McCulloch Chain Saws

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I did some digging around in the garage today & I found another 10-10A that I knew I had.The compression is so low it won't fire anymore.It has great spark though.Anyway I started tearing it down to put another short block in it.I started at 5:00 p.m. & got it down to the muffler,oil tank,& front handle need to come off yet.I've only had the short block for about 3 1/2 yrs.now,Lol.Any tips on putting it back together?Something else I noticed - the fuel tank didn't have a hole in the front for a screw to hold it to the oil tank.Is thast hole going to cause a leak?
 
Behind the carb if its still there. Look at the cylinder fin's it will tell ya if 70cc. Look at your 2-10 you'll see the difference
Mystery Saw: The fins have a smaller radius at the corners compared to the 2-10. They look squarer like yours.
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Also, it is not seized. I took the clutch cover off and could turn it over easily. It is the starter which is stuck.
It didn't seem to have any compression, although the muffler is loose.
 
I did some digging around in the garage today & I found another 10-10A that I knew I had.The compression is so low it won't fire anymore.It has great spark though.Anyway I started tearing it down to put another short block in it.I started at 5:00 p.m. & got it down to the muffler,oil tank,& front handle need to come off yet.I've only had the short block for about 3 1/2 yrs.now,Lol.Any tips on putting it back together?
1 tip i try to do is put the oil tank bolts on first and tighten them up, then the 4 smaller ones and snug them down. Also the oil tank to cylinder a pretty thin sealing layer of something of your choice. Everyone has a favorite. I simply use red high temp rtv. Theres many choices and opinions. Mac used a thin layer of silicone. Lasted for decades.
 
1 tip i try to do is put the oil tank bolts on first and tighten them up, then the 4 smaller ones and snug them down. Also the oil tank to cylinder a pretty thin sealing layer of something of your choice. Everyone has a favorite. I simply use red high temp rtv. Theres many choices and opinions. Mac used a thin layer of silicone. Lasted for decades.
I was under the impression that I'd be using my old oil tank,but I just pulled the short block out of it's packaging & it has an oil tank already attached to it.I also got an entire gasket kit & a new snubber.I tried to turn the engine over by hand using just the crankshaft & it wouldn't move.Is that normal?BTW,it's only been 2 1/2 yrs.since I bought it,the paperwork was dated 3/19.
 
I am getting some practice in before I start on Ed's collection of 300 Series saws.

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Among other things, I had to replace the throttle cable on this one today. If you've never worked on a 300 Series saws...good for you. These are about as difficult as any saw I have ever had on the bench. In many ways, the Mini Mac 6 is probably easier...

The sad thing is, once you get them together and running properly they are fine little saws.

And look who just popped in right above me...

Mark
 
Mark,I'm glad you're getting in the mood to tackle my saws,Lol.I've got a Mac Wild Cat that looks exactly like the Mac Cat.As a matter of fact,when I asked for an IPL,Ray Benson told me that those 2 saws have the ssme model #,which I thought was rather strange that 2 different saws could have the same model #.I've got another 310 here Mark that I picked up on Feebay for $15 as a parts saw,but it's in too good of shape to tear it apart.The chain brake is all busted up,but I found another one for it.It ran for a bit,then I saw it had a fuel leak,a cracked fuel tank I think,not sure at this point.
 
Going to break down my previous post one thing at a time, since it seems like nobody felt like tackling my wall of text. I don't blame you. :laugh:

Starting with the piston and cylinder of the Super Pro 81...
I had previously done some work cleaning the piston. You can see some scoring, but it's light enough that I can't really feel it with my fingernail. Maybe some new rings and good to go?
The cylinder has me more concerned, however. You can see a big something here that my fingernail catches on badly. How do you determine if this is scraped away chrome or aluminum transfer? What's the best course of action to take on this cylinder to get it ready to go, if it's still usable?
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G70 good saw to keep an eye out for.
I actually already have a G70 that I discovered around the same time I got this SP81. Is it actually rare? I can't remember if it was or not.
Absolute mad max frankensaw. I still smile when I think back to the original state I got it in. Last pic is the state I left it in after I swapped out the lower half fuel tank/airbox/handle piece which was cracked with a nice clean yellow donor one from a parts 10-10. I'm hoping to tackle the G70 after I get the SP81 rebuilt, since I'm almost certain the G70 has some major engine issues going on.
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Hey! Since it looks like a MacCat is mentioned…
I just picked up a McCulloch Wildcat at a Garage Sale for $20. The issue was…that the Seller loaned the saw out and the guys wife poured Bar Oil in the Gas Tank…

So, I dismantled the carburetor (cleaned) and flushed the tank out…also drained some oil from the cylinder.

