If it is a 10-10s it has auto oiler in addition to manual oiler.
It somewhat depends on the wood, dry dusty and dirty wood has abrasive material in it , so you want to methodically pump as your sawing.I need a little advice, I was gifted a 10-10S with a bow bar and manual oiler. I used it for the first time today and love it, bucking logs on the ground is way easier with this, but realized I am not sure how much and when I need to use the manual oiler. My 2 999f saws have auto plus manual oilers, but I need to make sure I don't burn up the bow or chain on this one.
If it is a 10-10s it has auto oiler in addition to manual oiler.
The original owner told me there was no auto oiler, I believed him, but if you can tell me how to check, I will.
999's are pretty uncommon. Cool saws even if not yellow.I need a little advice, I was gifted a 10-10S with a bow bar and manual oiler. I used it for the first time today and love it, bucking logs on the ground is way easier with this, but realized I am not sure how much and when I need to use the manual oiler. My 2 999f saws have auto plus manual oilers, but I need to make sure I don't burn up the bow or chain on this one.
Krypton "Sunburst" yellowany recommendations to match mc yellow paint?
I use Ace brand tractor/safety yellowany recommendations to match mc yellow paint?
I like that full wrap handle. I wish mine had one.I put it in the background, started life as a $125 parts saw, I started with putting new bearings in it.View attachment 974762
Krypton....that explains the superman like strength of Mac saws.Kr
Krypton "Sunburst" yellow
Thanks, I think it is a home made job, didn't quite fit right, hits the bar cover at the bottom.I like that full wrap handle. I wish mine had one.
It's probably a Q-port exhaust, so no decomp necessary.another question on my PM800 it has the boss for the compression release and the threads but no opening, it is into the side of the cylinder wall I assume that drilling it is a no-go due to the plating?
another question on my PM800 it has the boss for the compression release and the threads but no opening, it is into the side of the cylinder wall I assume that drilling it is a no-go due to the plating?
It's probably a Q-port exhaust, so no decomp necessary.
And something to screw into it afterward.You can drill it if you like, just need a tiny sharp bit and a slow steady hand.
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