McCulloch Chain Saws

[Brian Thacker]

The Time Serts are not hard at all. After getting used to them I prefer them over Heli coils. I have had several Heli Coils come out as I was changing a plug or taking a bolt out. I used them in 4 head bolts on my left motor (Johnson 225) down in Florida. 2 of them let go and warped a brand new head. I had another one let go on a customer race engine. Dropped the oil out on the track without the rider seeing it. Cost me a 1000.00 race engine and another head for my boat. Needless to say I kind of have a bad taste in my mouth with them. I bought the kit that had different sizes, had the drill bit, the tap and the tool used to set them. So I was using there products to install them with there factory directions to install and set them.
I have never had a Time Sert to give way except on my Husaberg where I had the insert way over torqued by a large margin. Did not have anything else to try so I put it in and said a prayer. A heli coil would have let go at half or less torque.
A heli coil is wire. The Time Sert is harden steel.

Brian

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

A heli coil is wire. The Time Sert is harden steel.

As mentioned, the HeliCoil spark plug inserts aren't helical, but rather steel inserts like a Time-Sert. I wouldn't use a helical insert for repairing spark plug threads.

 

[Brian Thacker]

As mentioned, the HeliCoil spark plug inserts aren't helical, but rather steel inserts like a Time-Sert. I wouldn't use a helical insert for repairing spark plug threads.

The most I have seen were wire.

Brian

 

[Xpropane]

Bought another power Mac 6 with the case $35.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

The most I have seen were wire.

That's actually the advantage of heli-coils over rigid inserts in many applications -- except repairing spark plug threads. LOL

I never miss an opportunity to post this when the subject comes up. A little long, but un-biased and covers the bases fairly well.

​

 

[Syncop8r]

That'll be the problem...

 

[vinnywv]

Yea that would be a hard srater there

 

[Syncop8r]

Perhaps there's enough spring left that I can curl the end and reuse it.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

I was thinking, "wow the plastic shield is still intact! Nice."
Spring probably has enough left.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Hmmm. Heat the snot out of it till it's red hot then wrap it around a nail with a pair o' pliers? Would probably want to quench it quickly for some hardness. Looks like enough there to work with.

 

[Toter]

Hey guys. I have an 80's vintage 10-10S with a Walbro carb. It's in good shape with good compression. Got the the saw running last year with a new coil/ ignition module, and carb rebuild. Saw has always leaked oil bad. Was cutting with it the other the other day for about a half hour. Saw starts to bog when giving it throttle, but was idling fine. If I set it down idling, it will slow and die in about 15-20 seconds. Took it back to the shop to check fuel filter. Fuel line was all cracked and brittle. Thought this was the source of the problem as when tank is half full, the cracked fuel line was exposed to air. So, new fuel line, gasket between carb spacer and case, new oil tank gasket, and air filter. Prime saw and it fires and runs. Warming it up it has a slight bog from idle, but continues on and revs fine. After about 5-7 min., saw wants to cut out when revving throttle, but continues to idle. Will eventually idle down then die. Hi and low screws are each 1 1/4 turns out. Can't really make it run long enough to fine tune. Getting frustrated. What am I missing here? Any help would be much appreciated.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Hey guys. I have an 80's vintage 10-10S with a Walbro carb. It's in good shape with good compression. Got the the saw running last year with a new coil/ ignition module, and carb rebuild. Saw has always leaked oil bad. Was cutting with it the other the other day for about a half hour. Saw starts to bog when giving it throttle, but was idling fine. If I set it down idling, it will slow and die in about 15-20 seconds. Took it back to the shop to check fuel filter. Fuel line was all cracked and brittle. Thought this was the source of the problem as when tank is half full, the cracked fuel line was exposed to air. So, new fuel line, gasket between carb spacer and case, new oil tank gasket, and air filter. Prime saw and it fires and runs. Warming it up it has a slight bog from idle, but continues on and revs fine. After about 5-7 min., saw wants to cut out when revving throttle, but continues to idle. Will eventually idle down then die. Hi and low screws are each 1 1/4 turns out. Can't really make it run long enough to fine tune. Getting frustrated. What am I missing here? Any help would be much appreciated.

Do the basics first. Carb kit be first thing now the line is sorted

 

[Syncop8r]

Do the basics first. Carb kit be first thing now the line is sorted

He did that last year.
Air leak? Seals?

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

He did that last year.

Awww Hahaha was reading quickly at work and its a Monday.

 

[vinnywv]

Id adjust the low jet out a bit or in a bit until it runs better. Leave the high jet alone. Just mess with the low and idle until it dials in. The low screw is closest to the engine. To start over. Run it in until it just feels resistance to a stopping point. Dont go too hard or it could damage. Nice and easy until it stops. Then open it up 1 full turn out. Start from there. See how that runs. Sounds like it needed opened a tad.

 

[vinnywv]

Awww Hahaha was reading quickly at work and its a Monday.

Getting paid to read this stuff.....priceless

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Getting paid to read this stuff.....priceless

Hahaha you know it

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Dragged something big n yellow home yesterday.
Needs a Mac sticker

 

[Toter]

Id adjust the low jet out a bit or in a bit until it runs better. Leave the high jet alone. Just mess with the low and idle until it dials in. The low screw is closest to the engine. To start over. Run it in until it just feels resistance to a stopping point. Dont go too hard or it could damage. Nice and easy until it stops. Then open it up 1 full turn out. Start from there. See how that runs. Sounds like it needed opened a tad.

I opened it about 1/4 turn. No joy. Almost acts like it has the problem once it heats up a little. When cold it will start and run. I can rev it and it's ok allbeit with a slight hesitation, that seems like lo screw tuning. Once it heats up some is when it wants to cut out under throttle. Then if I set it down, it will idle for 15-20 seconds and die. When I put the kit in it last year, the carb was clean with no blockages I could detect. Can someone educate me on the check valve under the welch plug. Not sure I removed that plug. Too long ago to remember.

 

[matt_lamb_160]

Have you tried it with the fuel cap loose?