During course of the operation, I also discovered the fuel line had a inch crack in it from corrosion (broke off in my hand) and the pulse line has several fatigue cracks. Obviously, I replaced the lines…

And am just now getting ready to install the carburetor…but I am confused on how the “Throttle Latch” is a suppose to engage? When I disassembled it, there was very little room to see what was going on underneath the cover and it sort of released itself…
The question is: How does this go back together? Here is a pic of what I am looking at (see attached).

I am going try installing it tonight and see if if somehow works…hopefully something didn’t break? It worked before I dismantled it…dunno…? If you have some advice for reassembly (or better yet a picture) that would be awesome! Does the plunger go over? Under? Beside? What in the world?
 

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Going to break down my previous post one thing at a time, since it seems like nobody felt like tackling my wall of text. I don't blame you. :laugh:

Starting with the piston and cylinder of the Super Pro 81...
I had previously done some work cleaning the piston. You can see some scoring, but it's light enough that I can't really feel it with my fingernail. Maybe some new rings and good to go?
The cylinder has me more concerned, however. You can see a big something here that my fingernail catches on badly. How do you determine if this is scraped away chrome or aluminum transfer? What's the best course of action to take on this cylinder to get it ready to go, if it's still usable?
View attachment 933578
View attachment 933577


I actually already have a G70 that I discovered around the same time I got this SP81. Is it actually rare? I can't remember if it was or not.
Absolute mad max frankensaw. I still smile when I think back to the original state I got it in. Last pic is the state I left it in after I swapped out the lower half fuel tank/airbox/handle piece which was cracked with a nice clean yellow donor one from a parts 10-10. I'm hoping to tackle the G70 after I get the SP81 rebuilt, since I'm almost certain the G70 has some major engine issues going on.
View attachment 933579
View attachment 933580
View attachment 933581
The piston looks usable with some light scotch bright pad rubbing.
The cylinder looks concerning? If the scratch is through the chrome lining it could start peeling off as the saw is running or maybe not since its vertical.
It almost looks like something got stuck between the cylinder and piston and gouged it?
Many of us runs saws with a cylinder that is less than ideal, smooth up the edges of any gouges and remove any transfer.
 
Going to break down my previous post one thing at a time, since it seems like nobody felt like tackling my wall of text. I don't blame you. :laugh:

Starting with the piston and cylinder of the Super Pro 81...
I had previously done some work cleaning the piston. You can see some scoring, but it's light enough that I can't really feel it with my fingernail. Maybe some new rings and good to go?
The cylinder has me more concerned, however. You can see a big something here that my fingernail catches on badly. How do you determine if this is scraped away chrome or aluminum transfer? What's the best course of action to take on this cylinder to get it ready to go, if it's still usable?
View attachment 933578
View attachment 933577


I actually already have a G70 that I discovered around the same time I got this SP81. Is it actually rare? I can't remember if it was or not.
Absolute mad max frankensaw. I still smile when I think back to the original state I got it in. Last pic is the state I left it in after I swapped out the lower half fuel tank/airbox/handle piece which was cracked with a nice clean yellow donor one from a parts 10-10. I'm hoping to tackle the G70 after I get the SP81 rebuilt, since I'm almost certain the G70 has some major engine issues going on.
View attachment 933579
View attachment 933580
View attachment 933581
Oh and the Titan 70 is a rare saw from the McCulloch line up, Italian made.
 
Just going through my shopping list of parts required (so far) for my two new acquisitions:

PM700:
- Fuel cap (old one melted)
- Starter grill surround (old one melted)
- Clutch cover (missing), I might try to get one with a chain brake
- Bar plates (missing)
- Spark plug terminal (missing)
- Spark plug (missing)

Mystery Saw:
- Air filter (missing)
- Air filter cover (missing)
- Possibly a new clutch cover (broken)
- Bar plates (missing)

Looks like I'll be heading to ebay as there's not much around here.
 
Ok…figured it out. It seems to be one of those type of assemblies where you don’t get too wrapped up in how it is suppose to work…just bolt it up…and it works…
 
I was under the impression that I'd be using my old oil tank,but I just pulled the short block out of it's packaging & it has an oil tank already attached to it.I also got an entire gasket kit & a new snubber.I tried to turn the engine over by hand using just the crankshaft & it wouldn't move.Is that normal?BTW,it's only been 2 1/2 yrs.since I bought it,the paperwork was dated 3/19.
If its been sitting that long its likely just dry and stuck. Use some spray lube and soak it thru ports and keep trying. Maybe put the flywheel on to give you something to grab and itll break loose.
 
I couldn't go to bed last night without knowing if I could turn the engine over,so I went out & got a flywheel & put it on the crank & it turned over nicely.That's the good news,now for the bad.The short block is unuseable in this application.I thought a 10-10 short block was a 10-10 short block - not the case.I was going to use the short block on a 10-10A,but it's a PM 10-10 short block.The difference being there's no keyway cut on the clutch side,& it looks like the keyway on the flywheel side is in a different spot.I'd have to change out cranks & that's not happening.I don't know if that'd even work.
 
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