McCulloch Chain Saws

[Poodle_Bruce]

Well, I fired the parts cannon at the 10-10 and I still have an issue. It runs worse than before i started fixing on it! Being new to chainsaw repair, I am certain I did something wrong. I just don't know what it is. I am probably just bad at adjusting the carb, but I would like to rule out an air leak.

I don't have any pressure / vacuum testing equipment, but I am happy to add to the tool collection. Any recommendations?

I could always go down the street to the saw shop but that feels like admitting defeat...

 

[flatsfisher]

MityVac is the best. if you get the right model it will test pressure and vacuum.

 

[flatsfisher]

there are also squeeze bulb types that are cheaper but will only test pressure. google around.

 

[flatsfisher]

if you test pressure and/or vacuum you'll need to block off the exhaust port and block/test at the intake port.

 

[flatsfisher]

homemade exhaust port block off on the left, intake on the right. I use pieces of rubber inner tube under the blocks as seals.

 

[flatsfisher]

you can also pressure test your carb.

 

[Syncop8r]

I took a look at the MM sticky & found there are only 64 pages to go through,Lol.

The search function is your friend.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

MityVac 8500 and don't look back.

You can also use the plug adapter approach as an insertion location as well as the impulse line on saws that have them..., like the 028 pictured above which would fail with the current configuration due to the wide open impulse line. The objective is to test the integrity of both the entire intake assembly and the crankcase simultaneously and go from there. 10 series Macs use very basic test setups.

​

 

[edju1958]

The search function is your friend.

No it's not,I could never get it to work for me.

 

[flatsfisher]

the impulse line for the 028 above was plugged when the actual test was done. didn't have a photo of that stage. geez. you can also block off the intake completely and use the impulse line to do the test, but I didn't mention that as he is doing a 10-10.

 

[edju1958]

I finally got the carb back on the PM55 today,but can't fire it up due to pouring rain here.I don't like firing up a saw in the garage even with the overhead door open.Maybe tomorrow if it lets up.

 

[PogoInTheWoods]

Plug insert adapter for rigid frame 10 series. Use the carb and muffler as block offs over pieces of inner tube or whatever. Doesn't get any more basic. Is a handy approach for various saws w/o accessible impulse line when the carb itself is easy to use for the block off plate.

Believe it or not, Gorilla tape works pretty well for sealing intake and exhaust ports with clean surfaces, too. I've taken a pretty good ribbing in the past for it. Also done a boat load of leak tests with it.

​

 

[Syncop8r]

Into it then...

 

[Syncop8r]

I might be missing a valve or two?
As well as the screws that secure the manual oiler to the block.

 

[vinnywv]

Just one valve. Little disc check is missing.

 

[heimannm]

The disc is not very large, sometimes they stick in the manual pump when you take it off and drop out somewhere. Older saws had the phenolic one, newer had the aluminum. The flange on the oil line changed thickness over the years and it is my experience that you have to use the phenolic check valve with the thinner flange oil lines, and the aluminum check valve with the thicker flange oil lines but I cannot say this with absolute certainty.



They are .305" / 7.75 mm diameter if you have to find a substitute.

Mark

 

[bob kern]

Today I pulled the oil tank off the E.B.2.1 to see if all was the way it should be - spring in the oil line,a free & clear pick up,& no kink or breaks in the line,& all was good.The problem must be in the pump,possibly a stuck check valve.I know nothing about these oil pumps & would greatly appreciate some help.

If you need a coil for that let me know. I may have one.

 

[edju1958]

If you need a coil for that let me know. I may have one.

Thanks Bob! I may need one for my next PM55.

 

[Syncop8r]

The disc is not very large, sometimes they stick in the manual pump when you take it off and drop out somewhere. Older saws had the phenolic one, newer had the aluminum. The flange on the oil line changed thickness over the years and it is my experience that you have to use the phenolic check valve with the thinner flange oil lines, and the aluminum check valve with the thicker flange oil lines but I cannot say this with absolute certainty.

View attachment 1031554

They are .305" / 7.75 mm diameter if you have to find a substitute.

Mark

Thanks Mark, yes I will have to find a substitute - looks like about 1mm thick?
Your 10-10 oiler thread https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/mcculloch-10-series-oiler.249620/ also mentions a check valve on the "outlet side" - where is this?

 

[Vtrombly]

Well, I fired the parts cannon at the 10-10 and I still have an issue. It runs worse than before i started fixing on it! Being new to chainsaw repair, I am certain I did something wrong. I just don't know what it is. I am probably just bad at adjusting the carb, but I would like to rule out an air leak.

I don't have any pressure / vacuum testing equipment, but I am happy to add to the tool collection. Any recommendations?

I could always go down the street to the saw shop but that feels like admitting defeat...

If you dont have the means to pressure Vac test it what you can do if you get it started take carb spray and spray around where the carb gasket is and around the flywheel or wherever could be an air leak without obviously getting it in the carb throat if the rpm changes on any of those other areas you have an air leak at those locations.