned out only 3/4 turn,the hi is set at 1 1/8 - 1 1/4 turns out.I've never had a carb that wouldn't respond to an idle adjustment on a Walbro SDC1 or 2.

The 2nd 10-10 had a bad plug wire,hence the miss it seemed to have.I had the dig the wire out of the coil & of course the outer part of where the wire gets inserted had to break off in pieces.My plan is to epoxy the pieces back together while the new wire is in the coil.I had a coil wire from a Homelite C5 that's the same size as the Mac wire used.I also have a dead coil that I can cut the wire off & reuse that if it's still long enough..I put a different coil on & the wire was missing the boot & spring,so I improvised.The wire was barely long enough to go onto the plug,but it worked long enough for me to adjust that carb.

 

[edju1958]

Now another dilemma with the 10-10.It seems that Mac used about ten different styles of mufflers on the 10-10 & the only one they show in the IPLs I have is the pancake muffler.I have a different style muffler that has a duct on it & is bolter to the side of the engine.The last time I needed a baffle from Bob J.I had to take the dang muffler off the saw & send it to him so he could match it up.I wish he'd get into the 21st century.

 

[edju1958]

It's the same story with Bob J.I called him today with my muffler dilemma.I told him it's the 7-10 style muffler on a 10-10 & all I need is a baffle,but good old Mac doesn't give part #s for anything but the pancake muffler.He told me to take the muffler off & mail it to him so he can determine which muffler it is & look to see if he's got a baffle.

Now on to the clutch that rings on the drum like a dinner bell.Here's a pic of the clutch that's on the saw now.I'd like to know why it clangs on the drum like that when it runs?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Your clutch is missing both #15s for one thing (as mentioned in another forum).

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And from what can be seen in the pic, the muffler appears to be the fairly common square style used on many 10-series saws. The baffle is likely 85152 and is clearly identified in any IPL detailing the square style muffler. The figure below is from the 10 series service manual for illustration purposes. A couple cover types were used that all utilized the same duct/body and baffle. There were a couple different part numbers for both the duct and the baffle along the way, though they appear to all be what is now commonly referred to as 85152 for the baffle and 83105 for the duct/body. The exception being what appears to be the last baffle variant with additional spark arresting features for the 10-10S as detailed in the 1992 IPL.

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[edju1958]

Your clutch is missing both #15s for one thing.

View attachment 930819
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And from what can be seen in the pic, the muffler appears to be the fairly common flat style used on many 10-series saws. The baffle is likely 85152 and is clearly identified in any IPL detailing the flat style muffler. The figure below is from the 10 series service manual for illustration purposes. Several cover types were used that all utilized the same basic duct/body and baffle. There are several different part numbers for the duct -- presumably for fastener variations among the different cover types.

View attachment 930820
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Thanks Poge! I don't have the service manuals,only the IPLs for 10-10A 1967 & 1972.I do however have the IPLs for the 2-10,1965 & 1970 which look like they used the same muffler style.Of course the baffle part #s are different.(62379A-1965,62379B-1970)
As fopr the clutch,I don't know how I missed that.The parts are ordered from Bob J.

 

[vinnywv]

It's the same story with Bob J.I called him today with my muffler dilemma.I told him it's the 7-10 style muffler on a 10-10 & all I need is a baffle,but good old Mac doesn't give part #s for anything but the pancake muffler.He told me to take the muffler off & mail it to him so he can determine which muffler it is & look to see if he's got a baffle.

Now on to the clutch that rings on the drum like a dinner bell.Here's a pic of the clutch that's on the saw now.I'd like to know why it clangs on the drum like that when it runs?

I spose that the clangin is not at all the pawls as much as the shoes in there flying around. Those little keepers alugn the clutch shoes up.

 

[edju1958]

I spose that the clangin is not at all the pawls as much as the shoes in there flying around. Those little keepers alugn the clutch shoes up.

Yeah,as usual I had to find out the hard way.I know that those pieces that fit in the springs that go from shoe to shoe are not going to be easy to put back in.It's beyond me as to why someone would take them out,or if they had the entire clutch apart why they just left them out.Maybe I'd just be better off getting a different clutch.

 

[Alaskan Stihl]

McCulloch Super 797 Piston Seized Project: Well…I have to say it actually freaking worked! I took a Spark Plug and punched out the center ceramics…then found a larger thread grease zerk and had it welded in (see pic). Next, (after installing the fitting) I went ahead and started pumping grease down the Spark Plug hole and IT WORKED!
Now, I suppose the next step is to do a carburetor job and clean out the grease from the cylinder.

