Thanks Mark - looks like I (hopefully) only have one check valve to replace then.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
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OK, (L-R) Truss Head, Pan Head, Fillister Head?
Which would make them (L-R) bottom points (with washer), top points, condenser (with nut).
I promise I won't mix them up again.
Yes, the fillister with nut is likelu the manual oil pump. The condenser doesnt utilze a nut. Not to say it wasnt stripped out and a nut used though.
You can get a sheet of felt a nearly any hobby store. It'll be crafty!Thanks guys.
I'll put the one felt washer I have between the teflon ones and just have to live without the felt one behind the points box.
I was wondering if there was anything in the plumbing department of my local hardware store that might suffice.
Captain11
New Member
Mark, I'm sure this has been mentioned but after searching through hundreds of pages, I'm lost. My cap check valves have since dissolved.
Do you know what duck bill valve fits a Pro Mac 10-10 bar oil cap?
The IPL shows a McCulloch part number 86402. The remains of the "flange" piece was in place and measured roughly 5mm. I've narrowed down the gas cap vent to Oregon 07-004/Stens 610345/Homelite 69541 or the longer Poulan 530026119 from a photo you posted!
Can I assume the longer Poulan type will not work in the bar oil cap? Some no name Amazon items have reviews where they don't hold up to fuel or oil and turn to goo. Rather than waste time and $ on the wrong parts, what have you found that works?
Any help is greatly appreciated!!
The only ones that I am aware of that actually fit the space available are the OEM type 63041/86402 and they are very hard to find. The red Homelite valves can be made to work if you drill the retainer (plastic disc) to 5/32".
It is important to keep the hole exactly in the center so it will properly align with the duckbill valve.
Mark
It is important to keep the hole exactly in the center so it will properly align with the duckbill valve.
Mark
Captain11
New Member
Thank you for the insight!
Mark,
Every new rendition of your sawdust guard is a step forward towards an OE look. I believe yours are more durable than OEM.
Ron
Every new rendition of your sawdust guard is a step forward towards an OE look. I believe yours are more durable than OEM.
Ron
I haven't been here in months. Summertime is not a good chainsaw time for me also my wife, son and I are building a new shop.
I figured someone here would enjoy this.
I figured someone here would enjoy this.
I was sorting/organizing the drawers with sharpening supplies last week (files, guides, file-o-plates, etc.) and came across a bag with a variety of file plates with your name on it Clint, so they are still here waiting for you...
On that subject, if anyone is in need of 1/8", 3/16", or 1/4" round files, I have a great surplus. Many are unbranded and some are a bit rusty from improper storage over the years but all are NOS.
Mark
On that subject, if anyone is in need of 1/8", 3/16", or 1/4" round files, I have a great surplus. Many are unbranded and some are a bit rusty from improper storage over the years but all are NOS.
Mark
I was the winner of a 5-10A on Feebay last night for $36.The saw looks to be in good shape,but I know nothing about the mechanics of it.The saw is complete & has a Walbro SDC carb.I should have it by week's end,weather pending (we're supposed to get slammed with up to 2 ft.of snow by Sun.).
I forgot to mention that originally the seller had this saw listed for $45 or MO.I offered him $40 & he countered with $50.Next thing was he relisted it for 99 cents.I made 2 bids,one for the 99 cents,the other fgor $40.It never made it to the $40.I guess he should've accepted my first offer.
I forgot to mention that originally the seller had this saw listed for $45 or MO.I offered him $40 & he countered with $50.Next thing was he relisted it for 99 cents.I made 2 bids,one for the 99 cents,the other fgor $40.It never made it to the $40.I guess he should've accepted my first offer.
With the DE8200 complete, I moved on to a PM10-10 I acquired with the assortment of saws from my older brother.
I looked pretty clean so I figured a partial tear down, clean it up, replace bits as needed, and put it up on the "For Sale" shelf.
The first thing you notice is the non-standard spike...I believe this is standard issue for the 33/35/39 model saws.
This is the second in two weeks with the spring clip that is intended to secure the automatic oil pump in place just flopping loose.
I started the tear down for cleaning.
I kept going further on the tear down until it was just a short block. Everything cleaned up pretty nicely, the saw was supposedly a good runner before I got it, but I thought I'd pressure test just to make sure everything was copacetic.
PTO side seal was leaking...
Sorry about that, keyboard quit working on me. Crankcase was leaking too...
While I was at it I thought I'd confirm my theory about the flange on the oil pick up line and the disc check valve in the manual oiler.
Thick flange on the oil line...
Thin disc for the manual pump check valve.
Mark
I looked pretty clean so I figured a partial tear down, clean it up, replace bits as needed, and put it up on the "For Sale" shelf.
The first thing you notice is the non-standard spike...I believe this is standard issue for the 33/35/39 model saws.
This is the second in two weeks with the spring clip that is intended to secure the automatic oil pump in place just flopping loose.
I started the tear down for cleaning.
I kept going further on the tear down until it was just a short block. Everything cleaned up pretty nicely, the saw was supposedly a good runner before I got it, but I thought I'd pressure test just to make sure everything was copacetic.
PTO side seal was leaking...
Sorry about that, keyboard quit working on me. Crankcase was leaking too...
While I was at it I thought I'd confirm my theory about the flange on the oil pick up line and the disc check valve in the manual oiler.
Thick flange on the oil line...
Thin disc for the manual pump check valve.
Mark
What units are these in please Mark? Thousandths of an inch?
That particular one is roughly 0.032" or 1/32" (.82 mm +/-)
The phenolic disc is a little more that twice that thickness at 0.070"
The thinner flange on the oil hose is roughly 0.050" thick.
Either disc, by the way, is about 0.310" in diameter.
Mark
The phenolic disc is a little more that twice that thickness at 0.070"
The thinner flange on the oil hose is roughly 0.050" thick.
Either disc, by the way, is about 0.310" in diameter.
Mark
Gre
Great job Ed! Rescued another one.
Yeah Ira,this one was in pretty rough shape,it took 2 saws to make this one a runner again.I'll be using the original short block to build yet another.
Cleaned up nicely, starts and run well. Not sure I'll ever need to use it...
If it warms up a bit one day I'll look around in the attic of the garage to see if I have that top cover / muffler shield. I think it shares that part with a couple of string trimmers.
Mark
Turned out nice ed.
