McCulloch Chain Saws

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I did a preliminary checkup on the 640, the fuel tank was full of water but I didn't see any rot, the gear case was full of water but no visible rot, the crankcase was full of water but no visible rot, saw has impressive compression, a clean piston, and strong enough spark to jump start a car! It's looking like I'll have to split the fuel tank and gear case and I've started thinking, I'm going to be sending a 10-10 to Glock37 anyways and the 640 has a p!ss poor rattle can job that's sun faded as all getout, maybe I should send it off when I send off the 10-10......
 
I’m slowly learning more about the old Mccullochs but can someone with some more knowledge and experience share some of the pros and cons of these saws?

I have both sitting on the bench, and would like to know the strengths of these two. Both are projects, the 6-10 is less complete, the carb is in pieces and it’s missing air filter, gas cap, and needs a fuel line (it could need more, that’s just the first observations). The pro Mac 555 is complete except for a bar nut lol. The recoil spring isn’t very strong, leaves 8in of rope hanging out. I’ve tried to start it and so far no go.

What’s parts availability/interchangeability?

Any help appreciated!!
 

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I’m slowly learning more about the old Mccullochs but can someone with some more knowledge and experience share some of the pros and cons of these saws?

I have both sitting on the bench, and would like to know the strengths of these two. Both are projects, the 6-10 is less complete, the carb is in pieces and it’s missing air filter, gas cap, and needs a fuel line (it could need more, that’s just the first observations). The pro Mac 555 is complete except for a bar nut lol. The recoil spring isn’t very strong, leaves 8in of rope hanging out. I’ve tried to start it and so far no go.

What’s parts availability/interchangeability?

Any help appreciated!!

That's a long answer... I'll kick off something and others will no doubt jump in.

I'd start with the 555 given what you said. I'd assume that both need carb kits (readily available).
First thing, check for spark. If you've got spark, shoot some mix down the carb and see if it'll pop (signs of life).
Then move on to the recoil, if it sorta works now you probably just need to pull that black cover off with the three screws holding it on and wrap the cord back up properly on the pulley. Could be the spring is on the way out, but those are around in used, aftermarket and NOS.

If no spark, start there. Could be points need filing, bad or rubbed through wiring, etc.

As far as interchangeability, the 10 series (and the 55/555) share a LOT of common parts.
The 6-10 is (obviously) a right hand start, which is less common, but not a unicorn either.

Parts availability in general - depends. There are lots of aftermarket parts for common things like air filters and some people are 3d printing parts like the chip cage around the recoil. There are original (mostly used, sometimes new) parts all over feebay. Some places still have NOS parts, like M&D or Bob Johnson.

Get it/them running and see where you're at. If they're not living up to the task, could be they need rings and/or seals. Not a horrible job, but intimidating if you've never done it.

Also, in the air box there should be a metal tag with the model number. 600052d for example (7-10 model). You can use that to get an IPL that will detail all the correct parts for those saws.

Lastly, get your ears ready, they're LOUD. 🤘
 
Yes and no on the tags. Mac used a model numver of 6000... something. So yes on the 555. Thats a great saw at 57cc. Electronic ignition likely. Same engine as a pm55 and also a 10-10S. At 57cc. Lots of body parts interchange with 10-10 style saws.
Now the 6-10 is a different animal. One of my favorites. Light weight saw for a 70cc power house. As mentioned neither are rare but a 6-10 is not super common to find. And yes they sound like they mean business. Congrats. I prefer a 6-10 over a 555. Less weight. My 2 cents
 
I’m slowly learning more about the old Mccullochs but can someone with some more knowledge and experience share some of the pros and cons of these saws?

I have both sitting on the bench, and would like to know the strengths of these two. Both are projects, the 6-10 is less complete, the carb is in pieces and it’s missing air filter, gas cap, and needs a fuel line (it could need more, that’s just the first observations). The pro Mac 555 is complete except for a bar nut lol. The recoil spring isn’t very strong, leaves 8in of rope hanging out. I’ve tried to start it and so far no go.

What’s parts availability/interchangeability?

