McCulloch Chain Saws

[heimannm]

For removal of the flywheel side seal, I like to drill a small hole in the seal and use a simple slide hammer. I think I picked this up at Walmart years ago.







For the PTO side I made a couple of tools to aid when pressing the seal and bearing out of the insert, and back in again. The big round holds the insert, yet will allow the bearing and seal to pass through. One driver will also pass through to push the bearing and seal out, the other has a larger O.D. to properly position the seal and the bearing in the insert.





One cautionary note, don't try to press the bearing into the insert without a mandrel inside the bearing or you will risk crushing the bearing cup, or just twisting is slightly causing the bearing tray to walk off the shaft.

Mark

 

[Shaun Bowler]

I appreciate a person sharing their hobbies with us.

 

[FreakinCoolUsername]

That's the one I thought you were talking about. Here's what I suggested a few posts back...

Drill a small hole in that seal and thread a drywall screw into it to either grab with a pair o' vise-grips or to use as a means to get the seal cock-eyed enough to get underneath it with something else. Could also knock one side of it inward with a punch or screwdriver to at least get it loose and maybe crooked enough to just pry out. (Pretty much what Vinny suggested.)

And a bearing separator is exactly like a big hammer and a deep well socket -- except in reverse. It separates bearings and gears from shafts by sliding under them when a traditional puller can't fit. In most cases the bearing can be reused if not already damaged. A short vid showing how one works

​

yeah this is what i was asking about and thanks for the help. I am having issues finding the seal and try to see if i can find a new bearing.

 

[FreakinCoolUsername]

For removal of the flywheel side seal, I like to drill a small hole in the seal and use a simple slide hammer. I think I picked this up at Walmart years ago.

View attachment 966753

View attachment 966757

View attachment 966762

For the PTO side I made a couple of tools to aid when pressing the seal and bearing out of the insert, and back in again. The big round holds the insert, yet will allow the bearing and seal to pass through. One driver will also pass through to push the bearing and seal out, the other has a larger O.D. to properly position the seal and the bearing in the insert.

View attachment 966765

View attachment 966779

One cautionary note, don't try to press the bearing into the insert without a mandrel inside the bearing or you will risk crushing the bearing cup, or just twisting is slightly causing the bearing tray to walk off the shaft.

Mark

cool i might have to look into getting some tools like that. thought i just used a vice for the pto side, crossing my fingers its fine.

 

[FreakinCoolUsername]

Sometimes ya just gotta get the work done with whatever starts and has a sharp chain instead of pissin' up a rope all day trying to get your favorite runnin'.

to true...

 

[heimannm]

I have removed and installed the seals and bearings from the insert a number of times using various size sockets for holding the insert and pressing the bearing and seal, but as I mentioned installing the bearing, particularly a new bearing without a mandrel inside to maintain the true I.D. is risky. The insert with the seal with come right off the crankshaft once the saw is apart, in that case it may be easier to just pry out the old seal and press a new one in rather than messing around with the bearing. The alternate is to install the insert and bearing in the crankcase, then install the seal once the saw is reassembled; this may prove easier since you can sort or "roll" the seal over the step on the crankshaft then use a deep socket to seat it in the insert. When I install the assembled insert/bearing/seal I use a small taper sleeve to help slip the seal over the step in the crankshaft. Others have mentioned making a sleeve from a plastic bottle or even just a couple wraps of electrical tape to help guide the seal over the step.









Mark

 

[vinnywv]

Ive been asked to share these photos of 2 cylinders done up with sleeves. One is a q-port exhaust.

 

[sawfun]

Ive been asked to share these photos of 2 cylinders done up with sleeves. One is a q-port exhaust.View attachment 967041View attachment 967042View attachment 967043View attachment 967044View attachment 967045View attachment 967046View attachment 967047View attachment 967048

That is excellent, I bet guys would love sleeves like that for 125's & 101's.

 

[clint53]

I'm searching and studying 80 cc class Macs.
My largest Mac is a PM70 except a D44 I'm trying to revive.
I'm looking at models 81, 800, 805 and 850.
Which of those are parts most available for?