Quick questions anyone:
#1. Let’s just assume that some grease and/or some clean fluid (PB-Blaster, etc) that migrated its way into the base pan. Is this anything I need to worry about…or will it all burn out once (or if) I get it running?
#2. I am not 100% sure that the Decompression valve works. For starters…how is it removed? Do I remove the operating rod and unthread it? It will it just fall out? (Best to ask first before I start removal).
#3. What is the compression suppose to be for a Super797?

Anyway, at least I got the piston freed up….now let’s see how things go from here?

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Congratulations!

My suggestion (and probably that of others as well), is to now tear the saw down for a close examination of the piston, cylinder, and crankcase (among other things). There will most certainly be remaining effects of whatever caused the piston to become stuck on both the piston and the cylinder. And depending on the cause, there could also be residual elements present in the crankcase.

Now that the crank is turning, it's time to give that saw some serious attention to see where you are with it. Trying to start it without knowing a little (a lot?) more about it's internal condition could possibly cause additional (and unnecessary) problems in getting it back to acceptable running condition.

Those saws don't pop up often. You're over the initial hurdle. Others more familiar with that particular Mac will most likely chime in with assistance. Go slowly and keep asking questions. It would be a shame to lose patience with it now!

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Here's a fairly clean IPL that may help depending on which one you already have. A shop manual will be hard to find.

 

[edju1958]

What does anyone know about parts availability of the Partner P100 - Mac PM1000?There's one on Feebay that apparently has broken AV mounts.Are those still available,or a thing of the past?

 

[Alaskan Stihl]

Pogointhewoods: Ugh…I was afraid someone was going to say that. What I know (unless the seller BS’d me) is that it used to run…but just sat around. He was going to get it running for his Alaskan Mill…. but never got the time to mess with it. He dug it out of a pile of junk that he had stacked up and sold me it (and what was supposed to be another small McCulloch…but turned out to be a Skill Chainsaw). I tried to pull the cord on the McCulloch only to discover it was seized. He sold me both saws for $40.

Now that the piston is free…I was actually going to flush out the cylinder a little more then run a compression test on it and see what that yielded…then try to start it up….but, now I guess I might reconsider..ugh.

Here is the serial # info (see pic). I am assuming the #13 tells me that this among one of the first ones out (April 1969 - July 1969) Thoughts?

 

[edju1958]

I put a different clutch on the 10-10 & got the same resuilts - ring like a dinner bell.I've exhausted my options,I even tried another recoil/cover.Time to strip it down & take it out back for target practice unless someone here can tell me why it's doing this.I even looked at the IPL to make sure I hadfn't deleted anything accidentally.

Meanwhile,I started working on another 10-10,this one is a LH start (normal).It needed a fuel tank cover to start & I found one with the screws it needed to put it on the saw.The gasket looked good,so I just put a small bead of Yamabond on it & tightened it down.The recoil was missing a couple screws,so I robbed them off another 10-10 LH start.I also found a good fuel line that I gave a couple wraps of Teflon tape to ensure no leaks.I'll need to rob a couple bar stud nuts from the old 10-10 that's obviously possessed.Next on the agenda is to put a carb on the saw & then fabricate another air filter bracket.

 

[Woodslasher]

I put a different clutch on the 10-10 & got the same results - ring like a dinner bell. I've exhausted my options, I even tried another recoil/cover. Time to strip it down & take it out back for target practice unless someone here can tell me why it's doing this. I even looked at the IPL to make sure I hadn't deleted anything accidentally.

Meanwhile, I started working on another 10-10,this one is a LH start (normal). It needed a fuel tank cover to start & I found one with the screws it needed to put it on the saw. The gasket looked good, so I just put a small bead of Yamabond on it & tightened it down. The recoil was missing a couple screws, so I robbed them off another 10-10 LH start. I also found a good fuel line that I gave a couple wraps of Teflon tape to ensure no leaks. I'll need to rob a couple bar stud nuts from the old 10-10 that's obviously possessed. Next on the agenda is to put a carb on the saw & then fabricate another air filter bracket.

I'd check the drum/bearing for slop. Then again, some saws I've run just "ping" for no apparent reason and others of the same model don't.

 

[mogulmasher]

Yep I've had some that ring like that. I just run it.....

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Just shut it off and go eat.