Any help appreciated!!
The 555 is mostly complete and has a tag so thats a known quantity. A really nice saw to use every day.
The 6-10 air box has extra holes drilled in it so some more pictures of it with the air cleaner cover off would help and the muffler side.
 
Repeat of my answer from the main forum.

"The 555 is more modern, LH starter is more natural to many people, 57 cc with pretty good porting.

The 6-10 is 70 cc and if the compression is similar will sorely spank the 555.

Bar & chain and clutch drums will swap, air filters are the same, everything else is fairly specialized to each saw."

I will add here that the carburetors and oil tank covers are probably interchangeable as well.

Mark
 
The 555 is mostly complete and has a tag so thats a known quantity. A really nice saw to use every day.
The 6-10 air box has extra holes drilled in it so some more pictures of it with the air cleaner cover off would help and the muffler side.
 

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On the teflon trick to seal gas line in tank housing on mcculoch 10-10 about how many wraps and do you need seal-all too? thanks
 
Ok guys, help me figure out this 5-10. About a year ago I had a problem with it having intermittent loss of spark. Fast-forward to last week. I finally had some time to mess with it. I literally changed the entire ignition system. Ditched the points for a chip, used a coil and flywheel from the SP81 I blew up last summer. Got it running, tuned it in the shop. A couple days later I take it to the wood pile. It fires right up, I make 2 cuts, it is way too rich so I set it on a log still running and proceed to remove the air cleaner lid. I am tuning the hi screw and free revving it and it shuts of like I hit the kill switch. Won't restart so I go put it.on the bench.
I had a chance to look at it last night, once in a blue moon it will throw a spark but mostly no spark. I unhooked the kill switch, same result. Do you guys think my module went out????? Just seems really weird that after swapping all that stuff I still have a similar problem. I would say 90% of my Macs are running these same modules trouble free.
I have another new one, probably gonna just swap it and see.
 
Ok guys, help me figure out this 5-10. About a year ago I had a problem with it having intermittent loss of spark. Fast-forward to last week. I finally had some time to mess with it. I literally changed the entire ignition system. Ditched the points for a chip, used a coil and flywheel from the SP81 I blew up last summer. Got it running, tuned it in the shop. A couple days later I take it to the wood pile. It fires right up, I make 2 cuts, it is way too rich so I set it on a log still running and proceed to remove the air cleaner lid. I am tuning the hi screw and free revving it and it shuts of like I hit the kill switch. Won't restart so I go put it.on the bench.
I had a chance to look at it last night, once in a blue moon it will throw a spark but mostly no spark. I unhooked the kill switch, same result. Do you guys think my module went out????? Just seems really weird that after swapping all that stuff I still have a similar problem. I would say 90% of my Macs are running these same modules trouble free.
I have another new one, probably gonna just swap it and see.
This may sound stupid..I got a chipped 125 that did the same thing. The person who chipped it previous owner) crimped a connection. The wire was all but one strand from being cut in two at the crimp site. Fixed it issue gone. I was ready to replace the chip, then the coil. Check over the chip connections real good for connectivity before you dig deeper.
 
Kevin,I've had coil wires that looked good turn out to be faulty.The very first 10-10 that I worked on was chipped & it'd have great blue spark on one pull & nothing the next.This saw drove me batty.One day I picked up the saw & pulled it over & I could hear the spark snapping.I pulled the coil off & found the plug wire had worn through from vibrations over the yrs.because of how Mac had it routed - between the cylinder fins.I put a different coil on the saw & routed the plug wire on the outside of the saw & put points & condenser back in & had a good running saw.
In short,scrutinize every wire & connection like Max & Vinny have stated.
 
I got this PM 700 going today. It will have a good home soon. As many of you folks know I am partial to the 82cc 10 series, however the 70cc saws have grown on me. I find myself throwing one in the truck all the time as a just in case saw. This one has some mag rot on the bottom of the recoil cover but is in over all good shape. Looks to be one of the later 700's.Mac PM 700 top.jpgMax PM 700 recoil side.jpg
 
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