McCulloch Chain Saws

[ThistleIA]

My CP125,125C & 125C with 101B all perform flawlessly with no issues.That said,having no spare boots for them & reluctant to buy older used ones because of the normal problems makes me quite happy with this news.Will definitely be watching to see when they're available.

 

[Caneman]

Hey Guys -

I posted a review of the re-pop intake boots for CP-125, SP-105, and SP-125/125c that will soon be available from Traverse Creek. I installed one on a 125c I built a couple years ago and I'm
very happy with it. The texture and quality of the rubber seems excellent and the boot was easy to install and maintained its shape well. This is gonna be a great option for guys rebuilding the
CP/SP platform saws.

Awesome. Cheers for the report & guinea pig duties! I watched your vid on youtube this morning during coffee.

 

[northwest saws]

I've seen guys make cobbled-together Mac intake boots out of anything you can imagine - cut-down Stihl 088 intake boots, heater hoses, deformed Stihl MS-660 boots - I even saw one once that
a guy made out of leather that he glued together and used pipe clamps on. The replacement part from The Duke I think is gonna be a winner. It cleanly snapped onto the intake manifold and after
installing on the tank, sealed up good between the tank and the manifold.

Thanks for the review! Excellent news for lots of folks I think. The sp125 I picked up a couple months back has a really good boot but when these guys start selling then I will probably get a couple for future saws/backup parts. I'd love to see the boot that fella made out of leather and pipe clamps. Now that is being creative!

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[edju1958]

That is really great news! I was lucky enough to get a pair of boots back in June for my SP125 that I was putting together.Do you have any idea as to how much they'll be charging for these new boots?

 

[Jacob J.]

That is really great news! I was lucky enough to get a pair of boots back in June for my SP125 that I was putting together.Do you have any idea as to how much they'll be charging for these new boots?

I'm not sure, Ed - but knowing The Duke, they'll be reasonably priced. I'm planning on picking up 4-5 just to have them on hand.

 

[Syncop8r]

Ya know…I just thought about that! Maybe I could snip the chain somewhere in the center…and then put one of those double ballchain connectors to keep them attached after I swap out the gasket…
The wife said she has a few necklaces that have those types of clasps on them…
Well, one down…now on to the ripcord on the Wildcat….

I actually meant something else but all good.

 

[Syncop8r]

Wildcat repaired….I think.
Ya know (and this is going to sound stupid I know) but I think that the reason the saw didn’t engage is possibly because I turned it off improperly. I am so use to just hitting the kill switch in Stihls that I tend to forget that you are supposed to pull the cord out while hitting the switch on McCullochs. The question is (brace yourself)…are you suppose to pull out the rip cord…and while extending it…then you hit the kill switch? Or, are you suppose to pull out the rip cord to about 6” and stop…then hit the kill switch?

 

[edju1958]

Update on the 1-70.I took a closer look at the chain today & found that it wasn't stamped 62,it was stamped B2.It must be a .404 chain because when I pulled the old clutch off I had to replace the rim because it was worn out.The rim was a .404 7 tooth.The recoil worked fine after that,but first I removed about a lb.of dirt & oil.I got the saw to fire up on a prime,but I had to put a different plug in it,it had a DJ6J in it.I put a CJ8 in it for now till I can get the right plug for it.It fires on a prime only,will not draw fuel on it's own.I don't think it's in the carb,but rather i n the wick filter in the tank.This saw inspired me to haul out a 1-75 that I'
ve hadf stashed in the back shed for almost 4 yrs.now.The recoil on it needs some work - the recoil spring is missing to start with & maybe more components too.The 1-75 is an absolute beast!

 

[lohan808]

Got a 10-10A with a rough looking p/c. Really want to put it back in service. Anybody know if there is a supplier making p/c kits for the 10-10 that aren't cheap Chinese crap? Hoping for a miracle...

 

[edju1958]

Got a 10-10A with a rough looking p/c. Really want to put it back in service. Anybody know if there is a supplier making p/c kits for the 10-10 that aren't cheap Chinese crap? Hoping for a miracle...

Do not use a 'Lil Red Barn Piston kit! You can most likely still get an OEM P&C from Bob Johnson.He only does phone & fax sales.His phone # 607-638-9297.He does have PM 10-10 short blocks for around $100 that can be made to work on the 10-10A.

 

[Captain Jack]

I'm new to the site and I have a question regarding a PM 610 that I "inherited" from a friend. I haven't taken it apart yet, the only obvious thing is that the starter rope is detached from the flywheel. My friend stated that he hasn't used the saw in 2 years.
I would greatly appreciate any replies regarding whether it is worth the possible effort and expense of Rehabilitation...
Many Thanks from a newbie..!!

 

[2broke2ride]

Hi guys, sorry I've been absent for a while again lately, I've been so busy with customer work (mostly off brand) that I haven't had any time for my own stuff. That said, I'm still on the lookout for saws and managed to grab this one! I have been looking for one of these for a few years now. Hoping someone can verify for me based on the numbers that it is indeed a 550. It is not stamped with the model like other large frame saws I'm used to but all evidence points to it being a 550.
It pulls over good with crazy compression, fuel tank us clean but stinks of bad gas. Hopefully a carb rebuild or swap to a Tillotson will make a runner out of it.

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[ThistleIA]

63436 is indeed the part number for the 550 block 6.03 cube/99cc

 

[2broke2ride]

63436 is indeed the part number for the 550 block 6.03 cube/99cc

Nice, that's what I want to hear!!! I might have paid too much ($160 to my door) but I'm ok with it!!! Actually super stoked, I love the front tank saws, only thing that would be better would be a Super 550! Lol.

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[matt_lamb_160]

Nice 550. I just altered the reed assembly on mine while it was a part:



Need a bigger carb on it now.

 

[matt_lamb_160]

I wish they sold for $160 here. Usually closer to $400 AUD not running.

 

[edju1958]

I think you did very well at $160 for that 550 delivered.I got a 450 back in May & paid almost the same for that.I'd check the P&C,put in a new plug,& a new fuel filter & try it.Of course check for spark too.A lot of times if the saw was ran empty & just sat for a while you'll have that nasty gas smell in the tank,but the carb will be good.No sense in doing something that don't need to be done.I'm a firm believer in "if it ain't broke don't fix it".Good to see you back again Kevin!

 

[matt_lamb_160]

Totally agree with not unbolting more than is needed to get them going (assuming there is nothing that could cause them damage).

With my 550 the carb initially came off because it wouldn't pull fuel and while it was off I detected that it had a couple of crank case leaks including one at the bearing insert in PTO side of the block (part of the reason for not pulling fuel, but the carb's internal filter was also fully blocked). This is my fix for it (gasketed under the plate):

 

[lohan808]

Do not use a 'Lil Red Barn Piston kit! You can most likely still get an OEM P&C from Bob Johnson.He only does phone & fax sales.His phone # 607-638-9297.He does have PM 10-10 short blocks for around $100 that can be made to work on the 10-10A.

Hey brother thanks for the heads up. I will reach out to Bob today.

 

[heimannm]

Captain Jack - The 600 Series saws don't get a lot of love from many guys but they are not bad saws if the compression is O.K....ideally 150+ PSI. The starter rope is an easy fix as the whole starter comes off with 4 screws and the rope can be replaced without taking the pulley off the starter. If there is a lot of dirt/oily sawdust in the starter it is probably worth taking the pully off to give it a good cleaning. If you remove the pulley carefully the spring will stay in the housing.

Mark