McCulloch Chain Saws

[Rocker59]

Maybe it could be a check valve issue

I believe there are two thicknesses of check valves also (fiber and metal). Had a similar issue with my SP80 when I built it from parts.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Yeah I tried the metal one first in the 81 build and it was a no-go , sometimes it was to hard to push or no oil. I pulled a used fiber one from another parts pump and it definitely worked, the auto oiler is alittle stingey but gets the job done.
Just such a PITA to pull the tank on those.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Guess I'm pulling the tank

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Guess I'm pulling the tank

Well yeah , probably easier to get the auto oiler out also.

 

[edju1958]

Jethro,I'm with Ira on the check valve.Sometimes they get a bit sticky from old oil.Try running some straight fuel oil (diesel),or kerosene through the system.Let it set with that in it for a while too.

As for your points "cleaning",I don't think you did such a good job as I remember.I don't know why you're so deathly afraid of pulling them right out to clean them.After all,you've done rings,pistons,& God knows what else.Just pull them out,clean them up good with 220 grit emery cloth & put them back in,easy--peasy.I'm sure you must have a feeler gauge?

 

[heimannm]

I've had many problems with the check valves, I have determined (I believe so anyway) that you have to use the thin aluminum check valve when the oil line has the thick flange, and thicker phenolic check valve when the oil line has the thinner flange.

It might be worth checking the check valve in the automatic pump as well. On some pump you can take the screw out of the top and remove the spring and ball for a good cleaning. On others you just have to shoot some carburetor or brake cleaner through it and keep testing. I always test them off the saw by working the piston manually to make sure the oil goes down one hole and back out the other.



Mark

 

[super44]

My gloves are starting to think this is their home.

 

[Syncop8r]

My resurrected PM700 isn't going yet. There doesn't appear to be any spark. I disconnected the wire from the switch to the coil, still no spark so I suspect that is where the problem lies. I put a multimeter across both ends and there doesn't seem to be continuity (my knowledge on using one is somewhat limited).

My 610 hasn't been turning off lately (I have been using choke to kill it) and I found the same wire had come off at the terminal so that was an easy fix.
Stupid reliable brick. I want my 10-series saws to be my go-to ones!

 

[Syncop8r]

I disconnected the wire from the switch to the coil, still no spark so I suspect that is where the problem lies.

No wait, that means the coil is the problem, right?

 

[Woodslasher]

No wait, that means the coil is the problem, right?

Correct, if you've isolated the coil then the coil (or points/condenser if so equipped) is the problem.

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Thanks for the oiler thoughts and help guys. I've got a few I can swap around n sus it out. Just need to find time.
Building a winch bar for my zook on Saturday. Bike racing on Sunday.
Night class on Tuesday n Thursday.
Have my 6 year old the rest of the time.
Garage is a pig sty.
Firewood to cut.
Jet boat needs hull repairs and a big repair in the jet unit for summer.

The list goes on

But what's a man without projects

 

[Syncop8r]

Oh yeah and the airbox was filling with fuel with all the tipping on it's side.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Oh yeah and the airbox was filling with fuel with all the tipping on it's side.

So maybe a tank gasket also?
You know if you look at where the wire for the plug goes out how many guys have put their foot on it to start that saw? It could be pulled out from the coil or the tension spring that goes on the plug could be pulled out under the plug boot.
Take your coil off and check the lead wire ( plug wire) by pulling the boot back and wiggle it at the coil connection.

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Thanks for the oiler thoughts and help guys. I've got a few I can swap around n sus it out. Just need to find time.
Building a winch bar for my zook on Saturday. Bike racing on Sunday.
Night class on Tuesday n Thursday.
Have my 6 year old the rest of the time.
Garage is a pig sty.
Firewood to cut.
Jet boat needs hull repairs and a big repair in the jet unit for summer.
View attachment 1015435
The list goes on

But what's a man without projects

Life gets busy when your living it!
You'll get around to it.

 

[Syncop8r]

You know if you look at where the wire for the plug goes out how many guys have put their foot on it to start that saw? It could be pulled out from the coil or the tension spring that goes on the plug could be pulled out under the plug boot.
Take your coil off and check the lead wire ( plug wire) by pulling the boot back and wiggle it at the coil connection.

I made that wire myself as it didn't have one, I'm hoping it's not the problem as that would mean I failed!

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

I made that wire myself as it didn't have one, I'm hoping it's not the problem as that would mean I failed!

That's annoying. Wish I kept all my 610s now could of sent you up 1 of those coils. I may have a pm10-10 coil somewhere but not a full hundy percent though

 

[Syncop8r]

That's annoying. Wish I kept all my 610s now could of sent you up 1 of those coils. I may have a pm10-10 coil somewhere but not a full hundy percent though

Hmmm. If they're the same I have a couple of parts 610s I could raid for coils.

Is there a way of testing coils out of the saw?

 

[Jethro 2t sniffer]

Just need to shorten the plug lead up is all. I'd just throw 1 on they are generally pretty reliable

 

[edju1958]

Well,Ira & Vinny with their chip problems,you're not alone.Today I pulled the flywheel off my PM10-10 to put a newer condenser in & got a big surprise.There was no condenser,it was chipped.I don't know if this had anything to do with it,but instead of running a wire from the chip directly to the coil,they ran it to where the little bolt holds the points in the points box (not the 2 screws for adjusting the points),then they ran the line from there to the coil.I'd have liked to have the points set up,but I didn't have a wire to go to the coil from the points stud or a felt for lubing the cam.I had to leave my good chip on it.
I had to put my chip on it this past spring because after the saw got warmed up it'd lose power & then die.After I put the new chip in it it ran like a new saw.

 

[Woodslasher]