Ranger-692
ArboristSite Member
My 700 is a drip the 10 10S is more of a pour
My 700 is a drip the 10 10S is more of a pour
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/mcculloch-10-10.357440/Thanks for all the great responses from everyone.
I'm passing on this unit, but still looking for that small saw to do the limb work.
I would like to find something in the 8-9lb range; that Mac 3200 weighs in at 13lbs without a bar.
Any suggestions on what to look for? How about the new Stihl?
Nice fixture setup. Mass production now!
I believe you where referring to me about the brake parts I have an 850 cover with absolutely nothing in it for brake parts. I could reproduce some of them at work. I was thinking about taking apart the cover from my 700 for examples to duplicate. I will need a handle and springs, band, and cam plate. So far that's all I know.Been a busy week...too many posts have gone by to try and answer them all...but I'll touch on a couple I remember...
Gumneck _ I have some NOS fuel lines for those top tank saws, both the tank to carb and the one in the tank. Contact me it you are interested.
Xp - I have most of the brake parts for the 10 Series models, let me know specifically what you might be looking for.
If the LRB pistons have bearings (the 600 Series I recently acquired did come with bearings) make sure they are brand name, (INA, Koyo, Torrington, ect.) and you'll be O.K. When you press them in you should have a mandrel that fits the I.D. very precisely, otherwise you risk crushing the cup slightly causing the bearing to twist and no longer run true. Here's one I made for the PTO side bearing into the insert on the 70 cc ++ saws. The bearing is in the insert, the O.D. of the mandrel fits the I.D. of the bearing very precisely to hold its shape as the bearing is pressed in. Also keep in mind that the needles are loose in those bearings and will fall out if you are not extremely careful when handling them. Washing the bearings with solvent will almost certainly clean out any oil that is sticking the needles in place and they will come out. It is possible to put them back in place using a little grease to hold them, but it is a tedious job.
View attachment 960383
Regarding the 3200, 3214, FR2.0 etc. saws. These are the last of the McCulloch saws engineered and built when McCulloch was employee owned in Arizona and assembled in Mexico. They are not bad little saws but remember that they are only 32, 35, or 38 cc depending on the model. The oil tank can be problematic, if the cap is leaking most folks overtighten it rather than replacing the gasket and putt the threads out of the cap. Most of the time they will need to have the fuel lines and oil lines replaced but they are not bad to work on and will cut a bit of wood when you're done. I think they are more comfortable than a Mini Mac to operate with the handle layout but of course they don't work like a top handle saw. I can sell a good running, clean saw that has had the fuel & oil lines replaced for $100 with a clear conscience. I would not buy one that needed work for that much. If you need to cut stuff over 8-10" in diameter all day long look for a bigger saw.
Mark
I wouldn't pass on it.
Now that's a helluva nice gesture right there. My thought is to rustle through my stash to see what brake parts I may be able to come up with for you.My thought was to make a few set to send out to those who may need them.
Thank you on both subjects!Now that's a helluva nice gesture right there. My thought is to rustle through my stash to see what brake parts I may be able to come up with for you.
Try and find a Power Mac 6 you’ll be pleasantly surprised !Thanks for all the great responses from everyone.
I'm passing on this unit, but still looking for that small saw to do the limb work.
I would like to find something in the 8-9lb range; that Mac 3200 weighs in at 13lbs without a bar.
Any suggestions on what to look for? How about the new Stihl?
Sure enough that’s what it is. Screw is not in there either. Is this something standard I can go get at a hardware store or Mcculloch specific part?Very likely the screw that mounts the fuel tank to the oil tank fell out. Take the cover off the oil tank and look inside.
Mark
Thank you! Evidently can’t open it on an iPad though? Just garbled symbols when I try to open the pdfThe disk could be from the filler cap if it's not the screen from the pickup tube. The cover bolt washer is all that's usually necessary to seal the opening for the cover bolt. The hardware for the tank is a 10-24x7/8 bolt with a #10 washer.
I posted this IPL for you the other day. Evidently you missed it.
Yes they are bent. Its spring steel. Tits up on the oil pump holes and bow is back towards the engine.Is the plate behind oil pump in a 10-10 supposed to be bent or straight also if it is supposed to be bent which direction does it go back in. Bend towards back or front.
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