What a great feeling it is!!! That is fantastic.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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I'm excited for you! I'd be like a kid in a candy shop, or a lady in a shoe store......either or. Hope you came back with some good loot. Who knows maybe you'll find your diaphragm hiding in there? Let me know if you end up striking out there, I'm making one for my model 99 and could make another if needed.
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Now that was hard wood. The saw handled that .404 very well in that stuff. Good video.
That old .050 .404 is pretty aggressive too. Might be better in skip.
Might be on a 70cc saw but i think it did well. Thats big chain. 24 inch bar very hard wood. It did well. That 700 musy be healthy. Reminds me of white oak.
Well guys,I picked up a 1-70 a couple of days ago on Feebay.I was watching one 1-70 go out of my range once again when I got an alert that another 1-70 had just been listed.The seller was asking $150 or MO,so I offered him $135 & he accepted it! He was in Pa.& I'm in N.Y.,so it only took 2 days for me to get it.
I thought I'd go through it & see if it had good compression & spark,but the starter wouldn't engage on the pawls.I thought maybe the pawls were seized up,but upon taking the recoil off I found it had no pawls at all,Lol. Lucky thing for me I have a parts 1-70 that's seized,but had a perfectly good clutch with pawls.Unfortunately I couldn't find my rope I use as a piston stop,& it was beginning to rain again,so called it quits for the day.I did find some starter ropes while going through my parts totes looking for some 10-10 choke rods,so I'll have a go at pulling the pawlless clutch tomorrow.I think someone had this poor saw half buried for a while - it was covered in oily dirt.No mag rot though that I could see.The manual oiler might take a little work to get it freed up too.The air filter was covered in oily dirt too,but on the upside,the air box is spotless.It came with what looked to be a 20 in.bar & .404 chain.I've seen 52 Oregon chain,but not familiar with 62 Oregon chain.I'll get pics of the saw on here ASAP.
I thought I'd go through it & see if it had good compression & spark,but the starter wouldn't engage on the pawls.I thought maybe the pawls were seized up,but upon taking the recoil off I found it had no pawls at all,Lol. Lucky thing for me I have a parts 1-70 that's seized,but had a perfectly good clutch with pawls.Unfortunately I couldn't find my rope I use as a piston stop,& it was beginning to rain again,so called it quits for the day.I did find some starter ropes while going through my parts totes looking for some 10-10 choke rods,so I'll have a go at pulling the pawlless clutch tomorrow.I think someone had this poor saw half buried for a while - it was covered in oily dirt.No mag rot though that I could see.The manual oiler might take a little work to get it freed up too.The air filter was covered in oily dirt too,but on the upside,the air box is spotless.It came with what looked to be a 20 in.bar & .404 chain.I've seen 52 Oregon chain,but not familiar with 62 Oregon chain.I'll get pics of the saw on here ASAP.
This is from a 1968 Oregon Catalog Ed.
Thanks Ira,now I'll have to measure between the rivets to see what it is.I've never had a 7/16 chain before,all new to me!
Alaskan Stihl
ArboristSite Operative
Grrrrrr…..
If it’s not one thing - it another…
So, I took the Wildcat (this is the one that I bought for $20 after someone poured Bar Oil in the fuel tank). Anyhow, I took it out for another spin today (limbing trees for firewood) and each time I start it up and run it….it starts and runs better than the last time! WAHOO! My Carb Kit came in yesterday, however, I have decided to continue to use it and see if any residuals get burned off. It appears Inam nearly there now.
THAT IS UNTIL…I pulled the ripcord for the next tree and now it won’t catch (something must have broke with the dogs or something). Groan….
To make matters worse, my Cork Fuel Cap Gaskets arrived for my McCulloch 10-10, so I figured I would simply slide the old one off and replace it…
Not so much…
My saw still has the ball chain keeper. It appears that it is riveted to the top of the cap and not sure how it’s connected at the other end. Does anyone have any tips on replacing the cork gasket without fouling up the keeper assembly???
If it’s not one thing - it another…
So, I took the Wildcat (this is the one that I bought for $20 after someone poured Bar Oil in the fuel tank). Anyhow, I took it out for another spin today (limbing trees for firewood) and each time I start it up and run it….it starts and runs better than the last time! WAHOO! My Carb Kit came in yesterday, however, I have decided to continue to use it and see if any residuals get burned off. It appears Inam nearly there now.
THAT IS UNTIL…I pulled the ripcord for the next tree and now it won’t catch (something must have broke with the dogs or something). Groan….
To make matters worse, my Cork Fuel Cap Gaskets arrived for my McCulloch 10-10, so I figured I would simply slide the old one off and replace it…
Not so much…
My saw still has the ball chain keeper. It appears that it is riveted to the top of the cap and not sure how it’s connected at the other end. Does anyone have any tips on replacing the cork gasket without fouling up the keeper assembly???
Sounds like something the Mrs would have...
Alaskan Stihl
ArboristSite Operative
Ya know…I just thought about that! Maybe I could snip the chain somewhere in the center…and then put one of those double ballchain connectors to keep them attached after I swap out the gasket…
The wife said she has a few necklaces that have those types of clasps on them…
Well, one down…now on to the ripcord on the Wildcat….
The wife said she has a few necklaces that have those types of clasps on them…
Well, one down…now on to the ripcord on the Wildcat….
