McCulloch Chain Saws

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I couldn't go to bed last night without knowing if I could turn the engine over,so I went out & got a flywheel & put it on the crank & it turned over nicely.That's the good news,now for the bad.The short block is unuseable in this application.I thought a 10-10 short block was a 10-10 short block - not the case.I was going to use the short block on a 10-10A,but it's a PM 10-10 short block.The difference being there's no keyway cut on the clutch side,& it looks like the keyway on the flywheel side is in a different spot.I'd have to change out cranks & that's not happening.I don't know if that'd even work.
Changing out a crankshaft does work. Lots of effort but it would work just fine.
 
When I stated I was being ignored here I felt I was.I don't think it should take 2-3 days for someone to reply to a simple question.Obviously ya have to belong to a clique to get an answer & I'm a lone wolf,always have been.
I wouldn't take it personally. I (and others) have had questions go unanswered. People are busy and new posts distract from previous ones.
Also this isn't a service that one should expect to be provided, it's members being kind enough to share their knowledge when they can.
 
Just going through my shopping list of parts required (so far) for my two new acquisitions:

PM700:
- Fuel cap (old one melted)
- Starter grill surround (old one melted)
- Clutch cover (missing), I might try to get one with a chain brake
- Bar plates (missing)
- Spark plug terminal (missing)
- Spark plug (missing)

Mystery Saw:
- Air filter (missing)
- Air filter cover (missing)
- Possibly a new clutch cover (broken)
- Bar plates (missing)

Looks like I'll be heading to ebay as there's not much around here.
I've got a few peices, like a gas cap if you want,but @heimannm makes the best chip guards and handle inserts.
 
I've got a few peices, like a gas cap if you want,but @heimannm makes the best chip guards and handle inserts.
Thanks, I'll try to look locally first as shipping from the US to here is horrendous and I recently read that USPS just aren't doing it anymore.
 
Thanks, I'll try to look locally first as shipping from the US to here is horrendous and I recently read that USPS just aren't doing it anymore.
USPS isn't doing what anymore?Shipping internationally?As far as I know they still ship worldwide.It'd be foolish on therir part not to ship worldwide,the competition would destroy them.I've used USPS to ship to Jethro in the past & to a friend in Taiwan & Philippines.
 
USPS isn't doing what anymore?Shipping internationally?As far as I know they still ship worldwide.It'd be foolish on therir part not to ship worldwide,the competition would destroy them.I've used USPS to ship to Jethro in the past & to a friend in Taiwan & Philippines.
Yeah apparently there are a few international destinations they are no longer shipping to and NZ is one of them:
1633647786332.png
https://about.usps.com/newsroom/service-alerts/international/welcome.htm

Actually I can get things sent an NZ Post depot in Seattle if I need to.
 
All (HELP): I have a McCulloch Wildcat that I purchased at a garage sale ($20). Issue is that someone put Bar Oil in the Gas Tank (known at time of purchase).
After cleaning out all the oil (carb, gas tank etc).

After reassembly, I try starting it and it runs only as much fuel as I prime the carb with (in other words, it is not pumping fuel). I cleaned out the Fuel Filter (going to remove it temporarily to see if that is the issue). If not…my guess is that the carb needs a rebuild kit???
Any more suggestions?
 
Overall question for Saw Mechs: It has been my experience (albeit, very limited) that when you run into a saw that will only run as long as you have fuel primed in the carburetor (meaning that it won’t pump fuel), that most generally it has to do with diaphragms etc within the carburetor (keeping in mind that the fuel filter is clean, clean gas, fuel lines not cracked or clogged etc).

To be honest, up until I dove into the complete overhaul of my MS290 last month…I thought Chainsaws had some type of removable fuel pump in place until I was educated by our local Stihl Shop Mechanic that Chainsaws use impulse lines and not fuel pumps.

With all that said, I now have (2) McCullochs that will run out…once the prime fuel is depleted (poured into carburetor).


