McCulloch Chain Saws

[bob kern]

I use UPS to ship saws, I won't use the postal service. I've been using pirateship.com to get the labels though because you get great discounts. I just sent a stihl 036 pro with a 20" bar over to New York from Idaho for like 33 bucks and some change.

Sent from my SM-N970U using Tapatalk

Thanks!!

 

[bob kern]

Common practice is to put a a thin washer in between the tanks.
I use ups to ship saws , but pack them tight with couch cushion foam . Sans oil and gas ofcourse.

Thanks!!

 

[Syncop8r]

As far as I know the saw is a McCulloch 110 with a 16 inch bar and chain with sprocket tip . Kept it clean and greased . Runs like a champ . I think that it needs a set of points. Good compression. Manual oiler ,

110:

http://acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/c053b33ada07b90388256c2e0077d5e6
1-10:

http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.n...6af40002b8f7/76d53532ef3cd02788256b610018dec3

 

[Gumneck]

That screw should have a lock nut at the bottom. Mine stuck too, that is the way you adjust the oiler.

Interesting place to have it. Sideways screwdriver it is.

 

[Welderman85]

Hello all i just got my first mac. A guy at work knew i like to tinker so he gave me a eager bever 2.0. I looks like a nice little guy. I wanted to check out the cylinder but when i touched the plug boot it crumbled and the plug cap wire thing pulled out of the plug wire. Where can i get a coil for this saw? Are the Chinese ones any good?. Thank you

 

[Syncop8r]

Hello all i just got my first mac. A guy at work knew i like to tinker so he gave me a eager bever 2.0. I looks like a nice little guy. I wanted to check out the cylinder but when i touched the plug boot it crumbled and the plug cap wire thing pulled out of the plug wire. Where can i get a coil for this saw? Are the Chinese ones any good?. Thank you

Do you need a coil though or just this?

 

[Welderman85]

Do you need a coil though or just this?
View attachment 946348

 

[Welderman85]

Im not 100% sure. The plug wire looked like it had some cracks in it. I was thinking if a new coil was cheap and easy enough to come by i would go that route but if not that photo you posted will definitely get the old one working again. Thank you

 

[edju1958]

Im not 100% sure. The plug wire looked like it had some cracks in it. I was thinking if a new coil was cheap and easy enough to come by i would go that route but if not that photo you posted will definitely get the old one working again. Thank you

I'd just try the new boot & spring to start with.If you need to replace the coil wire,that'd be your next step,but it's a big undertaking as you'll have to pull the engine out of it's case to do it.Not an easy job,but doable.

 

[5crows]

PM = Personal Message (I think)

 

[edju1958]

Here we go gents,pics of the PM55.I found it needs a screw on the recoil cover & a bolt with the locking doohickey on the handle bracket.It needed a carb adjustment,but it runs & idles great.I can't wait to put this saw in some wood!

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Here we go gents,pics of the PM55.I found it needs a screw on the recoil cover & a bolt with the locking doohickey on the handle bracket.It needed a carb adjustment,but it runs & idles great.I can't wait to put this saw in some wood!

Thats the first all yellow one I've seen.

 

[Marvin Booysen]

Also first one I’ve seen with carb adjustment holes in the airbox.

 

[vinnywv]

Nice job ed. I bet itll cut very well and will be rather light weight. Fun saw

 

[edju1958]

Also first one I’ve seen with carb adjustment holes in the airbox.

If I'm not mistaken it uses the same adjuster needle boot/grommet as the 7-10 & 10-10S,part # 87665.

 

[edju1958]

Always gotta be a snafu.I decided to take the recoil off to give a good cleaning under the hood.I got all the screws out except for the one on the back that screws into the bolt holding the coil on.The jackass who torqued that screw in there the way he did should be horsewhipped.I tried breaking the screw loose with a scrench (usually works).I tried hitting it with a hammer to break it loose,& finally I got it loose (or so I thought) with a screwdriver bit that fits in a socket & then goes on the ratchet.It ended up that the bolt came unscrewed out of the coil mount.I had to put a box wrench on the coil bolt & use the screwdriver/ratchet tool to get the screw to break loose.What moron would put a screw in so damn tight?There was so much crud caked onto the recoil that I don't think the PO ever had the recoil off.Tomorrow I'll try to take the flywheel off to clean under it.I already got 2 handfuls of crud out from under the recoil & off the recoil.

 

[edju1958]

Thats the first all yellow one I've seen.

I guess I'm special,Lol.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

what is supposed to go between the top of the oil tank and bottom of the gas tank on a 10-10 , pm 700 etc.

It pretty much depends on the tank insulator (#64). An actual spacer is typically specified to provide level mating between the tank and short block at both the oil tank and carb/intake/tank insulator locations when the later (and thicker) insulator is used.., which is the case for most rigid mount 10 series saws. A PM700 IPL shows the tank spacer and thick insulator as do most 10 series saws with the exception of earlier ones. In instances when the earlier and thinner insulator is used, there is no spacer. A #10 washer (#59) is shown in most IPL's along with the tank attachment bolt and is shown to be installed inside the tank with the bolt.

Can you get away with just using a washer (or two)? Probably. Would it be better to have the correct thickness spacer? Probably. The considerations of not using the spacer would seem to be unnecessary stress applied to the intake insulator and possibly a clearance issue at the manual oil pump housing. That said, I'm sure there are plenty of saws out there running just fine with thick insulators and no spacers. But hey, you asked. LOL

I seem to recall Mark @heimannm posting pics of the two different insulators somewhere along the line. Perhaps he'll chime in with additional details or further clarification. He may even have a box full of 69772 tank spacers somewhere needing new homes. I'm sure most of us could use a few.

​

 

[knightmax]

Funny story...

I just got back from a month long business trip yesterday. This morning the wife and I went to get a Christmas tree. It needed the end cut for squaring and refresh for water. I got the PM 700 my uncle gave me out (That story in in another post here) to do the quick job. First time I ever cut anything with it and wanted this years tree to be that first thing. Well the carb needed some adjustment, so I did just that. About 15 minutes later and several times of starts and revs etc the small cut was completed. During this 15 minutes the wife states that this is taking long enough. I explained having to adjust the carb. She replied you have 40 plus saws, why don't you just get another one....So I did, I bought a pristine restored 7-10A from Bobby a bit ago. Thank God she has a sense of humor. LOL

 

[heimannm]

I do have a few 69772 on hand, I'll try to remember to look on Wednesday when I am back in the shop to confirm the thickness. In taking saws apart I have found no washers, fiber washers, steel washers, and fiberglass reinforced polyester washers used between the oil tank and the fuel tank.

The insulator between the fuel tank/airbox and the cylinder is thinner on the 70 cc saws and thicker on the 54/57/60 cc models and pretty well accounts for the spacing between the fuel tank and oil tank so that spacer up front doesn't seem to be a big factor in the way the saws go together or perform in the long run.

Many saws also have/had a fiber insulating washer between the shroud and the airbox (68581), many saws are missing this one as well. I have a few of these also, again I will try to remember and measure the thickness of those too.

Mark