 

[knightmax]

Gentlemen,

Paint stripping products... I have been playing with some citrus based spray on products with so-so results. I would in interested to hear what other Mac guys use to strip paint off the hard to get to crevices when prepping for a repaint. Thanks all!

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I'm searching and studying 80 cc class Macs.
My largest Mac is a PM70 except a D44 I'm trying to revive.
I'm looking at models 81, 800, 805 and 850.
Which of those are parts most available for?

I feel like I see more of the pm800s than anything else.

 

[knightmax]

I'm searching and studying 80 cc class Macs.
My largest Mac is a PM70 except a D44 I'm trying to revive.
I'm looking at models 81, 800, 805 and 850.
Which of those are parts most available for?

The 82cc saws you mentioned above have many interchangeable parts. That being said parts for these saws are getting hard to find. Major parts like cylinders are almost unfindable. If you find one for sale make SURE the chrome in the cylinder is in good shape. A scored jug equals a parts saw or the cylinder sent off to US chrome for a rework for $280ish and 4 months wait for return.

 

[knightmax]

Ive been asked to share these photos of 2 cylinders done up with sleeves. One is a q-port exhaust.View attachment 967041View attachment 967042View attachment 967043View attachment 967044View attachment 967045View attachment 967046View attachment 967047View attachment 967048

This makes me excited. When are you guys gonna start doing jugs for others?

 

[vinnywv]

Already are. Those pictures are from a member on this sites saws. Not mine. If anyone is interested please let me know, ill get you in contact with my buddy.

 

[bob kern]

Gentlemen,

Paint stripping products... I have been playing with some citrus based spray on products with so-so results. I would in interested to hear what other Mac guys use to strip paint off the hard to get to crevices when prepping for a repaint. Thanks all!

Have you tried carb cleaner? Seems to bubble up paint if it stays on there very long at all.

 

[clint53]

The 82cc saws you mentioned above have many interchangeable parts. That being said parts for these saws are getting hard to find. Major parts like cylinders are almost unfindable. If you find one for sale make SURE the chrome in the cylinder is in good shape. A scored jug equals a parts saw or the cylinder sent off to US chrome for a rework for $280ish and 4 months wait for return.

Thanks. I knew the jugs were hard to find and it is very much a concern.
For that reason, I'm looking locally so I can remove the muffler and take a peek.

 

[clint53]

I feel like I see more of the pm800s than anything else.

Thanks very much. I really like the look of the 800 and 805.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Thanks. I knew the jugs were hard to find and it is very much a concern.
For that reason, I'm looking locally so I can remove the muffler and take a peek.

Can't just remove the muffler on these either. Its a fair old job. The carb easy enough but its bit odd for someone to watch you do that to their saw. You'll know if its healthy. Its fairly obvious on an 82. Besides Vinny's doing up cylinders so I wouldn't panic at all

Very worth it saws I hang off my for an 8 hour day happily. The 81 is my favourite. Than again my 800 mmmm that was nice the other week too

 

[clint53]

It's what is on my bench now. A D44 with a good piston, jug and bearings.
The carb kit will be here today. The last one to be found on the net.
I'll order the CR 6640 seals tomorrow when my local seal and bearing girl gets back from being off work.
I'm thinking about putting a 125-clutch drum with a 7 tooth 3/8 rim sprocket on it.
That rusty 404 chain and bar is giving me a fit. It is very near ready for the trash can.
I had to take the fuel tank off because the impulse passage was corroded shut from the crankcase into the carb.
This thing has more parts and crevices to clean than craters on the Moon, but it intrigues me, and I want to make it cut again.
I have a lot of cleaning to do and a bunch of gaskets to cut.





The red tint is the engine building lube I put on the bearings.


I've made one vid about it so far. More to come.


Thanks for looking.
Clint

 

[clint53]

Can't just remove the muffler on these either. Its a fair old job. The carb easy enough but its bit odd for someone to watch you do that to their saw. You'll know if its healthy. Its fairly obvious on an 82. Besides Vinny's doing up cylinders so I wouldn't panic at all

Very worth it saws I hang off my for an 8 hour day happily. The 81 is my favourite. Than again my 800 mmmm that was nice the other week too

Ah crap. It's been a while since I removed a muffler from a Mac. What was I thinking? You are correct.
I do have an endoscope tho.