My first step (after checking filter,m and fuel lines) is rebuild the carburetor (Parts kit is on the way), but the question is: Is there another place to look for issues regarding no fuel pressure? Note: As suggested, I plan on soaking this Carburetor for while to see if I can break up any possible clogs in the carb…

I know…probably a stupid question to ask, but I would rather “learn from your mistakes, rather than make my own”….haha

Alaskan Stihl
 
The other possible culprit is the impulse port. Where the carburetor attaches to the saw there is a tiny hole that goes to the cylinder. As the piston moves up and down it creates pulse for those diaphragms to pump with. If that little port is not open it will not work. To check it, remove the carburetor and turn the engine over. Youll hear/feel air coming from that hole. Not likely gonna be plugged but something to always check. On antivibe saws theres a short hose between the tank and cylinder. That hose could be a source for loss of impulse as well if its got cracks or broken or not in place. Just a few things to check. No dumb questions if you dont know or arent sure.
 
Overall question for Saw Mechs: It has been my experience (albeit, very limited) that when you run into a saw that will only run as long as you have fuel primed in the carburetor (meaning that it won’t pump fuel), that most generally it has to do with diaphragms etc within the carburetor (keeping in mind that the fuel filter is clean, clean gas, fuel lines not cracked or clogged etc).

To be honest, up until I dove into the complete overhaul of my MS290 last month…I thought Chainsaws had some type of removable fuel pump in place until I was educated by our local Stihl Shop Mechanic that Chainsaws use impulse lines and not fuel pumps.

With all that said, I now have (2) McCullochs that will run out…once the prime fuel is depleted (poured into carburetor).


My first step (after checking filter,m and fuel lines) is rebuild the carburetor (Parts kit is on the way), but the question is: Is there another place to look for issues regarding no fuel pressure? Note: As suggested, I plan on soaking this Carburetor for while to see if I can break up any possible clogs in the carb…

I know…probably a stupid question to ask, but I would rather “learn from your mistakes, rather than make my own”….haha

Alaskan Stihl
On a non runner. after making sure its got spark I check fuel filter and line.. With the symptoms you are describing the carb most likely needs a kit. Dont forget after disassembling the carb and soaking it in a cleaner to used compressed air to blow it out and off good before you reassemble it. (Ask me how i know lol)
 
As far as the impulse port or line one trick that the local shop taught me was to put a dab of regular grease over the hole or line and pull the starter over, it should move the grease ,sucked in then spit it out ,depending on the stroke . Grease won't hurt the internals either.
I've run into 2 blocked ports .
A hole or crack in either the impulse or fuel line will smoke a piston if the saw can still run ,so I always check them and toss the old filter.
 
The fuel line should also be checked for integrity, old Homelites in particular are notorious for having the fuel line rot off inside the tank. Always check to make sure the gasket has holes that correspond with the opening in the flange and the carburetor for the impulse signal on those that utilize and "internal" impulse signal and that the gasket is properly positioned. Once you work on a few large frame front tank McCulloch saws you will understand the significance of the gaskets and the ports.

On saws with an "external" impulse signal and line, make sure the line has no holes or cracks and that the ends are securely seated on both nipples (carburetor and crankcase).

I recently was working on a Stihl 880 that would not draw fuel and it turned out the cylinder bolts were loose so there was no impulse signal being supplied to the carburetor to pump fuel.

All of that said, replacing the diaphragms is the most common solution, also check the height of the metering lever to make sure it is within the recommended guidelines and always pressure test the carburetor before reinstalling the carburetor to verify that everything is in good working order.

Mark
 
I recently was working on a Stihl 880 that would not draw fuel and it turned out the cylinder bolts were loose so there was no impulse signal being supplied to the carburetor to pump fuel.
Similarly, even bad crank seals can kill (or diminish) the impulse signal to the extent that it will not operate a pump diaphragm -- as will any significant breach of crankcase integrity. Sometimes we just don't think about that aspect until all else has been explored. Another reason to have a vac/pressure setup handy (with lots of adaptors) and being comfortable enough to just grab it for all sorts of things. They sure do save a lot of tail chasin' once you get used to using one.
 

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