McCulloch Chain Saws

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just to let you mac owners know

i have ipls for almost all the mac models if any of you ever need any i have them dated from 1950 on some even dated back to the 40s
calvin

also have mac parts on hand if anyone ever needs any
I have a Mac 3.7 Eager Beaver, which I understand is also considered a ProMac 610. It is Model No: 600133-02, S/N: 12-036576. I am looking for Any/All info I can find on this saw including IPL & Service/Trouble shooting. I have a copy of a manual, but it is extremely hard to read. I am also seeking any helpful advice from any Mac "pros" out there with experience getting these running/adjusted properly. AS most of us have found out parts availability is getting more and more scarce for these, especially the carbs! Mine has what I believe to be the ZAMA C-25 Carb on it, & I think my Hard Starting, won't stay running problems might be in the Carb/Fuel Delivery. I want to get a carb gasket kit for it but am not sure of the order of installation on the gasket/pump parts as I am not familiar with these types & have not seen any instructions on them anyplace. I inherited it from my deceased B-I-Law & it has sentimental value to me so I want to get it up to it's former glory. I did replace the pull starter & cover, and cleaned everything but the carb appears to have been taken apart previously, so not sure if it was ever put back together in the right order. Would GREATLY appreciate any helpful advice or tips on this as well as any literature that might be available! I can be direct emailed at [email protected] by anyone that may have anything helpful to me. Thanks guys!
 
Thinning the herd, Mac 1-40, 130 PSI, runs on prime. The recoil on it is off a 250 and has some corrosion. The recoil for the 1-40 is very clean. Both come with the saw. The 250 has a full wrap that looks like it's a direct bolt over to the 1-40. I'd like to get $200 for the 140 and $50 for the full Wrap, all plus shipping. If no one is interested in the 1-40, I'd take $50 for the 250 with the full wrap, less the recoil, plus shipping.
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It ran so long on that prime I thought it was pulling from the tank. That was about the 4th-5th prime I did on it before I filled the tank about half way. Seemed to run a long time, just for a prime. The 250 is locked up. The 1-40 does have a lot of oily saw dust under the covers. I think that helped to preserve it, LOL
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I have a Mac 3.7 Eager Beaver,
Fondly known as a 'Cinder Block' or 'McBrick'. Millions of them out there in several iterations. Many interchangeable parts among models. Good luck with it.
 

Attachments

  • Super 610 PM 605 610 650 EB 3.7 June 87.pdf
    1.9 MB
I received an original Mac 28" bar and chain from N.C today.
Is there a miracle potion to remove all the pine tar?
I've spent more time trying to get the tar off the outside and cleaning the grove (The grove is good now.) than I did sharping and setting the drags on the chain.
I scraped off the tar first with a sharpened puddy knife first.
I've tried Acetone, Denatured Alcohol, PB plaster, Kroil Oil, etc. with Scotch Brite
The bar seems to have set idle for a long time. So maybe I can't get it all.
Thanks anyone.
Have you tried oven cleaner like Easy Off or similar? It may take a few applications but it should work, it works great on gummed up Circular saw blades.
You may have to set it in some kind of tray or container and cover it with the stuff to soak for some time though. On the saw blades it usually works fairly quick & easy.
 
I have a Mac 3.7 Eager Beaver, which I understand is also considered a ProMac 610. It is Model No: 600133-02, S/N: 12-036576. I am looking for Any/All info I can find on this saw including IPL & Service/Trouble shooting.
These may be helpful too...
 

Attachments

  • McCulloch - General Service Information - PM 600 Series.pdf
    6.9 MB
  • PM 605 610 OM.compressed.pdf
    7.6 MB
Mark,
Does someone make (commercially) some sort of adaptor plate to convert the 3/8 bars to 5/16? I was searching for this a few years back and it got lost in the shuffle of life lol. I just don't care for the springs, or having to "make something that will work" every time I do a bar swap or conversion. Thanks.
Max - those springs and "S" type adapters were the only options that McCulloch provided. I am not aware of any other approach being used to fit the large frame bars to the 10 Series mount.

Mark
 
Have you tried oven cleaner like Easy Off or similar? It may take a few applications but it should work, it works great on gummed up Circular saw blades.
You may have to set it in some kind of tray or container and cover it with the stuff to soak for some time though. On the saw blades it usually works fairly quick & easy.
I'll try that on the next one JP.
On rusty bars I put them in a bar scabbard and then fill with Evapo-Rust. I may try the same with over cleaner for the tar.
Thanks
 
Opinions on Points VS a Chip on an old Pro Mac 60. When I purchased it had a chip which surprised me. I would have never converted it and this is the only saw I have that has a chip. It has good spark but I wonder if I will get the same amount of power I would with what it was designed for reinstalled? Thanks for any opinions.
 
I like the points ignition set up as I can test each components individually to know they work.

That said, I have seen a few saws including Scott Mueller's (McC) 250 with a chip that run like mad.

Mark
I’ve chipped 4 of my 5 Macs, Super 250, 10-10, 700, 800, 1000 coil change also on this one. They all run great! I haven’t had one fail-yet
 
This was given to me today by Sam, the 87 year old retired logger that I got the truck load of Mac's from.
He said he made it for one big oak. It's 26" with chain to match.
Sam did care for long bars, log dogs and anti kick backs. He said when he got a new saw he would take the dogs and anti kick backs off and throw them away.
The truck load didn't have any dogs at all as far as I remember.
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He gave me this also.
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New points are still easy to get, why not buy new points instead of a chip if the old points are problematic (rare that they are)? Pays to test your condenser though!

Depends on the saw I guess (what it is missing) and if you can be bothered pulling the flywheel. I chipped my 3-10E that was missing parts, but I did get its bullfrog carb working, so that makes up for the chip!
 

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