McCulloch Chain Saws

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Hy
1-61 is a gear drive, so you would need some kind of adapter to go from the straight, 19/32" diameter output shaft to a spline so you can use standard rim type sprockets. Maybe Vinny was just priming the pump since he had some spline adapters made...

You can always get a new chain to agree with your current set up. .404 chain is still pretty readily available but you may have to go beyond a local shop that only stocks premade loops for the saws they currently sell. If your sprocket is shot, I have a good supply of .404 8T sprockets for the gear drive saws available.

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Flywheel knockers & piston stops.

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Mark

Holy cow i have forgotten about that!! I do have a few of those. I have been very busy with another project lately. I havent messed with any saws for quite sometime. I was fortunate enough to be able to co.e across an older pickup truck that was affordable. Wanted one for many years. The timing and availability aligned so i jumped. It has consumed most of my time off. For those wondering its a 1950 chevy 3600.
 
OK,as I said earlier,I can't seem to find the 4 bolts needed for holding the oil tank onto the engine on a PM610.The IPL says it uses a M6.3-24 bolt.Even for being metric that seems a bit odd.Does anyone here have any they'd like to unload?
 
OK,as I said earlier,I can't seem to find the 4 bolts needed for holding the oil tank onto the engine on a PM610.The IPL says it uses a M6.3-24 bolt.Even for being metric that seems a bit odd.Does anyone here have any they'd like to unload?
Jeeze Mac really missed the whole point of metric with 6.3 lol. Can't help ya Ed
 
What’s everyone’s opinion on this 1-72 piston? I cleaned it up with some scotch brite and 800 grit sandpaper. The marks on the skirts aren’t very big. My concern is the. Top of the piston and a few of the small dents and dings around the rim of the top. My tentative plan right now is to put new rings on it and clean up the cylinder a bit. The cylinder doesn’t look bad, just needs a cleaning. I’m only planning to cut with the saw every now and then, pretty sparinglyDA75D88F-81F5-400A-B15D-F4B6C409FEAA.jpegDA75D88F-81F5-400A-B15D-F4B6C409FEAA.jpegDC1029F0-1309-41CE-8A56-437834C0C177.jpeg720A20C0-DDB5-435A-A24B-7B03998B0DED.jpeg401930A8-099F-4378-98E6-39EDB20365F1.jpeg712A085B-EE68-4CA6-B666-D4154708DEBB.jpeg
 
Idaho - Check you PM.

Ed - M6.3x24 hex head screws are a bit unusual, check you PM.

Razor - the first edition 10-10 RH start saws were manual oiler only with a check valve assembly where the automatic oiler sets.

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Breckinridge - There was/is not an exact modern match for the old McCulloch large frame bar mount. That said, many older saws had the same bar mount pattern and the bar from most any older large Homelite, Remington, or even Mono saw will work or can be made to work pretty easily. I will try to remember to look in the attic to see if I have any 62 DL loops of 1/2" pitch but you need to confirm the gauge (thickness of the drive link). Most 1/2" pitch would have been .058 or .063". Might be easier to just go ahead and convert to the .404...still need to know the gauge of the bar and the exact length to provide a suitable .404 chain.

Mark
 
Piston will be just fine. The rings are what seals the pressure in. New rings and its a runner for many more years like that. Just dont go crazy on the cylinder.
I’m only cleaning some gunk off the inside of the cylinder, a quick scotch brite and I’m letting it be
 
Guy near me is selling a running 250 along with a second parts saw for $100. I might have just missed the deal but he said he would call if it fell through.

Now back to my 1-61... How the heck do I get the flywheel and clutch off. I got the nuts off both sides without breaking anything. Service manual shows a three hole puller for the flywheel, just says "use a puller" for the clutch. Like a gear puller, or the threaded puller shown for the flywheel? I put a gear puller on the clutch side but it doesn't seem right. I feel like I am going to damage the bell.
Now as for the flywheel side, is this a puller I can source online, or can I make one? I bet Mark has the p/n and everything but if I can make one I will go that route. I have a three day weekend coming up and I was hoping to have everything stripped down so I could dunk it in the parts washer at work tomorrow.
If I recall right, that parts saw is a Super 550. If so, it should be better than the 250.
 
Just bought a 1-72 pho does anyone know what the bar mount is? Also anyone with experience repairing and trouble shooting them. Says air vane governor 🤷. This is my first yellow magnesium purchase so I'm kinda out of my comfort zone. Thanks and appreciation in advance 🙂
Hit up the Mcculloch thread , 👍
 
Just bought a 1-72 pho does anyone know what the bar mount is? Also anyone with experience repairing and trouble shooting them. Says air vane governor 🤷. This is my first yellow magnesium purchase so I'm kinda out of my comfort zone. Thanks and appreciation in advance 🙂
Your already here , Lol 😆
 
As mentioned above...there was/is not an exact modern match for the old McCulloch large frame bar mount. That said, many older saws had the same bar mount pattern and the bar from most any older large Homelite, Remington, or even Mono saw will work or can be made to work pretty easily.

The air vane itself is under the flywheel cover and connects with a shaft through the cover to an arm in the airbox that is linked to the throttle. The throttle rod is not hard connected to the arm on the throttle shaft, but merely allows the throttle to move open (spring on the governor) when the trigger is pulled. As the engine speeds up the air flowing across the vane will push the throttle closed.

Mark
 

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