I found the propblem as to why it was smoking so much.Thios is something that I don't understand,I always use a fuel stabilizer so the fuel will not go bad & yet the fuel in the 310 was bad.I dumped out the old fuel & put in fresh fuel,restarted the saw & it cleared up very quickly.I had to open the hi needle about 1/4 turn & then it throttled up very nicely.No more smoking 310.
McCulloch Chain Saws
- Thread starter Bruce Hopf
- Start date
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Fuel stabilizer doesn't work forever. I think Sta-bil lists something like "up to 24 months". I probably wouldn't trust it past a year since it's "up to" 24 months.
I picked up a few Mac bars today, including a big, beautiful, low-use bar Mac-branded bar that will look pretty good on my 640. I don't know the overall length, but the Oregon one is a 30" listed length.
I don't use Stabil,I found out yrs.ago that it isn't worth a damn in 2 cycle mix.I've had good luck with Lucas & Startron & have never had a problem with it.The only thing that might've happened last yr.was I ran out of stabilizer & figured it wouldn't matter since I was planning on using the fuel immediately anyway.Obviously that didn't happen.Everyone has their own theories about what to do with fuel,how to mix it at what ratio,what brand of 2 cycle mix to use,etc.I've found what works best for me & I'm sticking with it.
Dan - I'm a little "green" with envy...
Mark
Mark
Good match for the 125,
Drop your depth gauges to 0.040 or 0.050 and hand on tight.
Mark
Mark
And get it dirty?
I think that will do ,
Glad you found one!
Think he'll hold it for me till morning?
Today my son & I pruned trees in our yard,it took 2 hrs.We only had 2 saws break down on us.First the E.B.2.1 started running at a very high idle.I thought it had an air leak due to a bad crank seal,but at the lunch break I had a look at the carb.I saw right away what the problem was - the 2 screws that hold the choke assembly & the carb on had backed out almost completely.I tightened them backup & the saw ran like a champ again.While the E.B.2.1 was down we went to the 3816.That saw ran like crap.I guess I'll have to pull the carb for a rebuild.
After the pruning was out of the way we decided to go out cutting wood for the 1st time this yr.We took 5 saws with us - PM700,Timber Bear,Super 10-10,E.B.2.1,& Stihl MS250.We dropped an ash tree that was Y'd.The 1st section dropped as planned,but the Timber Bear quit after 7 or 8 cuts,no spark.The 2nd section dropped right into a small red oak that held the ash from falling.My son is pretty good at figuring things out,so he dropped the red oak & had to get out of Dodge real quick when it started to fall.We noticed there were a couple screws missing on the PM700 recoil,I'll have to see if I have them on hand here.The Super 10-10 developed a clutch problem,I'll pull that apart tomorrow to have a look.It looks like the switch wire got pinched & severed on the Timber Bear,but it was grounding out on the frame/crankcase.
After the pruning was out of the way we decided to go out cutting wood for the 1st time this yr.We took 5 saws with us - PM700,Timber Bear,Super 10-10,E.B.2.1,& Stihl MS250.We dropped an ash tree that was Y'd.The 1st section dropped as planned,but the Timber Bear quit after 7 or 8 cuts,no spark.The 2nd section dropped right into a small red oak that held the ash from falling.My son is pretty good at figuring things out,so he dropped the red oak & had to get out of Dodge real quick when it started to fall.We noticed there were a couple screws missing on the PM700 recoil,I'll have to see if I have them on hand here.The Super 10-10 developed a clutch problem,I'll pull that apart tomorrow to have a look.It looks like the switch wire got pinched & severed on the Timber Bear,but it was grounding out on the frame/crankcase.
I've just been bucking firewood and my trigger finger kept getting shocked if it got too close to the spark plug.
That and I've now got 610-arm.
That and I've now got 610-arm.
Got a crack in the spatk plug boot. They arent too difficult to change out really.
Yeah they are! LOL
Out of curiosity, is anyone using the crimp down spark plug terminal clips instead of the archaic pierced springs? Seems like if they're good enough for race cars they'd work for chain saws -- and be much easier to install than what we otherwise wrestle with.
Yeah, yeah..., some of you replace the spring style all the time and have never had a problem getting the boots back on. I usually end up bleeding.
Out of curiosity, is anyone using the crimp down spark plug terminal clips instead of the archaic pierced springs? Seems like if they're good enough for race cars they'd work for chain saws -- and be much easier to install than what we otherwise wrestle with.
Yeah, yeah..., some of you replace the spring style all the time and have never had a problem getting the boots back on. I usually end up bleeding.
I do Poge , I have alot of them from my hotrod builds left over, they used to git you extras in the accel kit.
I use some spray silicone lubricant to aid in sliding the boot over the connector. 7mm aren't too bad, some of the 5mm ones are a struggle for the full size connectors.
The crimp on connectors would only help with the "wobble", you still have to get the boot to slide over the connector.
Mark
The crimp on connectors would only help with the "wobble", you still have to get the boot to slide over the connector.
Mark
I've just been bucking firewood and my trigger finger kept getting shocked if it got too close to the spark plug.
That and I've now got 610-arm.
Shockers make great loaner saws. They won't come back to borrow again.
I use dielectric grease to slide the boot over the terminal clamp. And depending on the style of boot and the actual condition of the spring clamp, I'll slide the boot onto the wire before trying to punch that damned pin through the insulation (hoping I make contact with the conductor). That approach can sometimes assist with keeping the pin in place while getting the clamp into the boot.
Otherwise, a crimped terminal clamp would certainly seem to provide much stronger contact with both the wire and the conductor itself, not to mention being much less prone to coming loose while installing the boot from either direction.
Just seems like a logical replacement choice (and upgrade)) for a saw needing a plug lead repair.
Otherwise, a crimped terminal clamp would certainly seem to provide much stronger contact with both the wire and the conductor itself, not to mention being much less prone to coming loose while installing the boot from either direction.
Just seems like a logical replacement choice (and upgrade)) for a saw needing a plug lead repair.
