McCulloch Chain Saws

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but it is too long for my tired finger to type on this phone.
Use your thumbs like everyone else. LOL

Sorry for being so long-winded on this 70cc piston and ring subject. It seems to have come up periodically over the years with a little more clarity each time, but still lacking an explanation for the elusive thick ring 85239 references in the publications, along with being a little confusing when it came to the ring types and their applications in general. Mark and Steve (yes, my little buddy from Opie) had it pretty well covered back a few years with others contributing along the way, but McCulloch didn't make things any easier to nail down by the info published (or omitted) in their reference material and nothing has ever really been consolidated for easy reference to date.

Anyway, after reading just about everything ever posted on the subject and mulling over every chart and associated IPL I have, not to mention contributions and input from others, I'm relatively confident about posting the following as a convenient and accurate all-in-one reference for anyone who may find it useful. And credit where credit is due -- Steve provided the rough list back when I was in the process of rebuilding Kevin's 7-10 and beginning to research all this. Mark has provided info along the way as folks have inquired about the various pistons and rings. I've simply added and consolidated additional supporting info that I believe is correct up to this point in the conversation. The only thing I'm unsure of is the material of the thick 87166 and thin 89732 rings. I may have read Mark refer to them as steel somewhere along the line? Perhaps he'll chime in to clarify. One other dangling item is the two part numbers associated with the short connecting rod. The 83060 appears to only be associated with the 69030 piston even though all the other associated components are the same. Can't have that just hanging out there, now can we? Ha!

So here's what I've come up with. Any/all corrections or additional input to the following certainly welcomed and encouraged. It's a .jpg for easy download.


70cc Pistons-Rings-Pins-Rods.jpg



 
850 did great today. 700’s and the 051 did well also.
had an unexpected helper at the splitter.
I might've missed it,but what size bar are you running on the 850?
32”
 

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Hey guys just picked up a 10 10S and quickly found out the throttle cable pops out of the trigger if I pull the trigger hard enough. I looked at the throttle linkage and the little rubber band thing that connects to the throttle and the choke is broken. Could that be my issue? Is there a quick fix for this? Thanks.
 
Hey guys just picked up a 10 10S and quickly found out the throttle cable pops out of the trigger if I pull the trigger hard enough. I looked at the throttle linkage and the little rubber band thing that connects to the throttle and the choke is broken. Could that be my issue? Is there a quick fix for this? Thanks.
It’s total junk ,just send it to me and I’ll throw it away for !! Lol on a serious note....
As I learned the other day, the snubber does more for the choke linkage than the throttle linkage. I had a separate issue with a loose bolt interfering with the throttle linkage but you can likely give the throttle linkage a slight tweak with some needle nose in the direction needed to take care of it.
 
Hey guys just picked up a 10 10S and quickly found out the throttle cable pops out of the trigger if I pull the trigger hard enough. I looked at the throttle linkage and the little rubber band thing that connects to the throttle and the choke is broken. Could that be my issue? Is there a quick fix for this? Thanks.
Yes the rubber snubber keeps tension on the linkage.
 
Seems I’d seen a 3 small zip tie fix somewhere too that was clever. Would maybe go original if I could tho. Again- maybe , depending on availability and cost. Everyone is wired a little different and that’s all good of course. I tend to lean towards anything that works and works well, but like to go original when feasible. Some guys will pay anything to go oem and that’s cool too! They usually have some awesome stuff!!!
Differences may stem some from income levels. I know I would do things drastically different if there were no $ limitations!!
Big thing to me is that we don’t knock each other on what we choose!!!! There’s plenty of people anxious to do that already!!!
 
Seems I’d seen a 3 small zip tie fix somewhere too that was clever. Would maybe go original if I could tho. Again- maybe , depending on availability and cost. Everyone is wired a little different and that’s all good of course. I tend to lean towards anything that works and works well, but like to go original when feasible. Some guys will pay anything to go oem and that’s cool too! They usually have some awesome stuff!!!
Differences may stem some from income levels. I know I would do things drastically different if there were no $ limitations!!
Big thing to me is that we don’t knock each other on what we choose!!!! There’s plenty of people anxious to do that already!!!
I'm not one of those guys who has to have everything all original & OEM.Heck,you oughta see the way I swap parts on the 10 series saws.I'm happy to have them running & running efficiently.It is getting to the point that parts are getting more scarce now than when I first started out 4 yrs.ago,& that drives the prices up.I've been on a fixed income for the past 30 yrs.& am forced to live on the same wages I was paid when I last worked over 30 yrs.ago.This leads me to be "inventive" & frugal.
 
Anybody know anything about the Silver Eagle series saws,model 3420 (60013409) in particular? I couldn't find any info on this saw anywhere.It looks very similar to the Timberbear & 610.
 
The SE 3420 is the smaller displacement version of the 600 Series saws. The two are listed as 3.4 and 3.7 In3 in some places, other places they say 3.5 and 3.7 In3, and also listed as 58 and 60 cc.

The documentation is frighteningly bad...

1642442768795.png

They actually share the same crankshaft (217041) so the stroke is the same, I believe 1.375 is actually correct. Based on the actual piston measurements I come up with:

Model Model # Piston Diameter Stroke Displacement, In3 Displacement, cc
PM605600134
1.808​
1.375​
3.528​
57.9​
PM610600133
1.837​
1.375​
3.642​
59.7​

Mark
 
The SE 3420 is the smaller displacement version of the 600 Series saws. The two are listed as 3.4 and 3.7 In3 in some places, other places they say 3.5 and 3.7 In3, and also listed as 58 and 60 cc.

The documentation is frighteningly bad...

View attachment 957037

They actually share the same crankshaft (217041) so the stroke is the same, I believe 1.375 is actually correct. Based on the actual piston measurements I come up with:

Model Model # Piston Diameter Stroke Displacement, In3 Displacement, cc
PM605600134
1.808​
1.375​
3.528​
57.9​
PM610600133
1.837​
1.375​
3.642​
59.7​

Mark
Was this an Italian made saw?And what are the parts availability?
 
Earlier models were assembled in Arizona, later models were assembled in Mexico but the design and parts manufacture was all based on McCulloch USA. I could be wrong on this but I think it is safe to say that all of the horizontal cylinder models were real McCulloch saws including the 32/35/38 cc models that were mostly plastic.

Mark
 
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