I hosted it on youtube. hope that wasn't a mistake. never posted on there before.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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I checked the size on one of them (#3) and it's only 39KB.
Good for you sir !!
I think anything over 30 seconds on ur phone has issues posting , should be able to do less than that without problems just attach from phone file .
That's one nice looking saw! Would look good in my shed!! Lol
I can hear the reed in the muffler chattering!! Sounds great on your video. I kept it also on that same sp70 of mine.
I assume the reed in the muffler is there to create backpressure similar to the big pipes on 2 stroke dirt bikes. someone correct me if I'm wrong.
the starter cord on this saw seems to be short. when I start it cold, and it fires it rips the handle out of my hand. I have 2 nice little cuts on the back of my hand and bled all over the saw lol. I also don't think the decomp is working. does anyone know how long the starter cord should be?
Sounds like your timing is a little bit advanced?
I was wondering about that. I put the piston at TDC and set the point gap at .019.
With all things old there's always a little play in the flywheel to crankshaft key.
If a Mac starts biting I reset the flywheel by loosening up the nut and unstick the flywheel. The I rotate the piston up on compression (clockwise ,******* timing) and retorque the flywheel nut.
I'm sure if you loosen it up and rotate the flywheel you'll probably feel a little bump,bump on the key going c-cc back and forth.
I had to do this to my PM60 as it was quite hungry for finger sandwiches!
If a Mac starts biting I reset the flywheel by loosening up the nut and unstick the flywheel. The I rotate the piston up on compression (clockwise ,******* timing) and retorque the flywheel nut.
I'm sure if you loosen it up and rotate the flywheel you'll probably feel a little bump,bump on the key going c-cc back and forth.
I had to do this to my PM60 as it was quite hungry for finger sandwiches!
Thats a pretty sweet guage!
I think that should be .018 at 26 degrees BTDC.
42" on the rope.
edit: Beat me to it, Ira.
42" on the rope.
edit: Beat me to it, Ira.
Ok I thought it was a long starter cord too! I just pull 1 and a half off a reel of true blue in arms length.
Depends on which reference you use, but they seem to start at 42" on the 10 series and trim the excess at the handle when finished with the pre-tensioning and however many wraps it takes to fill the pulley. An arm's length sounds pretty close. LOL
The timing thing is an interesting read too if you root through all the ways they've developed and recommended. Getting up on the lobe and tightening to .018 is probably pretty close to the Merc-o-Tronic and timing light method...., give or take. The little tools for adjusting are handy to have.
The timing thing is an interesting read too if you root through all the ways they've developed and recommended. Getting up on the lobe and tightening to .018 is probably pretty close to the Merc-o-Tronic and timing light method...., give or take. The little tools for adjusting are handy to have.
After encountering some odd issues with my CP125, I decided to leave it and fix the no-spark issue on the SP125 with a chip. While I still need to get it tuned right and not just rich 'n' runnable, it'll at least fire up now.
Quick and dirty feeler gauge method for 10 Series points setting and adjusting...
a few decades ago, one of my buds was manager of a local Suzuki shop and gave that to me.
I saw this timing drill in the service manual. I had a really nice old, chromed metal craftsman timing light I bought in the seventies and haven't used it since the eighties. tore my shop apart looking for it last week and it appears to be gone. no idea where it went. so, I did this without one. maybe I should buy a cheap timing light and follow this drill?