Alaskan Stihl
ArboristSite Operative
Wildcat repaired….I think.
Ya know (and this is going to sound stupid I know) but I think that the reason the saw didn’t engage is possibly because I turned it off improperly. I am so use to just hitting the kill switch in Stihls that I tend to forget that you are supposed to pull the cord out while hitting the switch on McCullochs. The question is (brace yourself)…are you suppose to pull out the rip cord…and while extending it…then you hit the kill switch? Or, are you suppose to pull out the rip cord to about 6” and stop…then hit the kill switch?
Ya know (and this is going to sound stupid I know) but I think that the reason the saw didn’t engage is possibly because I turned it off improperly. I am so use to just hitting the kill switch in Stihls that I tend to forget that you are supposed to pull the cord out while hitting the switch on McCullochs. The question is (brace yourself)…are you suppose to pull out the rip cord…and while extending it…then you hit the kill switch? Or, are you suppose to pull out the rip cord to about 6” and stop…then hit the kill switch?
Ive gotten in the habit of just pulling the cord out a few inches, 6 is fine, on all my saws i run. That would be sufficient. Just enough to allow the starter pawls to hit the recoil and not pop the handle off. I hsve had that happen a couple times.
Hi Guys,
Justin wanting some information if possible please.
Do all McCulloch 850 saws have a decomp Valve ? Mine does not and it looks like it never has had one. The hole is there, but it looks to be blocked off. I used torch and couldn't see anything down the hole. I am assuming that if it was supposed to have a decomp valve I should be able to see into the cylinder through the hole in the cylinder.
Also I need to get a carby kit for it, it is a Zama C2 on it, can anyone tell me the correct rebuild kit I will need ?
Also I noticed that there was a very small hole under the carby on top of the housing where the czrby bolts down , it looks like it would be the vaccum is pulled from to make the carby work. Am I correct ?
Cheers
Justin
Justin wanting some information if possible please.
Do all McCulloch 850 saws have a decomp Valve ? Mine does not and it looks like it never has had one. The hole is there, but it looks to be blocked off. I used torch and couldn't see anything down the hole. I am assuming that if it was supposed to have a decomp valve I should be able to see into the cylinder through the hole in the cylinder.
Also I need to get a carby kit for it, it is a Zama C2 on it, can anyone tell me the correct rebuild kit I will need ?
Also I noticed that there was a very small hole under the carby on top of the housing where the czrby bolts down , it looks like it would be the vaccum is pulled from to make the carby work. Am I correct ?
Cheers
Justin
Short of pictures, the decomp hole makes a 90° turn I believe ,and yes on the carby hole ,that should be your impulse port.
The chain is simply attached to a retainer in the tank the can be worked up through the opening fairly easily if it hasn't gotten too brittle. In that case, a creative snip here and there should allow it to be removed and still serve its purpose afterward. The chain can also be removed at the cap by carefully pulling the rivet/pin that holds the retainer piece in place on the post. You will also find a duckbill tank vent assembly underneath the post that is notorious for deterioration and ultimately leaking fuel, too. If you bought your gasket(s) from ebay seller gotfishon, I've found it necessary to double them up on certain tank openings to get a non-leaking fit. If the cap is tight and you still have a fuel leak, it will likely be time to investigate the vent assembly. Lots of info and pics available on that subject should you need to go there.
Hey Guys -
I posted a review of the re-pop intake boots for CP-125, SP-105, and SP-125/125c that will soon be available from Traverse Creek. I installed one on a 125c I built a couple years ago and I'm
very happy with it. The texture and quality of the rubber seems excellent and the boot was easy to install and maintained its shape well. This is gonna be a great option for guys rebuilding the
CP/SP platform saws.
I posted a review of the re-pop intake boots for CP-125, SP-105, and SP-125/125c that will soon be available from Traverse Creek. I installed one on a 125c I built a couple years ago and I'm
very happy with it. The texture and quality of the rubber seems excellent and the boot was easy to install and maintained its shape well. This is gonna be a great option for guys rebuilding the
CP/SP platform saws.
I've seen guys make cobbled-together Mac intake boots out of anything you can imagine - cut-down Stihl 088 intake boots, heater hoses, deformed Stihl MS-660 boots - I even saw one once that
a guy made out of leather that he glued together and used pipe clamps on. The replacement part from The Duke I think is gonna be a winner. It cleanly snapped onto the intake manifold and after
installing on the tank, sealed up good between the tank and the manifold.
a guy made out of leather that he glued together and used pipe clamps on. The replacement part from The Duke I think is gonna be a winner. It cleanly snapped onto the intake manifold and after
installing on the tank, sealed up good between the tank and the manifold.
You just need to swap over the spring and collars from the old boot and you'll be good to go.
There was a small run of re-pop boots (300) made by one of the Go-Kart guys in Ohio a few years ago and they literally sold out
in just a few days and the guy didn't even advertise them. I think this will be a good seller when Traverse Creek makes them available.
I plan on buying a few. Here's one on a runner:
There was a small run of re-pop boots (300) made by one of the Go-Kart guys in Ohio a few years ago and they literally sold out
in just a few days and the guy didn't even advertise them. I think this will be a good seller when Traverse Creek makes them available.
I plan on buying a few. Here's one on a runner:
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